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Still would like to see some pictures as I am about to tackle the same job..!
Sorry for the delay, DW had a stroke a few weeks ago and that's kept me busy. She's doing wonderfully, thanks to prompt and good medical care, and is back to normal.
I'll try to get to this in a couple of days!
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My name is Peter, and I'm never going to grow up.
- Winnebago Era 2010 Class B
- Holiday Rambler 2006 Ambassador 40-DFD Class A
We were traveling through SD and had the top line crack at the bottom corner in the back. I got to a gas station and with the help of one of the locals was able to locate the leak as it was evident when under pressure and just happened to be facing out as you are looking at it. I removed it, epoxied and taped it up with black electrical tape. It held for a while but did start leaking again eventually but I could get about a 100 miles to the gallon of water. It would trigger the check engine light when the level fell below the sensor so I would just dump in a gallon and keep going. We were only a couple hundred mile from home so it wasn't to big of a deal.
I contemplated cutting the tube and installing a heater hose but was a little concerned that I would not be able to get the hose to seal against the tube well enough, especially if the OD of the tube wasn't really close to ID of the hose and I had a limited amount of options at the Napa that was near by.
Which leads me to my question I have for others who may have experienced this same problem. I have found a place in South Dakota that makes replacement stainless steel lines for about $95 each that I could purchase and install. OR would finding a heater hose that is a snug fit and hose clamp it in there be a better option?
The reason I suggest the hose is because I believe the crack in the corner I saw may be due to vibration over the years, this is a 2010 model 8.3 ISC. So the hose would remedy that issue but if it was due to corrosion, as I also saw evidence of that, the SS would also resolve the issue.
To clarify if it didn't make sense, my description of installing the hose would be to cut both ends of the tube off and leave 3 or 4 inches to slide the hose over and just use the fittings to mate the hose to the original termination points on the air compressor and to the side of the block.
I have not called or contacted this place I have listed below or know anything about them other than what I found here on the internet but below is the web site address that will take you to the page that shows the line that I had develop a leak. My only concern, if I have one, would be that they are built to the correct dimensions exactly so that the fittings line up exactly and are easy to thread on. If they are a little bit off it could make it a real pain to get started on the ones that go to the block in my case.
Compressor Coolant Line Repair at Cummins Service Center
My Dutch Star with an ISL 370 is at the Cummins Service Center for this repair right now. I am replacing both air compressor coolant lines. $129 and $134 for the tubes from Cummins and was quoted 3 hours of labor. Looking at about $870 plus shop supplies and tax. Figured I would share for those debating on completing the repairs themselves.
Well I got the tubes in from the place I mentioned earlier and attached is the picture of them. Since I have a truck, I am able to get a pretty good field of access to the side of the block and if I couldn't, like on some motor homes, I would be right now and taking it to a repair shop. The tube are well made, good fit and come ready to install. Cost $200 USD to my door three days after I ordered them.
the top return line on my Freightliner
right now and taking it to a repair shop. The tube are well made, good fit and come ready to install. Cost $200 USD to my door three days after I ordered them.
Linear Mode
