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Old 10-12-2013, 06:50 PM   #1
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Cummins 8.3 Starter wiring schematic

I have a 2004 Fleetwood Providence 39S on a Freightliner chassis with a Cummings 8.3 engine.
Last weekend I started it twice before leaving on a 130 mile trip. I had no problems during the trip. Upon arrival I parked the coach and left the Genset running. After about 2 1/2 hours I went back to the coach for the return trip. The starter motor had no response when the ignition key was turned to the start position. The voltage did not change when the key was turned. After another 3 hours of looking for blown fuses and loose wires the wrecker arrived. The wrecker driver inspected the ignition wiring and we decided to jumper around the starter solenoid and the engine started right up. I then drove it home and put it in our storage bay. After shutting the engine down I tried to restart the engine and nothing happened.
Diagnosing the problem to be a bad starter solenoid I ordered a replacement starter motor with solenoid. After installation I attempted to start the engine and had the same response when I turned the key. Nothing.
Does anybody have a Freightliner schematic or wiring diagram of how the starter motor is activated. Fuses, relays wiring routing etc.
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:12 AM   #2
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Don, there is no "jumpering" around the starter solenoid. What the wrecker driver did was energize the solenoid directly rather than thru your starter relay - that proved your starter and solenoid were ok. Sorry you changed it for nothing :-( It's been over a week since you posted and nobody has answered, so I'll chime in on the obvious.... call Freightliner and using your VIN or Coach serial # they can probably fax/email you a good set of wiring diagrams for the starting/charging portion of your chassis.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:56 AM   #3
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Update

Thank You for your response. I was beginning to think that I had somehow not entered the information correctly and I was the only one seeing it.http://www.irv2.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

I had applied to Access Freightliner and have not received approval so today I called them and they sent me to a local dealer to get the warranty information transferred from a previous owner to me and now I have reapplied with Access Freightliner. In case others apply be sure and use Windows Exployer to fill out the application as Google Chrome will not link properly with Freightliner's system resulting in delays.

For what it is worth, the reason I thought that the solenoid was bad was that the hot wire to the solenoid did not activate the motor so we used a large battery wire and connected the battery lead to the motor output side of the solenoid. Lots of sparks! but the motor started the engine.

During my wait for drawings I have removed the ignition switch and tested to insure that it is making proper contact in the different key positions. I have also removed and checked all of the ignition relays located under the front dash. I am eagerly awaiting schematics which I hope will show me if and where any hidden fuse-able links and/or relays are located.

I'll send out an update as soon as I find out more.

And Thank you again for the response.

Don
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:21 PM   #4
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Check your battery cables. The ends tend to corrode inside the crimps especially after 9 years. The problem will not be visually obvious and the problem can occur suddenly.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:26 AM   #5
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There is a Starter - Relay Solenoid somewhere in the engine compartment or close by- Just trace the small wire on the Starter Solenoid back to it- This also activates and locks in the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid when the starter is activated.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:37 AM   #6
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Yup--most diesel engine starters are hot wired to the bats directly and a secondary solenoid [low amps] is used to energize the primary solenoid on the starter. Three areas to check: 1--Find the secondary solenoid and verify that it is working; 2--make sure your ignition switch is sending power to the secondary in start mode/position; and 3--check/clean both your positive and ground cables at the starter and batteries to ensure good contact. Corroded cables may show proper voltage but wont carry a starter amp load.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:11 PM   #7
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Found It ! ! !


Initial checks of the batteries did not indicate a weakness or battery terminal issue so I began tracing the ignition system from the ignition key to the engine.
I removed the switch from the dash by turning the key to the accessory position and using a straightened paperclip to push the spring cylinder retainer inside that little hole next to the key down and gently turning the key further to the left to remove the key cylinder core from the switch. Be sure and note how the core comes out as you will need to reverse the process when inserting the core back into the switch.
I removed the chrome bezel around the switch which allows the switch to be removed out the back of the dash.
Removing the wire plug from the back of the switch is difficult but if your use two small screwdrivers to hold the clips back you can wiggle the wire plug until it come off without damaging the clips or pulling the wires loose.

I reinstalled the key core into the switch and verified that the terminals on the back of the switch were being activated as the key was switched. I checked this with both a Ohm meter and by connecting a battery to the “Batt” terminal and measuring voltage on each of the the output terminals. The battery check was to insure that the switch was not failing under load.

Next I checked the ignition switch and the inline connectors under the dash to verify that they were tight and making contact.
I checked all of the fuses and relays associated with the ignition with no faults.
We then proceeded to look for the rumored and illusive Starter Relay that I suspected to be between the dash and the starter solenoid on the starter motor.

In the darkness of the underside of our coach with flashlights in hand we followed the wiring harness not knowing what evil lurks waiting to pounce on us. From the front of the coach carefully moving along the bottom to a spot hidden behind a steel plate, partially covered by two wiring harnesses and snuggled up to the bottom of the frame. In the dark was the evil thing with two fangs protruding, could it be? yes , you guessed it, the Starter Relay.




Upon pulling the wiring harnesses back it was easy to see that one wire had been vibrated to the point of metal fatigue and the eyelet end of the wire from the front of the ignition switch had broke off. See photo above. The connector eyelet is still under the bottom nut on the left. We cut off the old connector, installed a new one and placed it under the nut on the relay. We also positioned the wire so the two harnesses would not vibrate and rub against the wire in hopes of preventing a future failure.

So now the moment of truth. I turned the key to the on position and the dash came to life. Then with a big breath and a swallow I turned the key to the start position and the Purple Beast came to life. YES ! ! !
Look out world! If you see a Purple and Gold Providence on the highway honk and wave and Have Fun.

To my son who did most of the work under the coach and all of you who helped with your suggestions and hints. Thank You.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #8
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Excellent !
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:13 PM   #9
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Insurance issues potential problem with your wiring

NOTE: Nationwide better refered to in the insurance industry for RV or Motorhome Insurance as Allied Insurance DOES NOT cover damage caused by a wiring fire. PLEASE look at your policies carefully as Allied will not cover what they call fires from Mfg defects, and wear and tear. Should your RV have caught on fire and was extinguished you would have been left to flip the bill like I was. On top of that you can expect Allied will treat you like dirt on the entire claims process. They are the worst and I mean worst insurance company I could have ever dealt with. I am a very honorable man and put out the FIRE myself from a situation similar to what was stated in this post but the moral of the story here is to let your RV burn. The insurance company will not pay for repairs to wiring but they will pay for anything that happens AFTER the wiring caused the problem. They will not pay the thousands of dollars to replace that harness properly which in most cases is a very long and expensive harness. FYI think about it and read your policy carefully...
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