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Old 03-16-2020, 09:48 PM   #1
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400 ISL exhaust manifold

Will be replacing the exhaust manifold. It is a two piece. Does anyone know what keeps the two halves where they are put together from leaking?
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:10 AM   #2
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It's a two part manifold. (Google ISL Exhaust Manifold, and look at Images.). Assume the male part that slips into the female for connection, has a material around it? Or, it could just be a tight interference fit... I was lucky enough to write a check for our repair, and never even thought about how the two parts connect!!! Check the male end pictures out...

Good luck!
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:16 AM   #3
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I don't believe there is any type of seal between the 2 parts. I don't know what keeps them from leaking except perhaps exhaust heat.
Be sure and soak the exhaust manifold bolts with a penetrating spray for several days before trying to remove.
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:59 AM   #4
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I had to replace my 2 piece manifold on my 8.3 ISC about 5 years ago. The 2 pieces have no seal but it is a very tight fit. The expansion from the heat forms a seal.



Good luck
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:23 AM   #5
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If youíve ever considered a pyrometer, this is a good time to drill and tap the new manifold before itís installed. Keeping an eye on your EGT might save your new manifold.

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Old 03-17-2020, 11:38 AM   #6
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Not a bad idea Bill. I took a quick look on Amazon. I haven't seen one yet with a 40-foot wire to run up to the dash. I'll keep looking.
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Old 03-17-2020, 11:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I had to replace my 2 piece manifold on my 8.3 ISC about 5 years ago. The 2 pieces have no seal but it is a very tight fit. The expansion from the heat forms a seal.



Good luck
Thanks
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Old 03-17-2020, 06:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monaco Wolfy View Post
Not a bad idea Bill. I took a quick look on Amazon. I haven't seen one yet with a 40-foot wire to run up to the dash. I'll keep looking.

No, but they sell wire an connectors every day...or better yet solder and heat shrink
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Old 03-17-2020, 07:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monaco Wolfy View Post
Not a bad idea Bill. I took a quick look on Amazon. I haven't seen one yet with a 40-foot wire to run up to the dash. I'll keep looking.
I purchased my gauges from Isspro, they have a lot to choose from along with different wire lengths. And, since your running the pyrometer wire, might as well install a wire for a fuel pressure gauge. These are two of my most monitored gauges.

And, since youíve gone this far, and if you have a CAPS injection pump, might as well do the Fass fuel pump conversion. Now that new fuel pressure gauge will have something to read. Fuel pressure gauge doesnít do much with a stock lift pump.

Something to think about.

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Old 03-20-2020, 02:09 PM   #10
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To answer the OP's question, one half of the manifold slips into other half. The mating pieces are machined to a taper and have a tight tolerance. Once the engine starts, the heat expands the union and no leaks, not even any black soot.
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:20 AM   #11
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I would echo what TR4 says and add that this may also be a good time to check your turbo for wear, and then add a $12 boost fooler to lower EGT and pick up a few ponies while you are at it. (TBD) Maybe even faster turbo spool-up... all within the save operating range of less than 30" of Manifold Pressure (boost).

Here is the thread that will give you more information:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/isc...es-482143.html

Also, we need verification a boost fooler will lower your EGT if you go this route. ...Might as well since you have to remove your turbo anyway. If you do modify, please share your results with the rest of us. Thank you!

===> Definitely let 1-2 days go by so that PB-Blaster can soak off the rust on those exhaust bolts. I hear you should plan on breaking 2-3 bolts if you don't let it soak long enough. And I would apply PB-B twice. Then reassemble with anti-seize sealant so the next time, if you have to replace again, those nuts will thread-off more easily.

==> And if you really want to be thorough, you might want to do a smoke test before and after you repair to find other leaks. This includes the exhaust and the cold air tubes. Note: I plan to do this the next time I replace my air cleaner.

Watch this video on how to do a Smoke test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=kmwDGbTqA9Q

Then watch this on how to build your own smoke machine rather than buy one for $150.



Note: I can't speak from personal experience, but I plan to give this a try this summer when I pickup my RV from Storage.

==> Please let know how much time this repair takes!
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