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11-12-2017, 05:59 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 49
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Having gear slipping out of the rail on one rail. Top rail on the rear. Have trip trax system on 2014 33sw. No broken teeth yet. All other rails are working fine. Planning on shimming the one rail by loosening the screws and sliding 1/8 inch aluminum plate between the rail and slide wall. Makes sense that this will help the gears engage the rail better. Any additional thoughts. BD
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11-13-2017, 06:55 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 108
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Slide roller on each side of ref
There is an adjustable roller on each side of the ref. In my case the slide was dragging the floor and motors would not move it. My rollers were loose as they had not been installed correctly, screws did not attach to the metal frame. The rollers can be reached from inside the coach.
The slide controller for the front motor went out on mine, getting the new controller today. Still having to use the override to get the slide in and out. New error code, 8 - wire short between controller and motor. Not sure if it is the wire or the motor, new wire to test it is $75.
Any ideas.
Dave
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11-13-2017, 09:46 AM
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#17
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bduck100
Having gear slipping out of the rail on one rail. Top rail on the rear. Have trip trax system on 2014 33sw. No broken teeth yet. All other rails are working fine. Planning on shimming the one rail by loosening the screws and sliding 1/8 inch aluminum plate between the rail and slide wall. Makes sense that this will help the gears engage the rail better. Any additional thoughts. BD
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This might not be the best idea...
The gear drive is supposed to ride on a "gib" and is tight to the rack because of the roller and key-way that are adjacent.
In the video below, they show lubing these bits to keep everything free and operating.
If the drive gear seems to be pulled away from the rack, I do not believe a shim would really help...because the gear drive should move along with the rack seeking the same spacing.
Best luck
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11-14-2017, 06:30 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab0088
This might not be the best idea...
The gear drive is supposed to ride on a "gib" and is tight to the rack because of the roller and key-way that are adjacent.
In the video below, they show lubing these bits to keep everything free and operating.
If the drive gear seems to be pulled away from the rack, I do not believe a shim would really help...because the gear drive should move along with the rack seeking the same spacing.
Best luck
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Well, I proceeded with the shimming and so far no slipping. Probably a bandaid but I thought worth a try. The gears appear to be going deeper into the rail based on the markings. We shall see! Thanks for the input.
BD
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11-14-2017, 07:26 PM
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#19
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bduck100
Well, I proceeded with the shimming and so far no slipping. Probably a bandaid but I thought worth a try. The gears appear to be going deeper into the rail based on the markings. We shall see! Thanks for the input.
BD
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That's great
Maybe the drive gear was not moving along the gib, so the rack with shim reduced the gap.
Best luck
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11-14-2017, 07:28 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 108
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Shim and longer screws for gear rack
The front top gear was skipping teeth in the rack and I shimmed it 3/16 and it stopped the skip. It makes sense as the top of the slide has no metal frame and the wood for 20 feet got shorter. I also added longer and heavier screws for all four racks. The racks were pulling out the old screws. The bottom of the slide has a good tube steel frame that runs the entire length of the slide.
It is just too heavy of a slide to be moved the way it was designed, if I knew then what I know I would not have bought it. I like someone said before it is hard to change boats now.
Dave
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11-15-2017, 07:39 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Live Oak, Florida
Posts: 698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGalliard01
The front top gear was skipping teeth in the rack and I shimmed it 3/16 and it stopped the skip. It makes sense as the top of the slide has no metal frame and the wood for 20 feet got shorter. I also added longer and heavier screws for all four racks. The racks were pulling out the old screws. The bottom of the slide has a good tube steel frame that runs the entire length of the slide.
It is just too heavy of a slide to be moved the way it was designed, if I knew then what I know I would not have bought it. I like someone said before it is hard to change boats now.
Dave
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Agree. No more full wall slides for me. The next will have four separate ones.
__________________
2021 Tiffin Allegro Red 37PA
2013 THOR Hurricane 34F,
2021 Ford Ranger, Blue Ox, Air Force One, FMCA, Good Sam & Passport America
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11-16-2017, 05:58 PM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam1219
Agree. No more full wall slides for me. The next will have four separate ones.
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I believe that if Thor had properly installed the schwintec system it would be fine. It needs triple trax, great rollers levelling,and lubrication.
I have a 2014 33sw super C that we love. Many small issues I have fixed refusing to take it to a dealer. The latest is improper slide roller installation where the plates for the rollers are too short and the rollers are on wood and not the plates. I have extended the plates and shimmed the rail that was skipping and hoping for the best. I have learned more about this MH than I ever wanted to know which was driven by the poor Thor quality control and equally poor service by rv service departments. We will begin a planned 2yr trip soon with this unit towing a FJ cruiser, 600w solar and 8 bank battery storage. Our biggest concern is the slide and known inferior Thor quality.
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11-17-2017, 11:52 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club KZ RV Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Washington, Columbia River
Posts: 838
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I learned this last week to keep the seals and wipes for the long slide, clean and lubed, constantly. I had thought I was doing a good job doing just this, but the guy at the dealer, took me around and showed me where it was quite dry and actually creating enough friction to slow my slide down to a craw, making the motor work that much harder. I went home and did all he showed me, and man what a difference, working so much better. Yes, this is a little thing but I'm not looking forward to the day I start having bigger problems and everything I can do now hopefully will extend that day coming. OH, another thing, if you use your remote to move your slide out, as I do, make sure it has a full charge. I hadn't charged mine in a year, and found it to stall while going out or in. Charged that up, and again, what a difference.
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11-18-2017, 07:13 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 40
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What did you use for cleaning and lubing the slide seals and wipes on your 33SW? How did you deal with the area under the slide topper? Thanks.
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11-18-2017, 08:09 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club KZ RV Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Washington, Columbia River
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by painterbill
What did you use for cleaning and lubing the slide seals and wipes on your 33SW? How did you deal with the area under the slide topper? Thanks.
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I used "SLIDE-OUT RUBBER SEAL TREATMENT" below the topper it was not bad, but I was able to use a brush on the long pole I use to clean the roof and upper sides that I can't reach. After cleaning all the seals with soap and water (joy detergent, it has no abrasives) I then used this product. It has a long narrow spray at least of 8 feet, so getting the area under the topper might have been bit messy, it was easy. I just wiped it off from the inside, but not really much passed to the inside. So I did the inside again. The rest of the seals were easy. I just wiped the excess into the rubber. My slide was making a horrible noise before I did this, result was great, no noise, movement is so much better. I headed up to Washington today from So Cal, so I'll see how it lasts. I'm taking it with me to do again if I must. There is a product made by the same company that makes a cleaner, but the attendant at the dealer, suggested the Joy dishwashing soap, and I had heard about that before.
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11-18-2017, 09:28 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Live Oak, Florida
Posts: 698
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Slide Roller squeking
I now have a slide roller that is squeaking very loud.
__________________
2021 Tiffin Allegro Red 37PA
2013 THOR Hurricane 34F,
2021 Ford Ranger, Blue Ox, Air Force One, FMCA, Good Sam & Passport America
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12-30-2017, 03:33 PM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 49
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I just had my slide fail. Predictably unpredictable schwintec full wall slide. I am either changing to the power glide system or trading the unit. Anyone have experience with changing to power glide. Very sad as otherwise love the unit.
Bduck100
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12-07-2018, 12:07 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Coastal Campers Freightliner Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Live Oak, Florida
Posts: 698
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Slide out saga continues
Been in the shop for the slide-out since October 20. Had to cancel Christmas trip to Gatlinburg. Will be lucky to get it back February 2019.
So the entire Schwintech slide out mechanism and motors ordered by part number. Tech explained parts came in and they do not match. New parts are not the same size. I learned yesterday Schwintech will have to manufacture new ones just for my coach.
This is so frustrating. I wish I had hydraulic systems. No more full wall slide outs for me EVER and no more THOR products either.
__________________
2021 Tiffin Allegro Red 37PA
2013 THOR Hurricane 34F,
2021 Ford Ranger, Blue Ox, Air Force One, FMCA, Good Sam & Passport America
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