iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
Location: Over the next hill, around the next curve...
Posts: 5,663
It's a two part manifold. (Google ISL Exhaust Manifold, and look at Images.). Assume the male part that slips into the female for connection, has a material around it? Or, it could just be a tight interference fit... I was lucky enough to write a check for our repair, and never even thought about how the two parts connect!!! Check the male end pictures out...
Good luck!
Smitty
__________________
07 Country Coach Magna Rembrandt 45' ISX600 Roo II was our 04 Country Coach Allure 40' OnDRoad for The JRNY! Enjoy life...
I don't believe there is any type of seal between the 2 parts. I don't know what keeps them from leaking except perhaps exhaust heat.
Be sure and soak the exhaust manifold bolts with a penetrating spray for several days before trying to remove.
__________________
Tim
Leesburg, FL '07 American Tradition 40Z Cummins 400 ISL
Towing a '14 Honda CRV Both sold
2021 Vanleigh Beacon 41LKB 5th wheel
I had to replace my 2 piece manifold on my 8.3 ISC about 5 years ago. The 2 pieces have no seal but it is a very tight fit. The expansion from the heat forms a seal.
Good luck
__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
If you’ve ever considered a pyrometer, this is a good time to drill and tap the new manifold before it’s installed. Keeping an eye on your EGT might save your new manifold.
Bill
__________________
2003 Country Coach Intrigue 36'
Cummins ISL 400
Location: Gig Harbor, Washington, Point Fosdick Area
Posts: 283
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames
I had to replace my 2 piece manifold on my 8.3 ISC about 5 years ago. The 2 pieces have no seal but it is a very tight fit. The expansion from the heat forms a seal.
Good luck
Thanks
__________________
2004 40' Monaco Windsor PDQ, Cummins 400hp ISL, 4 slides, Aqua-Hot, 1900 watts solar, Mini Cooper S, Gig Harbor, Washington
Not a bad idea Bill. I took a quick look on Amazon. I haven't seen one yet with a 40-foot wire to run up to the dash. I'll keep looking.
I purchased my gauges from Isspro, they have a lot to choose from along with different wire lengths. And, since your running the pyrometer wire, might as well install a wire for a fuel pressure gauge. These are two of my most monitored gauges.
And, since you’ve gone this far, and if you have a CAPS injection pump, might as well do the Fass fuel pump conversion. Now that new fuel pressure gauge will have something to read. Fuel pressure gauge doesn’t do much with a stock lift pump.
Something to think about.
Bill
__________________
2003 Country Coach Intrigue 36'
Cummins ISL 400
To answer the OP's question, one half of the manifold slips into other half. The mating pieces are machined to a taper and have a tight tolerance. Once the engine starts, the heat expands the union and no leaks, not even any black soot.
I would echo what TR4 says and add that this may also be a good time to check your turbo for wear, and then add a $12 boost fooler to lower EGT and pick up a few ponies while you are at it. (TBD) Maybe even faster turbo spool-up... all within the save operating range of less than 30" of Manifold Pressure (boost).
Here is the thread that will give you more information:
Also, we need verification a boost fooler will lower your EGT if you go this route. ...Might as well since you have to remove your turbo anyway. If you do modify, please share your results with the rest of us. Thank you!
===> Definitely let 1-2 days go by so that PB-Blaster can soak off the rust on those exhaust bolts. I hear you should plan on breaking 2-3 bolts if you don't let it soak long enough. And I would apply PB-B twice. Then reassemble with anti-seize sealant so the next time, if you have to replace again, those nuts will thread-off more easily.
==> And if you really want to be thorough, you might want to do a smoke test before and after you repair to find other leaks. This includes the exhaust and the cold air tubes. Note: I plan to do this the next time I replace my air cleaner.
!
Linear Mode
