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Old 10-29-2022, 12:10 PM   #1
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Winterization questions

Thor Quantum LH26

The manual states to open all low point drains. But doesn't say where they are, and after crawling around underneath and looking inside I can't find a one. The only thing I find underneath, is, where the fresh water drain pipe is, there are two other smaller pipes right next to it. But I can't see anything up top where it goes through the floor.

Next, the tankless water heater. The Thor manual says to turn the bypass valves to bypass position, then fill the fresh water system with antifreeze. To my mind that means that (plain) water is still in the water heater. The water heater manual gives two methods:
* compressed air (opening one tap at a time)
* antifreeze - follow the RV manufacturer instructions.

My inclination at this time is:
1. leave the water heater on-line.
2. run anti-freeze through everything

By the way, the compressed air method is attractive, but am not quite sure how to physically go about it, other than obviously using a regulator to keep pressure down around 30 PSI.
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Old 10-29-2022, 03:59 PM   #2
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I have always used the compressed air at 40 psi method. You will need a decent size compressor and just drain everything you can before blowing out EVERYTHING.

Pour some pink RV antifreeze in the P traps, and you are good for 40 below.

We have an ice maker in the fridge, fresh water filter system at the kitchen sink, outside shower and a washer/drier so it takes a little longer than our old rig.
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Old 10-29-2022, 09:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VH1982 View Post
Thor Quantum LH26

The manual states to open all low point drains. But doesn't say where they are, and after crawling around underneath and looking inside I can't find a one. The only thing I find underneath, is, where the fresh water drain pipe is, there are two other smaller pipes right next to it. But I can't see anything up top where it goes through the floor.

Next, the tankless water heater. The Thor manual says to turn the bypass valves to bypass position, then fill the fresh water system with antifreeze. To my mind that means that (plain) water is still in the water heater. The water heater manual gives two methods:
* compressed air (opening one tap at a time)
* antifreeze - follow the RV manufacturer instructions.

My inclination at this time is:
1. leave the water heater on-line.
2. run anti-freeze through everything

By the way, the compressed air method is attractive, but am not quite sure how to physically go about it, other than obviously using a regulator to keep pressure down around 30 PSI.
Bypass the water heater, pull the drain plug on the water heater. Blow our or antifreeze everything else. If you run antifreeze through the water heater you are needing 6-10 gallons more.
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Old 10-30-2022, 06:50 AM   #4
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I have always used the compressed air at 40 psi method. You will need a decent size compressor and just drain everything you can before blowing out EVERYTHING.
Is there an adapter that goes from NPT to Garden Hose, or did you make one up with parts and pieces?
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Old 10-30-2022, 06:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mnoel View Post
If you run antifreeze through the water heater you are needing 6-10 gallons more.
I guess you missed this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by VH1982 View Post
Next, the tankless water heater.
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Old 10-30-2022, 07:09 AM   #6
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Is there an adapter that goes from NPT to Garden Hose, or did you make one up with parts and pieces?

Amazon has lots to choose from, here’s one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fittings-Comp...s%2C110&sr=8-5
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Old 10-30-2022, 08:41 AM   #7
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I have always used the compressed air at 40 psi method. You will need a decent size compressor and just drain everything you can before blowing out EVERYTHING.
Unfortunately I only have a small one at home - it's 6 gallon but does go to 140 psi so I will give it a try (regulated down to 30-35 psi).

We have a 500 gallon tank with two 7.5 hp screw compressors at work that I can use if this doesn't do the job...
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Old 10-30-2022, 09:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VH1982 View Post
Unfortunately I only have a small one at home - it's 6 gallon but does go to 140 psi so I will give it a try (regulated down to 30-35 psi).

We have a 500 gallon tank with two 7.5 hp screw compressors at work that I can use if this doesn't do the job...
Your compressor will do the job. Just let the pressure build up in your water system to the 30-35 psi and then open one tap at a time. Blow out until no more water comes out. You may have to wait for the pressure to build up a few times, but you will be fine.

I have a portable twin tank compressor similar to yours and have used it to blow out a couple of my friends rigs with success.

Yosemite77 had the link to fittings.
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Old 10-30-2022, 01:21 PM   #9
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I really wanted to get it done this weekend, after the last two failed attempts... Although realistically the next week is pretty "safe". So I went to tractor supply and got some generic fittings that allowed me to connect my NPT compressor to the Garden Hose inlet. I was prepared to have to start the generator (the only semi-level area is over 100' from the nearest house 120 outlet), but I was able to clear all the lines and still had 50 PSI in the tank

Thanks for all the help!
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