Community Forums

sbleiweiss · 10-13-2015, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

From install man.
When the room is seated full out, the OUTSIDE cables should be slack enough to move the cable
approximately ½” up or down (1” total movement) by hand. The holding power is actually on the
INSIDE cables pulling the standoff brackets tight against the frame.

When the room is seated full in, the INSIDE cables should be slack enough to move the cable
approximately ½” up or down (1” total movement) by hand. The holding power is now on the
OUTSIDE cables pulling the standoff brackets tight against the frame

I am convinced if we keep an eye on cables we can avoid total cable failure. Should you do something - IMO yes and do it before cable breaks.

Chuck:

I am confused by your answer. At first you say a little slack on outside cables when slide is extended (my situation) is fine. Then you say I should do something about it. What am I misunderstanding?

ctpres · 10-13-2015, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Chuck:

I am confused by your answer. At first you say a little slack on outside cables when slide is extended (my situation) is fine. Then you say I should do something about it. What am I misunderstanding?

You said ONE of the four was SLACK. I would bet that when slide is in - one inside cable - probably lower rear is slack. As I understand the cable system - tension should be about equal on all 8 cables (four pull in and 4 pull out.) If tension gets to far out of whack slide will not travel in or out square. At a minimum I would check ends of all eight cables for strand breaks - where they attach to slide and measure deflection/tension on all eight cables then call Thor. If it does need adjustment the most difficult part will be getting wood trim off and back on.

ctpres · 10-15-2015, 07:12 AM

Process of removing filter, washing, waiting for it to dry and reinstalling a PITA. Decided to buy a couple more filters so I could simply rotate them. Cheapest ones I could find were around $7.00 each. Problem solved found "FROST KING WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER FILTER WASHABLE AND REUSEABLE 15"X24"1/4" on Ebay for $5.00 and in one minute with a pair of scissors I now have three new filters.

bigdaddy5120 · 10-17-2015, 06:14 PM

I had problem with the steps not coming out , CW installed a new control board about 2 weeks ago but they couldn't get them to work with the step switch, I had to unplug them while deployed to get them to stay out.

I was there yesterday for 10.5 hours for them to work on the steps again, replace the microwave , work on the awning, and repair a leak I thought was around the windshield. They only managed to get the microwave replaced, leaked repaired( around the maker lights) and to screw the steps up even worse. The steps wouldn't deploy at all and they didn't know how to fix them( they let me know this about 30 minutes before they closed ) to say I was pissed was understatement. I looked at the steps today and found they had no power , so I started looking for a popped fuse and found one under the hood. I replaced it and it immediately popped. So I opened up the switch and noticed there is three wires going to the switch that only has 2 prongs for wires . I figured out which one was the power and the ground. I hooked those up and the fuse held and the steps came back alive but the switch still won't make them stay deployed .
Could this be a bad switch ? Anyway to check ? what about the third wire ?

ctpres · 10-18-2015, 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120

Could this be a bad switch ? Anyway to check ? what about the third wire ?

Look at wire route from door frame switch to where it goes under stairwell carpet. If it goes between door frame and door trimm - that needs to be fixed. Wire will be pinched between the metal pieces and either shorted or cut for open circuit. One of above results in steps won't extend and the other steps won't retract. See post 1680
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2506012
And 1788 for how I fixed it
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...50811-128.html

bigdaddy5120 · 10-18-2015, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

Look at wire route from door frame switch to where it goes under stairwell carpet. If it goes between door frame and door trimm - that needs to be fixed. Wire will be pinched between the metal pieces and either shorted or cut for open circuit. One of above results in steps won't extend and the other steps won't retract. See post 1680
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2506012

Thanks, but mine doesn't run under that metal piece . I checked that when you posted it a while back. Also the door switch was replaced also.

ctpres · 10-18-2015, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120

Thanks, but mine doesn't run under that metal piece . I checked that when you posted it a while back. Also the door switch was replaced also.

Try cutting door switch wires close to controller and see what happens when shorted together or open. If OK then wire damaged between switch and step control. If still have problem then there probably is a bad wire crimp at plug between wire and metal pin

sbleiweiss · 10-19-2015, 09:21 AM

Progressive Industies Surge Protector/EMS - Has anyone used these on their Challenger? If you hardwired it, how hard was it? How did you do it? If you use the portable, do you find it presents any problems, as in theft or weather issues?

bigdaddy5120 · 10-19-2015, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Progressive Industies Surge Protector/EMS - Has anyone used these on their Challenger? If you hardwired it, how hard was it? How did you do it? If you use the portable, do you find it presents any problems, as in theft or weather issues?

I have the portable and it just saved me about two weeks ago. The park I was staying at got a large surge and many people lost things in thier coaches and it took the electric compnay 5 hours to restore power . I didn't have any issues and the product worked as designed . The only problem with the portable is remebering to use it . I plan on installing the hard wired version this winter to take care of that problem. There are youtube videos showing you how to install it . I plan on just cutting my cord , installing and mounting to the sidewall of the bay. Keep us posted if you do something else. I think Ctpres installed some type of surge guard in his 2015.

KC · 10-19-2015, 02:57 PM

I don’t have one but Im getting one installed into my RV. My dealer has told me that the installed one can also protect your RV from its own Generator issues.

KC

bigdaddy5120 · 10-19-2015, 03:27 PM

Here are some install videos :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDKoccBlsbE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBtY49r2jU0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUI9o2B3FUA

bigdaddy5120 · 10-19-2015, 03:54 PM

Anybody know where transfer switch is on a 2014 37KT ? The power cord goes up into the floor, and that appears to be under the bed. Can anyone confirm this ?

ctpres · 10-19-2015, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Progressive Industies Surge Protector/EMS - Has anyone used these on their Challenger? If you hardwired it, how hard was it? How did you do it? If you use the portable, do you find it presents any problems, as in theft or weather issues?

See post 1358
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2328021

Only reason I used that brand - it was a lot cheaper. Has done it's thing a couple times already do to low voltage and bad park power at our ped.

LyonsL · 10-19-2015, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Progressive Industies Surge Protector/EMS - Has anyone used these on their Challenger? If you hardwired it, how hard was it? How did you do it? If you use the portable, do you find it presents any problems, as in theft or weather issues?

I have the portable one and have been using it for a few years without any problems. I bought it when I owned my previous coach and it saved that coach from electrical damage twice. It has saved my Challenger at least once in the past year.

I bought it because of the lifetime guarantee. I don't mind the portable one because I always use it and I plug it into the park power pedestal and check for problems before I plug in the coach. It found problems with the electrical service a few times so I notified the campground office and moved my coach to a different site.

It's weatherproof and I secure it to the electrical pedestal with a heavy duty cable lock. If it does get stolen someday, I'll probably replace it at that time with a hard wired one.