Anyone Use K&N Air Filter on ISL400

[3rd stage]

Originally Posted by hardy1000

Here is the reply from K&N.

Hello Del,

Thank you for contacting K&N and inquiring about our products. The filter we would suggest for your vehicle is:

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=38-2013S

Please let me know if you have any other questions?

Robert Knudsen
Product Specialist

.................................................. ......
What I see in looking at the recommended filter is a filter element with NO canister. If that's true then the filter will draw air from under the coach, which is absolutely the dustiest environment. The results of that should be obvious.
Those coaches that use the standard EECO-type replaceable canister filter draw the intake air from higher up the coach body through duct work. This puts the actual air intake in a much cleaner environment.
What am I missing about the K&N? Is there, in fact a canister that you have to buy that draws air from the stock duct?
Thanks
Andy

[BFlinn181]

I looked at the filter and don't see any technical info. Nothing about filtration size, flow resistance, or cubic inches of air flow. Also as 3rd stage says, in the usual location of air filters on a pusher, it will be sucking dust from the road. I just don't see the advantage. 5% mileage increase offset by engine rebuild?

[Muddypaws]

On motorcycles! They got rebuilt every season.

I tried on on my F250 and I could see dust trails in the intake tube. I replaces it with a Pro-Guard and haven't seen any dust since.

So, NO, I would not recommend K&N.

Yearly filter changes = about $100 a year.

Rebuild after 10 years of dusting? 10 to 20 THOUSAND? More?

[kent342]

I would like to know how everyone feels about the AFe filter. It is the same as the K&N?

[BCooke]

Originally Posted by kent342

I would like to know how everyone feels about the AFe filter. It is the same as the K&N?

The idea on the paper versus the K&N is more the possibility of dust and/or oil making it to the turbo and beyond.

[Chow5656]

Dave,
IF you are a Generac dealer as you say.... I'm confused WHY you would sell something that was such a low end product???

[HicksRA]

Donaldson makes some of the best quality filters in the world. K&N's are mostly OK for normally aspirated engines, but can have very negative effects on turbocharged engines. Oiled filters can foul MAF sensors and not filter well with the high intake flow of a turbo. I also agree that the filter linked above is going to be sucking air from about the worst possible location.
Stick with a Donaldson and know you've got some of the best filtration you can buy.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by kent342

I would like to know how everyone feels about the AFe filter. It is the same as the K&N?

Pretty much.
I used K&N's on my racing motorcycles, rebuilt them yearly too.
I use the stock Ecolite filter on my Dutch Star, no problems in 11 years.

[Genset]

CHow, I agree, and sell very few now, mostly the 12 kw & down, they seem to last a little longer too, but the larger 20 kw air cooled etc are truely a yoke.
These units are sold ONLY due to low price, not because of high quality, Problem I see: the people that buy this quality can not afford a good unit. But they yell and scream as if it was a good unit
After 40+ years in the generator game, I find less & less reason to deal with Generac quality, Amen.
Thanks for asking
Dave M

[WILDEBILL308]

When you call K&N they talk glowingly about how much air the new and improved filter flows but never a word about how much dirt it stops. All you have to do is a simple Goggle search and find many articles testing air filters. You have to use the ISO 5011 test standards on the proper equipment. This way the test is repeatable and consistent.
I wouldn’t run any filter made for my application unless it did well in an ISO 5011 test.
Bill

[Dutch Star Don]

In my younger days, I bought a K&N for every new car I bought. Over the years, I found them to be problematic. Either passing too much dirt or oil getting on the MAP sensor, even when oiled properly.

I just don't trust that they will filter the dirt out as they claim. Sometimes you're willing to gamble with an older car engine, but I certainly can't afford to gamble with that big diesel.

Side Note: Many know that you should never remove and blow off a diesel filter and then replace. You shouldn't even remove them unless you're ready to replace them. Removing and returning the old filter after inspecting it can dump dirt into the housing (obviously talking about non-canister type filters).

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Genset

CHow, I agree, and sell very few now, mostly the 12 kw & down, they seem to last a little longer too, but the larger 20 kw air cooled etc are truely a yoke.
These units are sold ONLY due to low price, not because of high quality, Problem I see: the people that buy this quality can not afford a good unit. But they yell and scream as if it was a good unit
After 40+ years in the generator game, I find less & less reason to deal with Generac quality, Amen.
Thanks for asking
Dave M

Aren't they called Genejunk by some?

[Yukon Jack]

I am also one of those who would NEVER use a K&N air cleaner in an expensive Diesel engine or on any of my daily driven vehicles. On an expensive RV, i would strongly recommend the Donaldson air cleaner that is recommended in their fitment listing or as recommended by Cummins for that approved application.

I did a lot of research on these K&N air filters for our heavy equipment fleet due to the salesman claiming better performance due to better air flow. The truth of the matter is that the K&N filter media has larger micron size pores which not only let's more air in, but unfortunately also more dust as well. And as stated in an earlier posting, it does not take much dust or silica contamination to 'dust wash' an engine which means an expensive overhaul.

In addition, NEVER remove an air cleaner just to inspect it or try to clean it by blowing air back through it in the reverse direction of the natural air flow. If this is done, there is a high risk factor that you will enlarge the size of the pores in the filter media that will then allow more dust in, or you my run the risk of separating the bonding seal between the filter media pleats and the end caps. Plus when reinstalling the used filter, there is a good chance you will knock some dust loose and it will be ingested directly into the intake manifold, thus creating more problems.

The best device to use to determine the condition of these air filter assemblies is a restriction indicator gauge that monitors the vacuum downstream of the air filter. When this restriction indicator begins to approach 18-20 inches water, then it is time to replace the air filter.

Donaldson generally recommends changing the filter assembly at least every 5 years, even if the restriction indicator indicates it is still in good condition. This is because of the increasing potential for the sealing compound between filter media and end cap beginning to break down that could result in small leakage pathways developing through the filter assy.

I know this may not set well with K&N enthusiast, but it is what it is.

[Genset]

Mr_D,

Correct name for that quality.
Dave M