Fuel Filter Prime?

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by BigNick1

Plum scary... where's the lift pump at?

The lift pump, at least on our 2003 ISL is electric and on the passenger's side of the block.


Cycle the key and LISTEN on the right side of the back of the coach. It should run for about 30 seconds.


Cycle the key a couple of times and when you hear the pump go from high RPM (pumping air) to "normal speed" (pumping fuel) you are done.


Scary?????


Again-- and IMPORTANT: All engines are not the same in terms of how they are primed. Verify for YOUR engine with your engine manufacturer for your engine serial number.


We have had three different diesel pushers with three different engines and three different "how to primes".

[moisheh]

Fleetguard actually recommends a prefill. The filter comes with a plug for the centre hole. Thay are plastic. Same as what hydraulic shops use in the end of a new hose. The Fleetguard has instructions (diagram) printed on the filter
Never use atf. It has a fine abrasive

[BigNick1]

Originally Posted by shootist

You are chancing introducing dirt directly into your 3500$ for a rebuilt + labor caps pump. Why do you think letting the lift pump fill them is not proper? That is what it is designed to do. Then no chance of unfiltered fuel in your high pressure injection pump.

Its an interesting question. I can see your point about introducing crud into the injector pump. The first time I changed the filters I used the dry method, it took about 4 key cycles and it started, I had no way to listen to the pump as I was alone... Anyway, on this last trip I could feel the engine surging about 50 miles east of Midland Tx, I pulled off to look for my spares and they were no where to be found, so I got on Cummins Online and found a Cummins shop on the east side along I20, I called and they had the filters so I limped in and got them. This is where the question comes from, it was slow, days end at the shop and the shop manager gives me the advice to prime the filters, just fill up with fresh fuel, that way I wont burn up my lift pump he says. I go across the street get a diesel fuel can from the auto parts store and buy 2 gallons of fuel and fill them up just prior to installing.

She starts right up, problem solved but, it begs the question to fill or not to fill.

[Flanz]

I fill the primary….The fleet guard, FS1065, that I use on our coach has a removable center plug. The plug forces the fuel down the outside holes of the filter which in turn filters the fuel. Then you remove the plug and install the filter.

I was also told, by Cummins, to fill at least the primary filter when changing fuel filters. The service manage, forgot name, at Cummins Ocala told me this. I think within one or two key cycles the coach fires up.

I’ve been doing this since I purchased the coach new in 2016. Never a problem..

[hypoxia]

If you fill the filter, posts 14, 16 & 18 are correct. If you pour it into the center hole it is not filtered. That's what Camp Freightliner teaches.

They also teach to do whatever the engine manufacturer recommends.

From the Camp Freightliner Book:

Cummins engine customers please remember these are only recommendations.
1. Remove the fuel cap and then reinstall the cap.
a. This will release any pressure or vacuum build up.
2. Get a plastic bucket like a sand pail and put plastic garbage bag in the bottom of the bucket
put about 2 inches of sand
in the bottom and then put a layer of charcoal briquettes. Please use the non lighter fluid soaked.
This will help reduce the odor when you seal the bag up.
3. Put the bucket under the filter and use a strap wrench or a fuel
filter wrench and remove the filter and dump it upside down in the plastic bucket and let it drain.
4. Follow the directions on the fuel filter and lube the o ring on the on the fuel filter and the
filter instructions show to put fuel in the filter before installation???? This is important the
manuals say put on dry. the filters show to add fuel???? What do I do?
5. if you put a plastic glove on and put your finger in the middle hole and add fuel around the
outside holes till the filter is full. Now you can re-install the fuel filter and and tighten.
6. Wash your hands and now turn the key on and wait 2 minutes start your coach and do not allow the
coach to idle as soon as it starts rev the engine up to 1600 RPM and allow the engine to skip and
sputter till it clears up and runs smooth.
Page 123

[Fiesta48]

Originally Posted by Roy1

The first time I changed filters I didn’t fill them first . Had a real problem starting the engine wound up pressurizing the fuel tank to get it started. Be sure you turn off the fuel shut off valve located at the first filter on my coach . when you remove the filters if the valve isn’t shut off the fuel can drain back into the tank! This will really create a problem having no fuel in the lines.

Same here, must fill filters before reinstalling.
Put 1 gal. diesel can inside another container to contain smell.

[vseasport]

I have always filled my filters with ATF. It is not messy, doesn't smell and there are just empty quart bottles to throw away. After start up I always wait to see oil pressure on the gauge before accelerating. It only take a moment.

[BigNick1]

Originally Posted by vseasport

I have always filled my filters with ATF. It is not messy, doesn't smell and there are just empty quart bottles to throw away. After start up I always wait to see oil pressure on the gauge before accelerating. It only take a moment.

Wait,,,, you put ATF in the fuel filters?

[vseasport]

Originally Posted by BigNick1

Wait,,,, you put ATF in the fuel filters?

Yes, more than 30 years ago a trusted diesel mechanic advised that a diesel can run on straight ATF and that my motor would last longer, run cleaner and preform better if it was used as an additive. I have added a quart at every fuel fill up ever since.

Before retiring last year I owned and operated three deluxe twin engine fishing cruisers with marine Cummins motors. We added a quart of ATF for every hundred gallons of fuel and noticed less smoke build up on the transoms. Before winter storage we would fill the fuel filters with ATF and then start and run the motors long enough to get it through the whole fuel system and into the injectors. In tens of thousands of hours we never experienced a fouled injector or lost an injection pump. At overhaul time (12,000 hrs more or less) the motors were clean as a whistle inside with no sludge or carbon buildup. Also, we never had algae grow in a fuel tank in storage while other operators experienced problems.

The only caveat is I have no experience with DEF motors.

[wolfe10]

We keep getting (mostly) good posts about what works to prime the fuel system in THEIR coach/engine fuel system.


You need to do what is recommended for YOUR fuel system.


We have had three different DP's over the last 23 years. Three different diesel engines and most importantly THREE DIFFERENT MEANS OF PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM.


PLEASE, PLEASE do what is recommended for your engine, not someone else's.

[Bylandorsea]

Originally Posted by shootist

You are chancing introducing dirt directly into your 3500$ for a rebuilt + labor caps pump. Why do you think letting the lift pump fill them is not proper? That is what it is designed to do. Then no chance of unfiltered fuel in your high pressure injection pump.

I agree, you do not want unfiltered fuel in your high pressure injection pump!

[Bylandorsea]

Originally Posted by Fiesta48

Same here, must fill filters before reinstalling.
Put 1 gal. diesel can inside another container to contain smell.

Where did you find a one gallon diesel can? I have looked and looked!

[Bylandorsea]

Originally Posted by hypoxia

If you fill the filter, posts 14, 16 & 18 are correct. If you pour it into the center hole it is not filtered. That's what Camp Freightliner teaches.

They also teach to do whatever the engine manufacturer recommends.

From the Camp Freightliner Book:

Cummins engine customers please remember these are only recommendations.
1. Remove the fuel cap and then reinstall the cap.
a. This will release any pressure or vacuum build up.
2. Get a plastic bucket like a sand pail and put plastic garbage bag in the bottom of the bucket
put about 2 inches of sand
in the bottom and then put a layer of charcoal briquettes. Please use the non lighter fluid soaked.
This will help reduce the odor when you seal the bag up.
3. Put the bucket under the filter and use a strap wrench or a fuel
filter wrench and remove the filter and dump it upside down in the plastic bucket and let it drain.
4. Follow the directions on the fuel filter and lube the o ring on the on the fuel filter and the
filter instructions show to put fuel in the filter before installation???? This is important the
manuals say put on dry. the filters show to add fuel???? What do I do?
5. if you put a plastic glove on and put your finger in the middle hole and add fuel around the
outside holes till the filter is full. Now you can re-install the fuel filter and and tighten.
6. Wash your hands and now turn the key on and wait 2 minutes start your coach and do not allow the
coach to idle as soon as it starts rev the engine up to 1600 RPM and allow the engine to skip and
sputter till it clears up and runs smooth.
Page 123

That is some great information. Thanks!!

[nehog]

Fleetguard (Cummins) recommends prefilling filters (from the outside, never down the center) before installing. Personally I'd recommend Diesel fuel, which is what I use. Kerosene does not have any lubricating properties and is therefore hard on the fuel injection system--I don't recommend ever using kerosene for any purpose on a standard diesel engine.