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Old 01-23-2017, 02:53 PM   #1
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Warning for Tuscany owners

I have a 2012 42RQ. To make a long story short, the entire floor is rotten in the compartment that houses the water tanks and the sewer dump valves. I have no water pump leak or tank leak. The mh is housed inside of my shop and is only used about 6 weeks a year. Anyway, I ripped out the floor and replacing it with HDPE. I phoned a friend of mine that has a 2013 Tuscany and his floor is beginning to rot also due to water. Seems like Thor is using the wrong type plywood for the decking and the fabric covering is not providing the waterproofing. Just wanted to pass this along so that others may check their compartments.....
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:24 PM   #2
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So with a extended warenty I should be good?
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Old 01-23-2017, 03:33 PM   #3
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I have a 2012 42RQ. To make a long story short, the entire floor is rotten in the compartment that houses the water tanks and the sewer dump valves. I have no water pump leak or tank leak. The mh is housed inside of my shop and is only used about 6 weeks a year. Anyway, I ripped out the floor and replacing it with HDPE. I phoned a friend of mine that has a 2013 Tuscany and his floor is beginning to rot also due to water. Seems like Thor is using the wrong type plywood for the decking and the fabric covering is not providing the waterproofing. Just wanted to pass this along so that others may check their compartments.....
Can you post pic's?? Have a neighbor with one of these..
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:08 PM   #4
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What kind of material are they using to cover the plywood?
On my 2015 they have vinyl covering the plywood on both sidesand the vinyl appears to be a good heavy layer perhaps about 1/32" thick

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Old 01-24-2017, 06:18 AM   #5
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Not sure about an extended warranty of which I have one. I choose to do the job myself because I wanted it fixed my way instead of an RV place going back with plywood.
There was a covering on both sides of the plywood floor. The top side does have a black mat that resembles fiberglass but evidently it was not waterproof. I have to admit, I probably did get some small amount of water in there from filling the tank, cleaning the sewer compartment, etc. The bottom side was a very thin sheet of metal of which fell out due to rust. That was how I discovered the problem to start with.
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Old 01-24-2017, 06:41 AM   #6
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Let me also say this. I did talk to Thor about it and they offered to fix the problem if I bring the coach to them. Too long of a trip to Elkhart from South Carolina....
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:06 AM   #7
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just this past February we had ours replaced, slightly outside of warranty period, in Wakarusa at the service center...

here's what I relayed to them about the construction:

-the 'boxes' are constructed of plywood. Though they are covered with 'water resistant' material, which is nice, it DOES NOT create a water proof scenario. Because these 'boxes' are built in the factory, each edge of each piece of plywood is cut, leaving a 'raw' edge. These edges are NOT covered by the water resistant material, only the flat surfaces are.
While the factory uses CAULKING at all the interior corners where the pieces meet, we all know that water WILL find it's way into ANY slight opening, even as great as the caulking job might look. With the coach moving and flexing, it's no wonder that the 'box' edges are under stress and will eventually pull away, revealing holes that the caulk no longer fill.

Water intrusion from bay doors: with our Palazzo bay doors, which are more like separate 'compartment' doors, the factory installs rubberized seal strips around the interior frame lip of each door frame. On the surface, this seems satisfactory since it provides an 'air seal' when each door is closed.
The problem is, though, that water and air are not the same. Water flows down the side of the coach wall, over and around the upper door frame, BEHIND the rubberized seal strip, and INTO the compartment. Water also sits on top of the door itself, so when you open the door after a rain, even days later, water then can run down into, or fall into, the compartment.

Over time, water finds it's way into the bays. On several occasions I would open the main bay and find a gallon or more of water sloshing around the bay floor, with NO WAY to get out, since the factory does not provide any 'drains' or 'weep holes' for water to escape. At first, you believe that the floor covering protects this from affecting any long term negative effects to the bay construction, but then you start to see signs: bubbling effect of the flooring in several places, black mold near the door edges, and we even had some type of mold 'mushroom' growing out the bottom edges near the door!

When I pushed in several places on the floor, I could certainly feel too much give - a sign of degradation of the plywood. I'm sure due to water getting into the wood and rotting it. As the plywood base rots, it looses it's ability to hold the weight of the bay, and starts to buckle and 'give', even pulling away from the rail edges where it is attached.

After all this, and the replacement of the main bay and water bay floors, I told the factory rep that unless the factory finds a better way to construct these floors/bays, they will continue to get these replacement requests - which is a costly repair.

If they will WRAP the water resistant covering around EACH and every EDGE, before they build each compartment, they MAY be able to provide better long term construction. Also, they need to find a better method to keep water from coming in through the bay doors. A better seal, or an additional seal around the TOP of each door, or even a 'drip edge' above each door, might be the solution.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:12 PM   #8
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So I went out and checked mine 2013 36 mq seems fine . I went all along the bottom And there seems to be a plastic box for each bay it looks solid does yours not have a plastic shell around everything??
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:17 PM   #9
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So with a extended warenty I should be good?
Doubtful, as this is a water intrusion problem and most don't cover that.
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Old 01-27-2017, 03:51 PM   #10
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Thanks for the update I will ask around when I'm there
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:03 AM   #11
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Just finished the job. Nice new HDPE floor. All went well. I did weld in two more cross braces for added support. Probably have about $300 in materials but more labor than anything. Hopefully this will be better than a factory repair since that was where the problem started in the first place.
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:55 PM   #12
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What thickness HDPE panel did you wind up using?
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:54 PM   #13
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So AikenRacer did you take a few pictures of your problem or the fixes? I'd like to see them if you did and being on the west coast I was thinking of using hardy board or star board
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:04 PM   #14
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I used 1/2" thick HDPE. I think it is about the same as Starboard. The pics don't really show up good since the board is black and it is inside of the basement area....
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