Community Forums

dptadf · 10-09-2015, 03:55 AM

What are Thor installing on later models (2014 - 2015) I have a 2007 34B and am having issues with my BCC. Both isolator relays sound like they are functioning and there is no issues with the chassis battery system. However I do not have any 12v power in the coach unless plugged into the shore power or running the generator. The hose battery's are also not getting charged. I did charge them manually but still do not get power from them to run the coach. If I need to replace the FW-2050 BCC is there a better unit I should install?

mgscott4 · 10-09-2015, 07:16 PM

You could have tripped the 50 amp DC circuit breaker in your BCC. Look in the lower left corner of your BCC circuit board for a small grey or silver DC circuit breaker about 1/2" by 1" in size. On the side of it is a small black button. Push to reset.

The Rick-lo · 01-03-2016, 05:51 PM

I had the same modification made at the dealer this summer on my 2013 Hurricane 32D.
Last week on our way back from winter vaccation, the automatic stair , the HVAC system , driver seat adjustments, windows fan, hydrolic jacks control pannelstoped working with the jacks and stair extended...

All these equipments are connected in the FW BCC control pannel....I'm working to find out if the modification made could have done this issue to happen ....

mgscott4 · 01-03-2016, 09:30 PM

Everything you mentioned that does not work is connected to P3 in your BCC. They are all powered through your chassis relay. Look at your light by the disconnect and verify that the chassis light is lit, (meaning on). If you don't see a problem with your P3 connector on the BCC circuit board, I would try a jumper between the chassis power terminal to the ignition relay terminal on the side of the BCC. Use a 4 AWG jumper at least 12" long. Available at any Auto parts store for under $10. First, Disconnect both engine and the coach batteries for safety.
For more information, read this thread. And download the schematic listed in thread # 1.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/hurr...ct-120145.html

PappySki · 11-29-2016, 08:59 AM

Hi everyone. We just purchased a 2011 Hurricane 32d and for the most part love it. I contacted Thor to see what recalls had been issued and this Battery Control Center was one of them that needed to be implemented. Since I was having a handful of recalls looked at, I let the dealer do the work.

Immediately after the recall work was done, we took our second trip with the end result being chassis and coach batteries being destroyed. Disconnected from Shorepower on the last day and had no power from the coach or chassis side of the electrical system. Checked all switches/fuses/breakers/etc and everything seemed good. Good Sam sent out the mobile tech who got us on our way.

Tech discovered that there was a connection between the chassis and coach batteries when he applied the external charge to the chassis batteries and a coach battery popped. The dealer applied the second recall instructions and moved the cable to the "Chassis Battery" post. There is nothing connected to the "Chassis Switched" post.

Now, all batteries were six years old and I was going to replace them next year. However, before I replace them, I would like to know what killed them. They were topped off by the dealer and fully charged a day before we hit the road. A week later, most cells dry and one blew its top. I have a theory, but I'm not an electrician.

My guess is that a relay/battery isolator switch failed in the BCC in such a way that what the Chassis and Coach batteries were connected. Continuous low amperage usage killed the chassis battery while high amperage starting of the engine killed the coach batteries. Fix being to replace the BCC, Chassis and Coach batteries and add a good battery monitoring system and I should be good to go.

Does that make sense? Any other theories as to what could have killed all the batteries?

billyb · 11-29-2016, 10:03 AM

I ran the jumper cable like the fact had said, but I cut it in half and installed a 12volt solenoid in the middle and rand the small energizing wires to the dash with a switch. If I ever have a problem with the engine cutting out ( which I haven't had in 6 years) I can connect the jumper.

PappySki · 11-29-2016, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billyb

I ran the jumper cable like the fact had said, but I cut it in half and installed a 12volt solenoid in the middle and rand the small energizing wires to the dash with a switch. If I ever have a problem with the engine cutting out ( which I haven't had in 6 years) I can connect the jumper.

Hey billyb, was this in response to me? I don't see the connection. I'm ultimately trying to determine what fried both my vehicle (chassis) and house (coach) batteries. That's $1200 worth of batteries fried permanently in less than a week.

We had the recall work done, drove to the resort (checked the shore power and it was good...I've got a circuit tester and surge protector between the stanchion and my RV)...five days later, I disconnect from shorepower and both sets of batteries are fried.

I can't replace the batteries until I have a logical reason for what killed them. I've seen a couple posts where folks have had dead batteries after having this recall work done. Not sure if there is a connection here or it's just coincidence.

I'm done traveling for the winter, so I have some time to work with it. IN the spring, I will replace both sets of batteries and plan to add the Xantrex LinkLITE system to monitor each set. At least I'll know what is going on with the batteries so I can see if I have a problem coming. I'll also be adding manual battery isolation switches for both the chassis and coach so when I am disconnected, I'll know for a fact that I am disconnected.

Sespe · 05-09-2017, 10:53 PM

Raising the Dead!

But it is worth it. I just purchased a used 2009 Hurricane. Found this thread and glad I did. The fix was never done to my (new to me) MH. Did it myself today (super easy), then wrote on the box with a paint marker the recall # and when it was done.

So, what else did I miss?

Denniscw · 08-28-2017, 05:35 PM

You need a dealer to verify the fix and to notify the manufacturer. That is a no cost check but required.

whitshel · 11-02-2017, 09:27 PM

Hello,

I know I'm late to the party here but I have a couple questions for the group. I have a 2008 Hurricane 34b, and unfortunately my MH did have the total failure of power. I wasn't with the MH at the time so the mobile rv tech bypassed the BCC entirely just so the MH could start and get home. Once I researched and saw the recall I redid the bypass and put both wires on the "chassis battery" terminal, all seemed to work including coach batteries charging except the dash air, cockpit fans, mirrors and steps. I left it that way for a while as i fixed other things, today I put both wires on the "chassis switched" terminal and now the dash air, mirrors, step etc all work but now it seams the coach batteries are not charging. (The coach batteries charge while on shore power or the generator running)

So my questions

1. When people were saying the ran a jumper between the 2 terminals, is this with them hooked up before the recall or with both wires on 1 terminal?

2. If I have them both on the "chassis switched" terminal can I still run a jumper to the "chassis battery"?

3. If they are supposed to be on the "chassis battery" terminal and my dash air, steps, mirrors, fans aren't working (all the P3 stuff) should I try and jumper this over the other terminal and see if that helps or hook it up back to the original way (like when I bought it new) and jumper it?

I do have an appointment at camping world for the recall in a couple weeks, should I just let them deal with it?

I'm so confused and frustrated. I was so happy when I hooked it up the "switched" terminal and everything worked, but then I checked the coach batteries with the engine running and they weren't charging. Ughhhhh

Any help would be appreciated

taylor-rob · 04-06-2023, 03:59 PM

I just started having problems with the relay in the FW 2050 I pulled it out. found a over heated Relay and was able to replace it only Rated at 150 amps.. not much for my Serrano Diesel ..I also installed a Four position battery switch to help out... I'm able to use the system as designed ,Created a Kill switch for Theft, or turn the selector to all "ON" to make a safety jumper for driving. Hope you like the upgrade...