Community Forums

Grimesy · 04-29-2011, 11:57 PM

I am getting ready to slide this old body under my motorhome and change the air cleaner on a Cummins 400 ISL. Is there any thing I should be aware of before I start and any idea of price so I don't have a panic attack?

Don.WIT 70041

Chickadee · 04-30-2011, 06:09 AM

Grimesy:

Can't wait for the answers you get. I've been wondering the same thing. Not ready yet, but will need to in the not to distant future.

Steve

rvjimmy · 04-30-2011, 06:34 AM

Changed air filter on my Newmar wasn't bad. On mine I lifted up the bed opened the trap door and there she was, a screwdriver a wrench and the job was done. My other MH I did have to crawl under and that's another story, it was a lot more difficult because of placement an space. If I remember right the filter was about 60 dollars it was called a ECO-Filter or something like that. Good luck and safe travels.

Steve Ownby · 04-30-2011, 09:16 AM

I would recommend calling Winnie customer service & getting the part # from them. Google the # and see what comes up. The price range for air filters is amazing. A large number of them are manufactured by Wix & sold under many different brand labels. All that start with "eco" are Wix.

FleetMan · 04-30-2011, 09:29 AM

Check www.filterbarn.com for prices and brand selection. The air filter price should be close to $100.00. Add an oil filter or two to the order and get free shipping. They had the best price for OE replacement air filter for mine. The site is set up for Fram filters but does allow you to price and order other brands.

bbeane · 04-30-2011, 07:45 PM

Don before you change you air filter, have you checked your restriction guage for the air filter? If it is still in the green range you don't need to change it save your $$$. In fact your air filter reaches it's max eff. after it runs for a while. Also never ever blow the air filter out with an air hose. Depending on the filter they can be pricey. But if you feel inclined to change it , you can pull the filter it will have a manf part # on it Napa is a good source. Napa filters are made by WIX.

Sticks4748 · 05-01-2011, 08:25 AM

Check with K&N they have a new dry/cleanable filter for large diesel.

Arch Hoagland · 05-01-2011, 10:03 AM

You should be aware you'll have a hard time standing back up, depending on how old you are.

Gary RVRoamer · 05-01-2011, 12:29 PM

Mine (370 ISL) is a large metal can from Farr-Eco and runs around $125 or so. And you don't go underneath anything except the engine hatch in the rear cap. It is mounted vertically on the left side as you look into the engine bay from the back.

The size and location of the air filter is determined by the chassis builder, not Cummins (though Cummins specs the amount of air flow required).

jeepsrule · 05-02-2011, 10:51 AM

Mine is in the roadside rear bay with my electrical cable and it's $33 at Oil Filters | Discount filters | Products | Diesel Engine Filters

HeapBigEngin · 05-02-2011, 01:42 PM

Just changed the filter on our ISC Cummins yesterday (2003 FWood Revolution 40' on FLiner chassis). Ours is mounted diagonally at the left rear corner (driver's side) of the coach. All work is done externally, making it fairly easy to change. FLiner installed the filter originally at the factory, so they knew the exact part #. Purchased the filter from local FLiner dealer who matched the best on-line price I could find....AND I know it's the RIGHT filter for our coach. The filter for our MH was in the neighborhood of $90 - $115, depending on the source, including the Discount Filters website.

One suggestion....if you have rubber/neoprene inlet/outlet couplings into which the filter plugs, apply a light coating of silicone spray inside these couplings (per the filter instructions). It will make the installation MUCH easier and will not harm a thing. Also, be sure the filter's metal outlet goes straight into its coupling and that it goes in all the way. That is critical for a proper seal. And don't forget to reset the little plastic filter "thingy" that tells you the filter condition....just push the button on the bottom. Good luck....and I hope yours is as easy to change as ours was.

FleetMan · 05-02-2011, 08:55 PM

It must be air filter season. I changed mine yesterday too, all work must be done from underneath due to the configuration. What I thought should take an hour or less took a bit over two hours but most of the time was spent removing and reinstalling elbows and straight metal tube pieces which had to be removed to get the filter out and back in. Plus repositioning clamps which were factory installed "over the frame rails" prior to body installation with all clamp nuts on top. Isn't it amazing how many components the engineers hang in mid air and build the coach around them? Next filter change should go much quicker.

spike45 · 05-05-2011, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sticks4748

Check with K&N they have a new dry/cleanable filter for large diesel.

K&N is great if you are looking to save money on replacing conventional air filter elements. Be sure to put the "savings" in a bank account earmarked for engine overhaul. A conventional air filter element is at least 99.7% minimum overall efficiency. No K&N can do that with a thin layer of very open media treated with some oil. It is more like an expensive version of a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine air filter, a piece of foam treated with engine oil. The oil is what collects SOME dirt.

K&N claim to fame is increased air flow without going to a larger filter.

Since there is no place in my profile to state this, I am a field service engineer for a Cummins division, Fleetguard.

spike45 · 05-05-2011, 08:49 AM

Many times OEM chassis builders use the Farr Ecolite because it fits in a small area and may be rated for high air flow. Plus, the Ecolite does not need the OEM to provide a means to change elements thus they are able to put it into a more confining space. Operating in the American Southwest is not one of the better environments for this air cleaner, too much dust for a product designed for a "light dust" climate. The bad thing for you is that replacement of that filter assembly requires major removal of boot connectors and some piping. From a maintenance point of view this is very bad. You are forced to disturb joints that would normally stay sealed for the life of the engine. With Ecolite you risk potential for dusting the engine by disturbing the joints and not getting them back as they were. As some have noted, getting the pipe and ends of the air cleaner (especially the clean air side) back into straight alignment is critical. I can attest to that as I have been on several field trips looking at dusted Cummins, Caterpillar, DDC and other construction and mining engines as well as on-highway trucks. Misalignment of piping-to-boot connections has been found to be a dust entry source. Also, if your clean air piping system incorporates plastic pipe, replace that pipe with metal pipe. Plastic clean air piping is VERY sensitive to clamp torque. Over-tightening of hose clamps on plastic pipe boot joints causes the pipe to buckle inward thus becoming an excellent source of dust entry.

I would suggest that you consider replacing the Ecolite filter with a replaceable element housing. There are many housing selections available from Donaldson and Fleetguard. Some work will be required as you need to find a location where the element can be removed from the housing. Be sure to get a housing that has more than the maximum required air flow with a single filter element. Sizing a housing and element to barely meet the air flow requirement will invite more frequent service. Always base service intervals on the air restriction gauge. Change at 20 - 25".