Community Forums

Thor 37GT · 09-19-2015, 11:52 AM

After having the front end aligned on the MH I noticed that the steering wheel was not centered anymore so I took it back to the alignment shop and they said that I needed an adjustable drag link (this was a lie they don't make one) after researching this I found that on the newer MH you cant take the steering wheel off to realign the wheel you have to take the splined knuckle off the top of the steering box which I did and the wheel is back to straight again ( I think I only moved it one spline it does take two people to do this the DW was great help). Unless you are a fix it yourself type of person you should have the alignment shop do this for you.

ctpres · 09-23-2015, 06:34 AM

Just got home after a ten month, 10,258 mile trip around the US in our new 37KT - During this trip I have been making a list of mostly minor changes we would like to see. Here they are in no special order:

Add felt pads to inside edegs of bottom door guides. One less rattle.

Replace huge deck plate in power bay with 50 amp cable hatch. Keeps rodents and bigger bugs out.

Get Ford to deliver chassis with long stems on inner dual.

Relocate dash night shade switch. Current spot very hard to reach with table installed and chair in table use or TV viewing position. Just swap positions with a switch on the other side of steering wheel.

Rear window valance off center just a bit to the curb side will allow full opening of closet door

Snap buttons on aft end of driver/passenger curtains. Would allow easy opening of curtains from either end. Reaching across dash to open or close especially on the drivers side is a real bear. Better ventilation (no curtain blocking window opening) and can open window for ventilation with curtain still covering front half of window as sunscreen. Plus it's a lot easier to close curtain on aft end at night

Add reading light on bottom of drop down bunk centered on table

Outside TV hatch goes beyond horizontal on open. Two problems with that: Sudden rain or leaky awning water will hit hatch and run back to hinge side then down in enclosure splashing on TV. With coach up on jacks it is impossible for average height person to reach hatch to close it. Shorter strut or relocate strut ends so open position is below horizontal. Lower angle should keep water out of enclosure, provide better shading of screen for daytime viewing and put hatch within reach of more people for closing.

Change ionization smoke detectors to photoelectric. Frequent false alarms result in battery removal and loss of important protection. False alarms were so bad for us that I had to remove battery from mid coach detector. We could not even make toast without setting off both detectors. I converted the two original detectors to photoelectric and added one in front. Not one false alarm since. There was nothing wrong with the ionization detectors - they were working as desigend - going into alarm on thinks we can't see

Vent microwave/convection to outside.

Put frig on floor - adequate return air for furnace not that hard

Require EVERY vendor supplying appliances, furniture and major components to have a website with manuals and self help info.

Thor produced DVD in player with every new coach for sales demo and buyer use later. Tells Thor story, explains features of the coach and how to use the various systems

Tag line for advertising series "Leave your suitcase at home." Take you next vacation in a Thor and "leave your suitcase at home" or Who needs a suitcase when you travel with Thor.

Customers at Thor factory for service often run out of things to do. Let them inspect finished products while they wait

Light in shower for use at night

Rear ladder a few inches shorter. Bottom of ladder is well below lowest point on hitch. Many have been damaged/broken with modest grade changes like entering gas station.

Move smoke detector at entry (37KT) to front room. Better yet have fire protection for every floor plan approved by a certified fire alarm planner. RVIA/UL standard is a joke. One time cost of a few hundred bucks for each floor plan is insignificant.

Ventilation is a problem with frame less windows - not enough surface area and they block any wind. Add another ceiling vent in front over the drop down bunk

Rear window fire exit idea. Hinge the whole rear window on street side - make ledge below window on rear cap flat with 3M stair tread. Open widow stand on bed step out on ledge and climb down ladder. Plus with frame hinged it should be possible to have operable window for ventilation

Cross ventilation on KT limited with only two operable windows street side vs. six on curb side. How about long narrow window at head of bed just below cabinets

Do not change floor plan. It is great.

bigben · 09-23-2015, 02:49 PM

ctpres - NICE review - thank you. We took a mini version of your trip (about 8500 miles) with three of our grandkids. And you are right - leave the suitcase home.

Funny thing, we believe the kids were kinda "burned out" on traveling and seeing things after 45 days. But after getting back into school and talking with their friends and teachers - they are ready to go again. Seems everyone went WOW.

Again, thanks for the recap. We have the 37TB but several of your suggestions are applicable.

sbleiweiss · 09-24-2015, 08:01 AM

Great list Chuck. We have done several of your fixes aftermarket, some DIY, some at Total Value RV.

walturd51 · 09-24-2015, 10:45 AM

My theromostat is against the cabinet wall under a cabinet, there's no or little air flow air back there. It reads 5-7 degs warmer than 2 thermometers I have in open areas. It will be relocated by moving it to the edge for the cabinet wall inward toaward the center of the coach. Later this week.

KC · 09-24-2015, 11:38 AM

Great post Chuck!!!

KC

ctpres · 09-24-2015, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walturd51

My theromostat is against the cabinet wall under a cabinet, there's no or little air flow air back there. It reads 5-7 degs warmer than 2 thermometers I have in open areas. It will be relocated by moving it to the edge for the cabinet wall inward toaward the center of the coach. Later this week.

Seems to be more of a problem with the thermostats. Agreed they must be in place to measure moving air but mine are three to five degrees high with a fan blowing on them. Factory service center says mine are acceptable.

LyonsL · 09-24-2015, 04:01 PM

ctpres, this was also on my to do list since the day that we bought the coach & I just finished the project. It was not a difficult job but it took a lot of courage to cut the hole in the side of the coach.

I bought & attached a damper to the rear of the microwave after removing and changing the direction of the blower motor. I also made a short section of ducting to fill the gap between the damper and the outside vent cover. All told the job took about 3 hours.

The attached photos show the inside & outside of the coach after cutting the hole in the wall and the finished project. I've also included a photo showing the thickness of the coach walls (for those that are curious).

ctpres · 09-24-2015, 04:13 PM

LyonsL GREAT job and it looks fantastic. Do you have part numbers and source for vent and damper.

LyonsL · 09-24-2015, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

LyonsL GREAT job and it looks fantastic. Do you have part numbers and source for vent and damper.

The damper is a standard model that fits a lot of microwaves. It's Whirlpool Part #8206442. I saw it on the Whirlpool website for $50 and other sites for $35 but I found one at a local appliance repair shop for $20.

I bought the outside vent here: Microwave Oven Vent. It's solid black plastic but it's built well and looks good compared to others that I saw.

I've added a better photo of the outside vent.

ctpres · 09-25-2015, 06:42 AM

Does anybody know what size the cable is? Ordering DIY repair kit and not sure which size swaging tool I need 3/16 or 5/32.

handyman1943 · 09-25-2015, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL

ctpres, this was also on my to do list since the day that we bought the coach & I just finished the project. It was not a difficult job but it took a lot of courage to cut the hole in the side of the coach.

I bought & attached a damper to the rear of the microwave after removing and changing the direction of the blower motor. I also made a short section of ducting to fill the gap between the damper and the outside vent cover. All told the job took about 3 hours.

The attached photos show the inside & outside of the coach after cutting the hole in the wall and the finished project. I've also included a photo showing the thickness of the coach walls (for those that are curious).

Great idea!! I would also be interested in any source of parts you could provide.

LyonsL · 09-26-2015, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Does anybody know what size the cable is? Ordering DIY repair kit and not sure which size swaging tool I need 3/16 or 5/32.

5/32 is the size you need.

sbleiweiss · 09-26-2015, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thor 37GT

My kingpins are ok, but yes the tires are harder to find my dealer said he only had 4 and I bought 2. He said he didn't now when they would be making more. These tires are hard to find no matter where you go that is why I carry a spare with me at all times. I used a boat trailer crank to lift the tire and rim up under the back of the MH then used chain booms to hold it in place. I also have everything to change the tire myself if need be.
I think there is other tire mfg. that make a tire that will work but it is wider or taller and you wouldn't be able to use just one. My two tires and alignment was $1240.00. Not the greatest deal but this is the only dealer in my area that can do both tires and alignment.

I promised to report the cost of my alignment and one new Michelin, mounted and balanced. The Ford dealer charged me $640 for this work. Kingpins were shimmed under warranty.