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DreamCatcherVA · 11-02-2021, 09:46 PM

sorry ahead of time for the long winded description...

New (to me) purchase woes. I recently purchased a 2014 Winnebago Tour. First thousand miles or so without a hitch. Then on a trip from VA to FL. Day of departing Engine didn't want to start. After over a dozen tries, engine finally started (note: engine batteries are new and charge). Did an overnight stay in SC, running generator all night to run heater due to temperature drop. About 5AM the generator shutdown with error code 27. Then tried to start the engine, and it would not start. heard a click or 2, but starter wasn't turning over. After a 22 ordeal getting towed to Summerville cummins facility, they started the engine using the solenoid that sits the starter solenoid connecting a wire to the starter positive post. They did this to get me home as they could not work on it for weeks.

Since then I've installed a remote starter using the same too connectors allowing me to simply turn the key to on position and using the remote starter to get the engine started.

Still at a complete lost how to diagnose where the real issue is on the engine... assuming somewhere between the ignition and the solenoid being used to excite the starter. And then there is still the issue with code 27 on the Onan 10K generator...

Any and all ideas would be greatly appreciated.

TwoBirdDogs · 11-03-2021, 05:08 AM

Hope this link may help or maybe points you in the right direction for the generator code 27.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/showthre...errerid=323432

rffowler55 · 11-03-2021, 08:04 AM

When this happened to us last trip it ended up being the starter relay.

96 Wideglide · 11-03-2021, 09:59 AM

I had an error code 27 on my 10kw Onan.

Removed the front of the top cover to get at the 4 wires to follow the troubleshooting procedure, and found one of the 4, the spade connector had come apart.
Plugged it back in and all was well!

DreamCatcherVA · 11-04-2021, 03:21 PM

regarding the engine start issue: Seems the starter relay is working since the remote start cranks the starter, correct? or are you referring to a different relay? Trying to trace the circuit from key to starter is impossible using cummins wiring diagram. I've found the neutral relay in the PDM., haven't found the starter lockout relay which according to Cummins is somewhere up

Ljwt330 · 11-04-2021, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JUlrick

regarding the engine start issue: Seems the starter relay is working since the remote start cranks the starter, correct? or are you referring to a different relay? Trying to trace the circuit from key to starter is impossible using cummins wiring diagram. I've found the neutral relay in the PDM., haven't found the starter lockout relay which according to Cummins is somewhere up

I'm guessing he meant another relay in the circuit from ignition key to starter solenoid (which is the relay you mentioned.)

DreamCatcherVA · 11-10-2021, 08:01 PM

Unfortunately have gotten nowhere with the generator issue. Can't get into a Cummins facility until early January to work on it as well as the engine start issue, but have 2 long distance trips planned to see grand kids over the holidays...so will have to plan trip legs carefully to ensure I have shore power in overnight stays along the way.

When I have final resolution, I'll post in hopes it might help others.

Cheers....

Ray,IN · 11-10-2021, 11:18 PM

You haven't mention the age or condition of your batteries yet, but I assume they are in good condition or your jumper-start switch would not work.
IMO this leave a poor connection in the starting circuitry, perhaps even a broken wire inside its sheathing.

TiffinUser · 11-10-2021, 11:40 PM

In his original post he said the engine batteries were new & charged.

Douglee25 · 11-11-2021, 01:15 AM

You're going to need a volt meter and a helper.

1. Take your volt meter and go to the starter relay. You should find two big lugs for battery cables and two smaller lugs for the coil. One wire on the coil should get 12v when you turn the key. Confirm. The other lug is a ground. Confirm with your ohm scale.

2. Then confirm which side has 12v on the battery lug. The opposite side should go hot once the solenoid is pulled in. Turn the key and test for 12v on the opposite battery lug. Reconfirm by putting your meter on ohms (continuity). One probe on each large lug. The meter should show an open circuit and when the key is turned it should close.

If you have 12v on the coil side but don't have 12v on the battery/starter side, the solenoid is bad. If you don't have 12v at the coil, you gotta go back towards the ignition switch. I'd need a diagram to look at but a lot of times there will be a small relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. If not, replace the ignition switch.

bubby124 · 11-12-2021, 04:55 PM

I found that a bad ground can cause alot of issies

DreamCatcherVA · 12-03-2021, 08:19 AM

I finally resolved the engine start issue. I accidently found a relay marked starter lockout on the front drive side. there is a small cover box on the panel that includes the gen door tray control. I say accidently because I have no documentation in the doc bag about these fuses. Several fuses are the same type... so I switch one out with the starter lockout...and sure enough the engine started right up.... I have a date with Cummins on the Gen 27 error on Jan 3rd if I don't figure it by then.... at least one less issue to worry about....

amosnandy · 12-03-2021, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

You haven't mention the age or condition of your batteries yet, but I assume they are in good condition or your jumper-start switch would not work.
IMO this leave a poor connection in the starting circuitry, perhaps even a broken wire inside its sheathing.

The OP stated in his post that the batteries are new and charged.

I believe he is dealing with 2 separate issues that happened at the same time.

The starter seems to be good since he can jump the relay and it starts.

I got nothing on the generator. A gas one I could point to a couple very common items, but diesel kinda lost.

As far as timeline trying to get it into a dealer. I'm unclear if he is trying an RV dealer or a diesel truck dealer. Maybe his area is different, but I drove truck for a while and no trucking company would put up with a wait until Janruary to have a truck worked on.

Both these issues seem rather simple ones. I would think a good independent truck repair shop can get at it in a few days. I once had a wheel bearing go, found a little redneck truck repair that did everything. Woulda been out of there the next day if the parts had not come wrong on the first try. Sat in their parking lot over the weekend. By 10:00 am Monday I was on the road.

Worst case, call Winnebago. There set appointments are quite a ways out but they have what they call drop off appointments, where they work it in as time allows. I'm fortunate that I live 140 miles from the factory and got a drop off appointment when I had a few problems. They had it 2 weeks, but all was done correctly and at a reasonable price. Of course in Iowa this time of year would require winterizing it.