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Old 08-24-2019, 07:55 AM   #1
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Engine quits

I have a 2007 coachmen, 5.9 Cummins, 2500 mh Allison, model 376ds. When I start the engine it will just stop as if I turned key off. Sometimes a fault code is generated and sometimes nothing. It will happen intermittently sometimes takes 6 or 7 restarts before it stays running. Every time a fault code is generated it is a different code. When I get it running I’ve drive hundreds of miles without issue. It doesn’t happen every time I start it. Examples of codes: SPN 22679 CM 1 FMI 15 OC 127 . SPN 2175 CM 1 FMI 15 OC 1. Usually have comment like data invalid or erratic, or data fine but below or above normal. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:08 AM   #2
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Hi, and welcome!

Folks here really get involved with finding solutions. Sometimes it's like they are on a mission. Can you tell us what errors those codes represent?
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:14 AM   #3
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I would start with fuel filter replacement.

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Old 08-24-2019, 10:40 AM   #4
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Wish I could help but I'm about as far from being a mechanic as you can get!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:45 AM   #5
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You may have a multi wire connector that's loose. They can have poor contacts and cause strange things like your getting.

Look all around the engine compartment for wire bundles that go to connectors.

If it was a fuel or filter problem, you wouldn't be driving hundreds of miles once it started.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:51 AM   #6
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You may have a multi wire connector that's loose. They can have poor contacts and cause strange things like your getting.

Look all around the engine compartment for wire bundles that go to connectors.

If it was a fuel or filter problem, you wouldn't be driving hundreds of miles once it started.
Agreed, crap in the fuel will cause balking that usually begins on up-hill grades and progresses to more and more often. It's like a limp-home situation that gives you warning before you can't start the rig.
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Old 08-24-2019, 06:39 PM   #7
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Changed both filters and water separator, noticed today that the voltage drops just before The rpm drops, no codes and it stayed running but rpm fluctuating, it seemed like everything went normal when the air compressor kicked out
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Old 09-29-2019, 10:03 PM   #8
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I have a very similar problem. Mine does it after sitting all night. The first start of the day dies immediately, but all other starts of the day are fine. I’ve changed both fuel filters and it makes no difference. I have read somewhere that it may be sucking in air and that first start of the day dies because of air in the fuel system. Now I just need to find a possible fuel leak.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:37 AM   #9
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I have a very similar problem. Mine does it after sitting all night. The first start of the day dies immediately, but all other starts of the day are fine. I’ve changed both fuel filters and it makes no difference. I have read somewhere that it may be sucking in air and that first start of the day dies because of air in the fuel system. Now I just need to find a possible fuel leak.
A long time ago I had similar issues. I installed a glowshift multi gauge to show fuel pressure, boost etc. I also installed a check valve inline with supply to the fuel pump to stop any backflow to the tank.

When starting the ISB it is important to bump the starter as it will cause the fuel pump to run and charge the V44 injector pump for 25 seconds. If you install a fuel pressure gauge after the final filter you would see the fuel pressure rise to about 17 pounds when you bump the starter with the keyswitch. just turning on the ignition key will not run the pump long enough to bring up the pressure.

You may have a small air leak that allow the fuel to fall back to the tank. That will not show up when pressurized but all air to suck in when stopped.
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:40 AM   #10
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Check to see if your fuel tank vent hose is plugged. I had the same problem with the engine starting and then stalling, intermittently. If your fuel tank is more than 3/4's full, the negative vacuum created by the clogged vent hose is minimal and the issue doesn't show up. If your tank is less than 3/4's full, it will cause fuel delivery problems. The engine will start and then die and then after a while it will keep running.

Not sure this is your problem but something to consider.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:29 AM   #11
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Check to see if your fuel tank vent hose is plugged. I had the same problem with the engine starting and then stalling, intermittently. If your fuel tank is more than 3/4's full, the negative vacuum created by the clogged vent hose is minimal and the issue doesn't show up. If your tank is less than 3/4's full, it will cause fuel delivery problems. The engine will start and then die and then after a while it will keep running.

Not sure this is your problem but something to consider.
I too had the problem with the "overturn" valve vent. Also the fuel cap was stuck both contributed to a vacuum condition in the tank. Both were gummed up from dried fuel. cleaned the cap with carb cleaner and used light air pressure to break open the top tank valve. that was a long time ago and caused me to replace the lift and V44 pump.
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Old 10-01-2019, 05:41 AM   #12
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Have someone verify the operation of the fuel shut off solenoid. Turn key on and bump starter, that should trigger the solenoid to open and then it should stay open. Or turn engine over if it starts and keeps running solenoid should stay open. If it triggers open with key on start and engine starts, let go of key and solenoid closes with letting go of key solenoid is bad.


Read next couple of posts, 99 bounder start/run issues. It shows fuel solenoid info.
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Old 10-08-2019, 06:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by broadrun View Post
Check to see if your fuel tank vent hose is plugged. I had the same problem with the engine starting and then stalling, intermittently. If your fuel tank is more than 3/4's full, the negative vacuum created by the clogged vent hose is minimal and the issue doesn't show up. If your tank is less than 3/4's full, it will cause fuel delivery problems. The engine will start and then die and then after a while it will keep running.

Not sure this is your problem but something to consider.


Thank you for the great information. Do you have to drop the tank to get to the vent hose?
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Old 10-09-2019, 04:32 AM   #14
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Thank you for the great information. Do you have to drop the tank to get to the vent hose?
To get the the valve , yes have to drop the tank but to check the hose which lays out the back of the tank, try pinching the tube. work from the top to the bottom. If you get some dried mud then it would have been mud wasp. After wards use one of those little red hand pumps from harbor freight to try to suck on the hose. It should be a vacuum condition. the try the other side of the pump and blow air into the tank. If the valve is stuck build pressure till it breaks free. Also try taking of the fuel cap, put a rag in the filler neck to prove that the tank cap is not stuck too.. You could try to suck on the inside of the cap to make sure it is not stuck too. I had both of these venting issues.
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