Thor Challenger Owners Unite!

[ctpres]

Originally Posted by rvbunz

I don't think you can tie both tanks in together. Why would you want 80 gallons of grey water?

For one time situation you could. Kinda messy but doable. Just buy two dump end caps with hose fittings and using an adapter connect tanks with garden hose. Perm connection is also doable but I would let a shop do that.

[sbleiweiss]

Originally Posted by ctpres

For one time situation you could. Kinda messy but doable. Just buy two dump end caps with hose fittings and using an adapter connect tanks with garden hose. Perm connection is also doable but I would let a shop do that.

We wanted (want) to do the same thing. Thor gave us a ridiculous price ($2000+) to try to do it with no guarantees. Total Value gave us a reasonable price and we said go. when the contractor came to spin in the connections he refused to do it. So I have not found a way.

Why want to do it? For camping at CGs with only dump stations and not sewer at the sites (or boondocking).

[ctpres]

#72 While our KT handles pretty good on the road I had concerns about our ability to handle steering in the event of a sudden steer tire failure. After a lot of reading here on IRV2 I decided Safe-T-Plus was the best for us. I won't go into details of DIY installation other than my own install tips and Safe-T-Plus documentation problems. Read F53 kit installation instructions and watch youtube video. Following applies to 21-430/blue unit with F53-2.5 kit on 2015 Thor 37KT Challenger on 2014 Ford F53 chassis with 22.5' tires.
PROBLEM #1 . Video shows 3/4 bolts with nut on top and washer on bottom
Printed instructions show nut on bottom and washer on top
PROBLEM #2 Video shows washers on unit bushing and printed instructions show it on top of plate on the large end and on unit bushing on the small end. The final answers were.The 3/4 bolt can go ether way, just make sure to check clearance. The small end of the STP can go on the top or bottom of the tie rod bracket. Which ever makes the unit more level. On the large end the washer goes between the bolt and the anchor bracket (see 4a); on the smaller end the washer goes between the bolt and the bolt and the end of the unit (see 4b)
It's a real shame to spent that kind of money and get such sloppy instructions.
Decision to buy and install came during three month stop so there was no chance to find steering wheel centered position on the road. I got around that by running a string from rear tire around front tire just below chrome cap. Then all I had to do was turn wheel so string touched front tire equally on front and back edges. Removing and reinstalling the 3/4 inch nuts use PB Blaster or WD40 on 3/4 ubolt threads then clean with wire brush makes nut removal much easier. If impact wrench not avail. add 1/2" breaker bar to list of tools needed. Tightening the 3/4 inch bolts with coach on the ground I could not hold open end wrench on top and operate wrench on bottom at the same time. I solved that by just wrapping some stiff wire around end of open end wrench and tie rod.
First day on the road was almost 400 miles. String trick above got me so close to straight that I did not want to waste time trying to adjust it. I must say it makes driving a lot easier. Worth the money for that alone.

[LyonsL]

Originally Posted by ctpres

#72 While our KT handles pretty good on the road I had concerns about our ability to handle steering in the event of a sudden steer tire failure. After a lot of reading here on IRV2 I decided Safe-T-Plus was the best for us. I won't go into details of DIY installation other than my own install tips and Safe-T-Plus documentation problems...
First day on the road was almost 400 miles. String trick above got me so close to straight that I did not want to waste time trying to adjust it. I must say it makes driving a lot easier. Worth the money for that alone.

ctpres, thanks for sharing. This is one of the items on my to-do list and it's good to hear that it's worth the time & money!

[bigdaddy5120]

ctpres Thanks for sharing. Can you take some pictures of the install. The wife and I were just talking about adding this.

[Thor 37GT]

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Suspension and Tire Problem -

It has been a difficult trip. We have been noticing a strange and early wear issue on one front tire. On the trip home it has been getting worse to the point that we stopped at a truck tire repair place and had it checked out. They checked for things like a bad shock or steering knuckle, but found dry kingpins. They said this was causing the tire to bounce and tear up. They said we stopped just in time because it was already seperated and a blowout waiting to happen. they greased the kingpins but said they should be replaced, and sold us one new tire to limp home on.

I would be suspicious of the advice, except the place that diagnosed the kingpins and greased them seemed to know what they were talking about, and didn't charge me anything. The place that had one tire that would work wasn't the one that did any diagnosis.

But does this make sense, and who was supposed to grease these kingpins that I didn't even know existed?

I have a 2013 37gt with 10000 mile and two front tires that where worn out. The alignment shop said that the toe was out even though the MH drove straight down the road. I watched the alignment. After two new tires and alignment I drove the MH for the first time and saw the steering wheel was off, so back to the dealer and he said that he thought the front end was off from the mfg. so the steering wheel would be straight. All I need to do is adjust the wheel and I should be good. Long story short check the alignment its most likely the problem. There is only one adjustment on the front end.

[sbleiweiss]

Originally Posted by Thor 37GT

I have a 2013 37gt with 10000 mile and two front tires that where worn out. The alignment shop said that the toe was out even though the MH drove straight down the road. I watched the alignment. After two new tires and alignment I drove the MH for the first time and saw the steering wheel was off, so back to the dealer and he said that he thought the front end was off from the mfg. so the steering wheel would be straight. All I need to do is adjust the wheel and I should be good. Long story short check the alignment its most likely the problem. There is only one adjustment on the front end.

Yes, toe of the allignment is what my Ford dealer is telling me too. I hope for both of our sakes that they are right. Ford also found my kingpins with too much play up and down. They are shimming them under warranty, but said this would not have caused the tire problem.

On a related note, relevant to all Challenger owners, I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement Michelin tire. They are out of stock and out of production. To make matters worse, no other tire company makes the size that Thor uses on the Challenger.

[Thor 37GT]

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Yes, toe of the allignment is what my Ford dealer is telling me too. I hope for both of our sakes that they are right. Ford also found my kingpins with too much play up and down. They are shimming them under warranty, but said this would not have caused the tire problem.

On a related note, relevant to all Challenger owners, I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement Michelin tire. They are out of stock and out of production. To make matters worse, no other tire company makes the size that Thor uses on the Challenger.

My kingpins are ok, but yes the tires are harder to find my dealer said he only had 4 and I bought 2. He said he didn't now when they would be making more. These tires are hard to find no matter where you go that is why I carry a spare with me at all times. I used a boat trailer crank to lift the tire and rim up under the back of the MH then used chain booms to hold it in place. I also have everything to change the tire myself if need be.
I think there is other tire mfg. that make a tire that will work but it is wider or taller and you wouldn't be able to use just one. My two tires and alignment was $1240.00. Not the greatest deal but this is the only dealer in my area that can do both tires and alignment.

[sbleiweiss]

Originally Posted by Thor 37GT

My kingpins are ok, but yes the tires are harder to find my dealer said he only had 4 and I bought 2. He said he didn't now when they would be making more. These tires are hard to find no matter where you go that is why I carry a spare with me at all times. I used a boat trailer crank to lift the tire and rim up under the back of the MH then used chain booms to hold it in place. I also have everything to change the tire myself if need be.
I think there is other tire mfg. that make a tire that will work but it is wider or taller and you wouldn't be able to use just one. My two tires and alignment was $1240.00. Not the greatest deal but this is the only dealer in my area that can do both tires and alignment.

We limped home from Wyoming on a Goodyear that was taller and wider. Tire experts are telling me that it wouldn't be good even to put two of them on (both fronts). I am not sure what to believe, but Ford found the tire for me. A Ford dealer in GA had one. Apparently Ford pays to send tires around from dealer to dealer. I will post the cost for allignment and one tire when I learn it. Thor also found a dealer in Elkhart that could get seven of them. I am going to buy one of those to and carry a spare. I am not going to mount it as it seems there are always truck tire places around that can do that. It is getting the tire in the first place that can take days.

[sbleiweiss]

Levelling - Is there a way to calibrate the auto level feature to make it match what a level tells you is really level? It would be nice if you could trust when the center light comes on, indicating the coach is level. We can't.

[ctpres]

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Levelling - Is there a way to calibrate the auto level feature to make it match what a level tells you is really level? It would be nice if you could trust when the center light comes on, indicating the coach is level. We can't.

Yes there is a calibrate procedure. Does your LCI control have an LCD display?

[LyonsL]

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Levelling - Is there a way to calibrate the auto level feature to make it match what a level tells you is really level? It would be nice if you could trust when the center light comes on, indicating the coach is level. We can't.

From the LCI manual:

Level Zero Point Calibration
Before auto leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the
system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated.
To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a
manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point
configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off.
2. Perform the following:
• Press the FRONT switch 10 times (on Winnebago units press the FRONT button 5 times).
• Press the REAR switch 10 times (on Winnebago units press the REAR button 5 times).
3. At this point, an alarm will sound and the display reads ZERO POINT CALIBRATION PRESS ENTER.
4. System can be operated in the MANUAL MODE to attain level condition during this period.
5. Press ENTER to set the zero point.
6. Screen will then display PLEASE WAIT.
7. Alarm will sound and the screen will display ZERO POINT SUCCESSFUL.
8. Control will then turn “OFF”.
For DIESEL UNITS with Air Bag Suspensions ONLY:
• The leveling control will automatically program for air bag control. If the unit does not use air bags,
the display will read, “NO” for air bag control.

[sbleiweiss]

Originally Posted by ctpres

Yes there is a calibrate procedure. Does your LCI control have an LCD display?

No. We have no LCD display. Only the center light and one light next to each button (front, rear, left, right).

[ctpres]

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

No. We have no LCD display. Only the center light and one light next to each button (front, rear, left, right).

Try this and good luck.
"
Before auto-leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the system will return
when an auto leveling cycle is initiated.
To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence
to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2. Perform the following:
-Press the FRONT switch 5 times.
-Press the REAR switch 5 times.
3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference point for the
Zero Point Configuration.
6. When coach is completely leveled manually press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times to set the zero point.