Community Forums

danes-on-tour · 04-13-2010, 05:26 PM

My RV has an Cummins ISL 400 engine. That holds 24 quarts of engine oil which makes an oil change difficult to handle as a do-it-yourself job. Every time I need an oil change I go looking for places that will just change my oil and filter but most places either don't want to touch a diesel RV at all, or want to provide (and charge for) a service over and above what I really need.

I prefer to do most maintenance jobs myself (only limited by my non-automotive background) and I have thought up a plan that will make it possible for me to do an oil change my self.

I plan to fit a oil drain plug with a valve, like this one. This will enable me to control the flow of oil into more manageable containers when draining.

Did anyone of you do this? Did it work for you? Any reason why I shouldn't do this?

Chuck 1935 · 04-13-2010, 06:35 PM

I also change my own diesel oil, but put the plug back in to change containers. I like the idea of the valve and it looks like it can't get knocked of by a flying rock which was my only concern. Also wear rubber gloves. The old oil is like ink !!

KIX · 04-13-2010, 06:44 PM

I do all my own service so I understand your issue. I installed a Fumoto (like your link) valve and it works quite well. It drains on the slow side but you can do an oil change without spilling a single drop. ON my valve a short drain hose can be added to get in the 1 gallon waste container easily.
One other tip for you is to buy a Snap-On strap wrench for removing the oil filter. I have tried other brands of strap wrenches without success. The Snap-On has not failed me.

lonestarace · 04-13-2010, 07:00 PM

I like both the Fumoto and the Quick Changer PNW Products -- Oil Change Device

EngineerMike · 04-13-2010, 07:24 PM

I haven't changed my own yet. Was planning to but got a quote for $96 at a joint next to the Flying J somewhat near me, and a full wash for $38.50 next to that. Now I'm on the fence solely due to the pain of oil disposal. Seems when I need to dump oil, every NAPA, Kragen, etc. in town is suddenly "full" and isn't accepting oil.

I've had the same reticence about the extra-length plug/valve setups as stated above (and heard lots of similar concern), and heard nothing but good real world experience about them all the while. Another method is vacuum. I bought the Pela Pro 14 vacuum bottle setup and have used it for some time on my toad. Works like a charm. Takes a while. The moho will require two jugs worth, so I'll have to dump the first batch to 5 gallon pales for transport to the recycler, or head somewhere I can unload that first 14qts oil before finishing the oil removal (27qts in mine IIRC).

I'm told you can avoid the mess of the oil filter head's worth of oil spilling down the sides of the filter can by punching the can bottom and draining to a container in the usual gravity fashion. Not sure how much mess that actually saves. Any experience w/that routine here?

RJay · 04-13-2010, 07:35 PM

I'm going to look for a Speedco shop if one is in the area, otherwise I'm going to use my Fumoto.

69RoadRunner · 04-13-2010, 07:46 PM

I used Speedco last Friday. I have a Fumoto valve. I was going to do it myself, but they did 17 quarts for my ISB, Fleetguard oil filter, 2 Fleetguard fuel filters, 3 quarts for the generator, generator oil and fuel filter, lube and check a bunch of other stuff for just over $220.

Add up the cost of the filters and oil and you're well on your way to $200.

KIX · 04-13-2010, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EngineerMike

I'm told you can avoid the mess of the oil filter head's worth of oil spilling down the sides of the filter can by punching the can bottom and draining to a container in the usual gravity fashion. Not sure how much mess that actually saves. Any experience w/that routine here?

Yep, I use a 16" diameter round pan about 4 " deep. Punch a hole in the bottom of the filter with a phillips head screw driver. If your good you can get a wide mouth funnel and let it catch the filter's oil and drain it into a gallon jug or larger.....depending your filter size.

I change my own oil not only to save a few bucks but when I do it I know I tightened the filter and drain plug without over tightening them.

danes-on-tour · 04-13-2010, 08:08 PM

Thank you all for your input.

Anyone know which size plug I would need to replace the original plug in the ISL 400?

I could take the original out and measure it, but something tells me that this might not be the way to go

KIX · 04-13-2010, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Danes Are Coming

Thank you all for your input.

Anyone know which size plug I would need to replace the original plug in the ISL 400?

I could take the original out and measure it, but something tells me that this might not be the way to go

If you have a way to "size" the plug if it were in your hand you can remove the plug without losing any oil. Use your shop vacuum and "seal" it to the oil fill tube with a wet rag. Have someone turn the vacuum on and hold it to the oil fill tube while you remove the plug. You won't lose any oil as long as the vacuum it running and "connected".

Spider · 04-13-2010, 09:02 PM

I put one on my 400 isl last year. Will test it out next month when I change the oil. If you look up your year and engine size it will tell you which valve you need to order. Good luck

Tom and Patty · 04-14-2010, 01:23 AM

I have the Fumoto valve. It makes removing and replacing the oil filter the hardest part of the job. That filter full of oil weighs a bunch when it is suspended over my head at arms length during the install. I always put plastic wrap over the filter and pull it off (making sure I have it all

) when it is near the filter housing. I also spray the engine down to remove grit before the oil change, keeps the dirt out of my eyes

.

Go for it!!

EM, IIRC (changed oil a few weeks ago) the filter doesn't drip much when spinning it off. You do have to be careful when tipping it into the bucket

. I do it myself because I'm a "CB" (Cheap B**T) Plus like above, I know it's right....or who to blame......Patty

H. Miller · 04-14-2010, 06:15 AM

We called a Fumoto dealer (Lubrication Specialists) and was advised that Cummins engs. drains came in many sizes even with the same engine! They would need the engine type/size/year of mfg. and serial number before shipping as far to many were returned.

Spider · 04-14-2010, 08:00 AM

I found the original package that my valve came in. I have a 2005 Monaco Dynasty with a 400 isl cummins. The part number for the valve is F-104. The package says for thread size 18mm-1.5