Community Forums

AcftEngr · 06-12-2020, 09:28 AM

I have reread the entire thread - to help diagnose this problem for a friend! Unfortunately my friend has passed away and I'm now trying to help get the issue resolved to sell the MH.

It is a 2009 Winnie Journey - handicap access! Approx 1 1/2 yrs ago I changed the water pump due to it leaking. Yes I unknowingly removed radiator and CAC to make my way to the pump. I DO NOT RECOMMENDED doing this as it took me a while and it was miserable!

After, the thermostat was changed and now the two temp sensors.

Well on a test drive earlier this week it began to hit elevated temps.

Upon contacting FL --- I was finally able to locate the fuse box...yes behind the panel in the shore power compartment. This one was never meant to have access! Not 4 screws ...the entire panel had to be removed. I added couple pictures, not sure why some are rotated?

Well - I pulled the fuse and no difference whether done before starting or running. Relay is also good. I then wired a switch on the 5A fuse ...neither position 12v on or 12v off made no difference.

Late yesterday as I was giving up ....on a restart (engine temp at 125)- my streamer indicated air flow from the fan. It ran for approx 3 min. I got excited as I had deduced the clutch failed! Well it was short lived!

I then tried the fuse trick again and nothing. I am tempted having FL change the clutch but am afraid it is not the total fix. Alternatively - should I just remove the clutch as indicated above w a spacer/fan?

Has anyone mounted a large external electric thermostatic fan on the rear ?

I would like any advice - I would like to maybe hear from anyone on whether the fuse trick works as it has no affect on this coach. Maybe the clutch is in/out and when I tried the fuse it was out and had no effect? I followed the Tech Bulletin and get 9 - 12 ohms from the clutch but measured near the relay.

ziaptrn · 06-19-2020, 07:54 PM

Hello all -
A brief follow up and status on the direct-drive replacement.
We are on the road and have driven 2 full days up multiple steep inclines (6% plus for over 8 miles yesterday and then 25 miles today...then back down) and have experienced zero problems. We are towing our Honda CRV.
The temps have stayed at 193 or less with a single episode of 197 degrees with outdoor temps in the mid-90s.
I will calculate fuel mileage when this tank runs out, but so far I am very pleased with the performance and cooling capability of the SourceEngineering fan.
Safe travels every one...
John

scooterbob · 06-20-2020, 03:37 AM

Sounds good John , we leave on a 800 mile trip today hopefully the new clutch fan does the job.

RichKimball · 06-20-2020, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AcftEngr

I have reread the entire thread - to help diagnose this problem for a friend! Unfortunately my friend has passed away and I'm now trying to help get the issue resolved to sell the MH.

I would like any advice - I would like to maybe hear from anyone on whether the fuse trick works as it has no affect on this coach. Maybe the clutch is in/out and when I tried the fuse it was out and had no effect? I followed the Tech Bulletin and get 9 - 12 ohms from the clutch but measured near the relay.

The fuse removal is only used to verify the fan clutch is indeed bad. While possible that relays etc can go bad...I don't think in reality they have anything to do with with the Horton fan clutch.
Sad to say you're going to replace the fan clutch. You can do it yourself if you are in fact handy enough where you removed radiator/CAC for the water pump!

I replaced my fan clutch through the bedroom floor access after cutting an 8x10 hole in my fan shroud (initially cut this for easy cleaning of the inside of the CAC/radiator). Sheet metal cover with weatherstripping and self tapping screws holds the air in afterward. The whole clutch fan replacement took me about 1 1/2 hours.....and I was pleased I didn't pay FL $2K to do it. The price of the clutch was the only bad part...but my parts counter clerk gave me a 'good guy discount' of $50 making it $600.

Good luck.

rodrickc · 08-13-2020, 01:52 PM

I am brand new to RV'ing and read this whole thread and am amazed at all the great people over the years commenting. So the thread says ISB 340 I have a 360 turbo. I am hoping the issues are the same. Had original low coolant issues... and air compressor, thermostat and radiator flushed. All was great on first 500 mile round trip. Next went to fuel it, and one mile down the road overheated and redlined it and saw fan wasn't on. Fueled, returned and almost redlined it. Turned it on again, no fan but couldn't bring the temp up. So I am going to try to pull the fuse (find it, then pull it. - 2011 Tuscany). Can anyone tell me where and what switch to buy if I want to install a switch. I understand the concept now, but willing to leave fuse out for a trip? Everyone on this topic has been great. Unbelievable to think so many with the same problem. I guess fortunate for me I am 15 min from Cummings and 1 hour from Gaffney.

ziaptrn · 08-13-2020, 02:05 PM

Hi and as another RV friend would say.... Welcome to the Asylum!

My best advice for finding the fuse would be to call Thor and ask where they put the PDM (Power Distribution Module) that has the radiator fan fuse in it. The RV manufacturers installed them in wildly differing places, and the fastest way to know would be to call Thor directly, in my opinion. Freightliner and Cummins will not know where the module was placed.

Inside the module is a 5amp fuse that you pull and it should lock the fan "on" continuously when removed.

When I tried the switch gambit - pretty much any 12v SPST (single pole, single throw) switch will do. There is minimal current through the switch...as I understand it, just the signal for the fan to kick on the relay and engage the fan clutch (or disengage in this instance). So... switch examples:

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...qPIZK&usqp=CAc

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...MY3X4&usqp=CAc

Where you put the switch would be up to you - run wires all the way to the dash, or put it close to the PDM (wherever that is located).

If any of this is unclear, please let me know... this should give you a start.

John

krautkamper · 08-13-2020, 02:37 PM

If your fan clutch is bad, pulling the fuse or adding a switch will not accomplish anything. The fluid leaks out of the clutch and without it no viscosity can be generated and therefore the clutch will never engage. It has to be replaced. I just went through this on mine...

rodrickc · 08-13-2020, 03:45 PM

Thanks so much for this. I will follow up.

rodrickc · 08-13-2020, 03:46 PM

Thanks. I will pull it first... that is my cheapest route before a switch. And yes that would make sense.

rodrickc · 08-14-2020, 01:19 PM

Well, let me say this was helpful to find the PDM. Called Thor... they said freightliner. Freightliner was super helpful. Found the Erans Controls Chassis fuses. Opened up like everyone said, pulled the square fan fuse. Started up and my fan still does not blow. I thought for sure I was on to something? So back to square one. Not sure where to look next.

rodrickc · 08-14-2020, 02:05 PM

This helped... made me go back and realize i pulled the relay and not fan clutch. I posted at the end on page 15. However when I put the relay back in and pulled the switch 5A my fan still doesn't come on??

krautkamper · 08-14-2020, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodrickc

This helped... made me go back and realize i pulled the relay and not fan clutch. I posted at the end on page 15. However when I put the relay back in and pulled the switch 5A my fan still doesn't come on??

It is most likely your fan clutch. ~$2K to have Freightliner replace. What year is your coach?

RichKimball · 08-14-2020, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodrickc

This helped... made me go back and realize i pulled the relay and not fan clutch. I posted at the end on page 15. However when I put the relay back in and pulled the switch 5A my fan still doesn't come on??

If the fan clutch is indeed getting power....then the clutch is bad. I really would want to make sure the fan WAS getting power. It's the ECM that switches a ground on/off to control the fan I believe. Attached is a fan schematic from Freightliner. They are the ones who will know and to service. I haven't ever heard about the fan not blowing at all...only that it was not blowing fast enough.