Community Forums

opcop · 02-16-2018, 02:16 AM

PappaJ13,
I have a 2012 Challenger 37DT and love it. I’ve had my issues, but nothing to make me throw in the towel. I had a motor go out in my galley slideout causing me to manually push it back in. After watching YouTube videos I saw how simple it was to replace. My extended warranty would cover it for a $100 deductible, but I would have to drive it 90 miles to Giant RV in Colton, Ca and most likely be without it for several weeks and then drive back, with gas prices in Ca at $3.19 a gallon. I found a 2 pk Lippert in wall slide motors on Amazon for $185 and installed it in about 10 mins. Works perfect again. Not sure if your issue is the motor or something else. If it’s a bad motor, check out the YouTube video link I attached. Good luck.
https://youtu.be/DviEbWT3lUo

TechNot · 02-16-2018, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres

#108 MW/convection oven counter light not bright enough for tired old eyes. Also if left on for extended periods it will warm anything stored in the oven - not good for a candy bar. My solution was a 5 watt LED white light. MUCH brighter at almost 45 watt equivalent. Virtually no heat.
Avail. on Amazon Prime two for $8.00. https://www.amazon.com/Aooshine-Micr...ermediate+Base If you don't get this one just be sure it is dimmable - if not you will not get lower level light on the second switch tap. Old bulb probably has a dab of hot glue at lamp base and socket. Be sure to add hot glue to new bulb. It is there to keep bulb from vibrating and coming out during travel.
Hey Techno - drop by Sat around 4 for Happy Hour and you can have one.

You motivated me to check mine and clean it. Unfortunately the bulb in my convection oven is different. Sincerely appreciate it though. We still need to have dinner some night before the end of the month and maybe a bike ride.

wldracing · 03-03-2018, 01:50 PM

I have a 2015 Thor Challenger 35 HT Ford F350 chassis. Running Lights, Turn signals, horn, emerg. lights, fog lights don't work. (They work in the Rear). Press on the horn and I hear a buzz, but no horn. I turn the light switch on and the bright light indicator on the dash stays on cannot turn it off. When the left or right turn signal is on the led lights flash both left and right.

The Dealer and Ford Had no idea, and both said we can't help you they both point in each others direction. So I checked all of the relays, and fuses in the cab ...all good. So my next step was to check the engine compartment. I finally did get a schematic from Thor which had me think that it could be a ground.

So low and behold I opened the engine compartment (front of RV) and there was a ground wire coming from the harness that connected all the lights on the front of the RV. This wire was grounded to the left hand lower front cap brace. The screw that grounded the wire and held the telescopic brace was sheered off and the wire was dangling.

I drilled out the small screw an added a larger stainless self taper #14 x 1 inch hex head. Before adding the screw I sanded down to bare metal at the area of the ground cable.

This did the trick, everything is working.

Check these screws on the front cap braces, with time and vibration they will not last. Also check how the windshield wiper fluid container is mounted. Mine just had hex heads drilled through the plastic...I added washers ...I could see the screws were very tight and would soon break the plastic that held the container to the frame. Just food for thought.

https://youtu.be/s7K_x5CE3jw

amroll · 03-03-2018, 10:45 PM

Good for you for finding it! I had the same problem this summer with my 2017 LX, but the ground was just loose, instead of sheared off. It took one enterprising mobile mechanic to find it, when no one else could. Now I know to check it, if those things stop working.

sbleiweiss · 03-24-2018, 11:08 AM

I don't know if all the Challengers have the same setup, but on ours the Onan oil filter screws in from the bottom and goes almost flush with a metal screen along the bottom of the generator. As such it is nearly impossible to get a wrench onto the filter to give it a last tightening after finger tight. My current filter has vibrated loose and is leaking oil. How do you all tighten your filter if you have the same or similar setup?

ctpres · 03-24-2018, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

I don't know if all the Challengers have the same setup, but on ours the Onan oil filter screws in from the bottom and goes almost flush with a metal screen along the bottom of the generator. As such it is nearly impossible to get a wrench onto the filter to give it a last tightening after finger tight. My current filter has vibrated loose and is leaking oil. How do you all tighten your filter if you have the same or similar setup?

Look up "cap oil filter wrench." They come in different sizes. A cup or cap that fits over edges of filter groves and ridges. Just press on filter and plug ratchet wrench into 3/8 or 1/2 inch hole in center of cap. Easy on and easy off. Sorry I am on wrong computer to post pic.

sroyer · 03-25-2018, 06:40 AM

Don't try to buy a cap filter wrench at an auto store. Onan makes their own in an odd size. Nothing else will fit. I bought one from an onan dealer, and it broke the first time I used it. made of cast metal. So I just wrap a paper towel around the filter and use a cap wrench that's close, it works.

ctpres · 03-25-2018, 10:34 AM

#109 RecPro recliners have been a very popular Challenger project. Ours are now over one year of fulltime use and still look and feel as a good as day one. BUT-
We have an Amazon visitor that frequently changes places with DW. Got to be STRONG. In less than one year she managed to break the handle and two cables with her right hand. I moved DW to the left recliner for left handed operation and no more problems. I fixed broken handle, Recpro replaced chair under wty when cable broke the first time and I replaced cable DIY on the second cable break. I would not call it an easy or quick project - but definitely a DIY. Ordering cable: The cable needs an "S" shaped hook with 4.75 inch length from end of clip to end of S hook - this is exposed spring covered wire plus length of S clip. This is probably the most critical measurement. Next is overall length. Many are available at 36" overall length and might work. Longer is OK and IMO better. Extra length will allow bigger curves/bends and more importantly pull angle adjustment. Mine is about 42 inches from top of D handle to end of S hook and I think it is actually smoother operation than the original. The biggest problem is location of the screws on the D handle end. The screws are well below to top of the cushion. Push cushion down at D handle to see them. With a strong helper pushing cushion down it may be possible to remove screws without taking chair apart which is what I did. With chair upside down find S clip and spring. Cable end is secured to frame with a black plastic housing that clips to frame. Squeeze clips together and remove. Remove S hook and cable is now disconnected from bottom. Next remove two long phillips head bolts on each side of frame and four bolts that hold leg cushion to frame extension. Frame now free to be removed. To get at D handle screws from the bottom I had to cut fabric (not vinyl.) Cut plastic screw tabs off D handle mount. Tape new cable S hook end to D handle end and pull new cable out the bottom. It probably will be necessary to enlarge cable exit hole thru fabric. Put S hook in same hole and push end housing clips into frame. Original D handle was mounted straight up. When seated the natural pull angle was causing unnecessary stress on cable. I tilted mount so pull was closer to straight line and reinstalled screws. Under $12 for two cables and less than 1.5 hours to complete. There are numerous YouTube videos on recliner cable replacement but none of then cover the hard to reach screws found on our recliner. Do watch a couple before tackling this project. It makes things a lost easier. Note distance between D handle and mounting bracket. If you can find one shorter - installation and future replacement would be easier as the mounting screws would be closer to top of cushion.

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ctpres · 03-25-2018, 11:30 AM

#110 Our Sewer Solutions dump cap is so far back in wet bay that it is hard to see. I added a clear extension but still hard to see what was going on without getting on my knees. My solution is a short piece of one inch schedule 40 clear PVC pipe. Hose end PVC coupling is just pressed into dump elbow - simply put clear pipe inbetween the two and done. All of five minutes and under $7 for a six inch piece on Ebay. Black flecks in clear section is what black tank flush looks like near the end. Now it is much easier to tell when tank is clean. Anybody from Valterra watching - idea is yours and free.

ctpres · 03-25-2018, 11:59 AM

#111 Shower hose holding bracket. With hose thur bracket the hose not really long enough to reach feet. Solution remove bracket. That was good, but with entire length of hose free to move there was a chance - hose - over time - would mar shower sidewall during travel. Not to mention hose banging on shower wall. Solution - cut out a section of bracket with opening less than width of hose. Now if longer hose is needed just pull it out of holder. To better secure hose during travel just loop as shown. I cut out section smaller than hose dia. with a hack saw blade and cleaned edges with a file. $0.00 cost and less than ten minutes. Sorry about the sideways pics - just not worth a do-over

ctpres · 03-25-2018, 12:36 PM

#112 Finally getting caught up with some past work. Not sure if rotation of cockpit chairs was getting harder after ocer three years of almost daily use or we are just getting weaker with age. In any case I had to do something. First effort was spaying lube in between rotating sections. No noticeable difference. What finally worked was so simple! Lay on floor and lift skirt at back of chair. There is a big 1 inch nut in center of the rotating plate. Just turn it CCW one or two full turns and test rotation. Ours both ended up being almost two complete turns to make a big difference. Now chair rotation is effortless.

sbleiweiss · 03-25-2018, 01:50 PM

Chuck and SRoyer: Do you know offhand the specs of your cap wrenches? Apparently I need to know millimeters and number of flutes. Thanks for giving me direction. We are almost there.

ctpres · 03-25-2018, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss

Chuck and SRoyer: Do you know offhand the specs of your cap wrenches? Apparently I need to know millimeters and number of flutes. Thanks for giving me direction. We are almost there.

I got 55mm across flats and forgot to count. If nobody else responds I'll get it tomorrow.

ctpres · 04-21-2018, 03:12 PM

#113 - Side markers lights - especially the amber ones on top of the front cap have been a real problem. They just fall apart or fall off on the road. I had problems finding replacement lens that would fit. So initially I just bought the whole assembly and replaced side marker light assembly at rear wheels and moved old lens to front cap. I finally found direct replacement lenses: Bargman 34-59-010 Red lens and Peterson V2549-15A Amber lens. Both were a good snap on and tight fit but I added a bit of silicon on the bottom edge just to be sure they stay. Found them at local PPL store in Houston. BTW they have great online parts service. Pic attached of one I removed today. For some reason the red lenses have not been a problem - yet. Next time on roof check yours. If you see a lot of cracking in lens as shown in the pic - start looking for replacements.