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08-06-2019, 06:17 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 277
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See if the inside of the pipe is wet. Run your finger around the inside, if it is damp and sticky it could be the head gasket leaking into one of the cylinders.
We have a 5.9 in the shop right now with this issue. We looked and looked, pressure tested hot and cold a couple of times even overnight. I finely just said the heck with it, I'll drive it until it gets worse. It eventually got to the point where it was leaking enough that is was located at the front of the head by the inlet pipe. There is a updated head gasket for this engine due to leaking in this area. Not sure if it is the same as your engine.
BTW: the entire time trying to find it, there were no drips underneath at all.
__________________
Larry & Sherry
w/Bug the Beagle
98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 35WDS (Maybelline)/ 5.9 Cummins ISB / Allison / 2019 Chevrolet Equinox / Demco Commander 2 / Air Force One
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08-06-2019, 07:54 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawjohnson
See if the inside of the pipe is wet. Run your finger around the inside, if it is damp and sticky it could be the head gasket leaking into one of the cylinders.
We have a 5.9 in the shop right now with this issue. We looked and looked, pressure tested hot and cold a couple of times even overnight. I finely just said the heck with it, I'll drive it until it gets worse. It eventually got to the point where it was leaking enough that is was located at the front of the head by the inlet pipe. There is a updated head gasket for this engine due to leaking in this area. Not sure if it is the same as your engine.
BTW: the entire time trying to find it, there were no drips underneath at all.
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I have the ISB 6.7L. I hope it's not the head gasket. It only has 35K miles.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A
Cummins ISB 6.7L (ISB 10)/Allison 2100 Transmission
Freightliner XCS chassis
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08-06-2019, 10:19 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 5
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I had the exact problem you described,started about 3 months ago with coolant light,added 1 gal of coolant ever 600 to 700 miles. Took to a authorized cumming repair shop,they checked all the normal places for leaks and could not find any leaks. They then did a oil sample and found coolant in oil. To make a very long and painful story short it was the piston sleeve. 38000 miles coach.i talked to Cummings and got nowhere.end result was 11000$. They had to take apart piece by piece to rule out all possible leaks until they found hole in sleeve.i would start with oil sample.
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08-06-2019, 10:45 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Freightliner Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ualdriver
I have the ISB 6.7L. I hope it's not the head gasket. It only has 35K miles.
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Yeh I know....ours only has 54K
__________________
Larry & Sherry
w/Bug the Beagle
98 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 35WDS (Maybelline)/ 5.9 Cummins ISB / Allison / 2019 Chevrolet Equinox / Demco Commander 2 / Air Force One
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08-06-2019, 11:05 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdcjim
I had the exact problem you described,started about 3 months ago with coolant light,added 1 gal of coolant ever 600 to 700 miles. Took to a authorized cumming repair shop,they checked all the normal places for leaks and could not find any leaks. They then did a oil sample and found coolant in oil. To make a very long and painful story short it was the piston sleeve. 38000 miles coach.i talked to Cummings and got nowhere.end result was 11000$. They had to take apart piece by piece to rule out all possible leaks until they found hole in sleeve.i would start with oil sample.
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Yikes.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A
Cummins ISB 6.7L (ISB 10)/Allison 2100 Transmission
Freightliner XCS chassis
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08-06-2019, 11:11 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdcjim
I had the exact problem you described,started about 3 months ago with coolant light,added 1 gal of coolant ever 600 to 700 miles. Took to a authorized cumming repair shop,they checked all the normal places for leaks and could not find any leaks. They then did a oil sample and found coolant in oil. To make a very long and painful story short it was the piston sleeve. 38000 miles coach.i talked to Cummings and got nowhere.end result was 11000$. They had to take apart piece by piece to rule out all possible leaks until they found hole in sleeve.i would start with oil sample.
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My understanding is that the ISB is parent bored and does not use sleeves/liners. That does not mean he shouldn’t do an oil analysis though as coolant may be entering from another source.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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08-07-2019, 07:27 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330
My understanding is that the ISB is parent bored and does not use sleeves/liners. That does not mean he shouldn’t do an oil analysis though as coolant may be entering from another source.
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Exactly....no engine sleeves in the ISB.
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08-07-2019, 02:28 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ljwt330
My understanding is that the ISB is parent bored and does not use sleeves/liners. That does not mean he shouldn’t do an oil analysis though as coolant may be entering from another source.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigLar368
Exactly....no engine sleeves in the ISB.
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Thanks. Will keep the oil analysis in my back pocket if they can't find the problem.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A
Cummins ISB 6.7L (ISB 10)/Allison 2100 Transmission
Freightliner XCS chassis
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08-08-2019, 08:02 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oswego IL
Posts: 2,392
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There was a tip on the Ram/Dodge: Turbo Diesel Register Forum, that I implemented on my truck to prevent loss of coolant to the surge tank. I was doing and still am do engine oil analysis and this coolant leak was driving me nuts. With no coolant in the engine oil where was this going. Also the EGR cooler is not leaking either.
At the radiator fill cap there is a small barb that has a small diameter hose connected to it. This hose is routed to the surge tank and allows fluid to be transferred back and forth if needed. When the coolant system is under pressure this hose will allow the coolant to escape, it did on my truck. I used a small zip tie to clamp this hose in place and stop the pressure leak. I have not loss any coolant now for three years.
This is just a suggestion for you to look for if you have no coolant in your engine oil, with a cheap fix.
__________________
Jim & Jill
Sold: 2010 318SAB Cougar:New: 2016 Cedar Creek 34RL. 2008 Dodge 6.7LCummins the original 6.7L engine, w/68RFE Auto
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08-08-2019, 09:39 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimcumminsw
There was a tip on the Ram/Dodge: Turbo Diesel Register Forum, that I implemented on my truck to prevent loss of coolant to the surge tank. I was doing and still am do engine oil analysis and this coolant leak was driving me nuts. With no coolant in the engine oil where was this going. Also the EGR cooler is not leaking either.
At the radiator fill cap there is a small barb that has a small diameter hose connected to it. This hose is routed to the surge tank and allows fluid to be transferred back and forth if needed. When the coolant system is under pressure this hose will allow the coolant to escape, it did on my truck. I used a small zip tie to clamp this hose in place and stop the pressure leak. I have not loss any coolant now for three years.
This is just a suggestion for you to look for if you have no coolant in your engine oil, with a cheap fix.
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Thanks! I'll take a look at that as well when I get my rig back.
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A
Cummins ISB 6.7L (ISB 10)/Allison 2100 Transmission
Freightliner XCS chassis
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08-08-2019, 10:20 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimcumminsw
There was a tip on the Ram/Dodge: Turbo Diesel Register Forum, that I implemented on my truck to prevent loss of coolant to the surge tank. I was doing and still am do engine oil analysis and this coolant leak was driving me nuts. With no coolant in the engine oil where was this going. Also the EGR cooler is not leaking either.
At the radiator fill cap there is a small barb that has a small diameter hose connected to it. This hose is routed to the surge tank and allows fluid to be transferred back and forth if needed. When the coolant system is under pressure this hose will allow the coolant to escape, it did on my truck. I used a small zip tie to clamp this hose in place and stop the pressure leak. I have not loss any coolant now for three years.
This is just a suggestion for you to look for if you have no coolant in your engine oil, with a cheap fix.
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Your "Tip" is somewhat misleading and poor advice.
Let me explain how a properly operating cooling system is designed to work.
The reason for the hose is to allow air to escape from the cooling system. The pressure cap is designed to allow air to escape with the system under pressure as the coolant expands, but, when the engine is shut off, it will not allow air to be drawn back into the system as the engine cools and the coolant retracts.
Your problem was a faulty pressure cap that was releasing before it reached its design pressure. Pinching off the hose is a band aid, not a fix.
On all Spartan cooling systems for instance, they use a plastic expansion tank in addition to the Surge Tank for the coolant overflow. This tank is normally about half full with the engine cold. As the temperature increases and the coolant expands, the volume in this tank increases. The hose from the underside of the pressure cap is routed into the bottom of the expansion tank into the fluid. Any air from the cooling system or fluid will enter the tank at the bottom. The air is allowed to escape through an atmospheric vent on the top of the tank. This tank is not pressurized.
Now, when the engine cools down and the coolant retracts, only coolant can be drawn back into the system because the hose is below the level of the coolant in the expansion tank.
This extra tank of course adds to the cost so most others do not use it. Will the system work without it? Sure, but the role of the pressure cap then becomes more critical.
The whole idea is to run the cooling system under pressure which increases the boiling point of the fluid. The pressure cap is designed to maintain a design pressure and to allow entrained air to escape. Entrained air is extremely harmful in the cooling system resulting in cavitation/corrosion of water pump impellers, cylinder liners etc etc.
Pinching off that hose is not the answer to your problem.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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08-08-2019, 10:41 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 2,825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45
Your "Tip" is somewhat misleading and poor advice.
Let me explain how a properly operating cooling system is designed to work.
The reason for the hose is to allow air to escape from the cooling system. The pressure cap is designed to allow air to escape with the system under pressure as the coolant expands, but, when the engine is shut off, it will not allow air to be drawn back into the system as the engine cools and the coolant retracts.
Your problem was a faulty pressure cap that was releasing before it reached its design pressure. Pinching off the hose is a band aid, not a fix.
On all Spartan cooling systems for instance, they use a plastic expansion tank in addition to the Surge Tank for the coolant overflow. This tank is normally about half full with the engine cold. As the temperature increases and the coolant expands, the volume in this tank increases. The hose from the underside of the pressure cap is routed into the bottom of the expansion tank into the fluid. Any air from the cooling system or fluid will enter the tank at the bottom. The air is allowed to escape through an atmospheric vent on the top of the tank. This tank is not pressurized.
Now, when the engine cools down and the coolant retracts, only coolant can be drawn back into the system because the hose is below the level of the coolant in the expansion tank.
This extra tank of course adds to the cost so most others do not use it. Will the system work without it? Sure, but the role of the pressure cap then becomes more critical.
The whole idea is to run the cooling system under pressure which increases the boiling point of the fluid. The pressure cap is designed to maintain a design pressure and to allow entrained air to escape. Entrained air is extremely harmful in the cooling system resulting in cavitation/corrosion of water pump impellers, cylinder liners etc etc.
Pinching off that hose is not the answer to your problem.
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From my reading the poster did not say to pinch off the vent tube merely zip tie it to the hose barb coming out of the radiator neck, which is very sound advice and it keeps the system closed.
Now there are a few more things I would like to add. If you have a head gasket leak or any other way there is coolant leaking into the combustion chamber you will see white smoke (actually steam) coming from the exhaust pipe. As to looking for moisture in the tail pipe, every internal combustion engine produces water as a byproduct of combustion so the tail pipe will almost always be wet, but not sticky. Sticky is probably antifreeze. It will also probably smell like antifreeze.
You might also want to check and see if there are "worm" type clamps on the radiator hoses. If so, try to gently tighten them with a nut driver or a screwdriver, not a socket and ratchet, it provides too much torque. I've had rubber hoses shrink under that style of clamp and just a tweak solved the problem.
Most radiator pressure testers also have an adapter to test the radiator cap also, so kill two birds with one stone.
As in most types of trouble shooting look for the easy, simple things first, that's usually where the problem lies. Good luck.
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08-13-2019, 06:02 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 862
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To tie a ribbon around this thread, after sitting for a week at a Freightliner Oasis shop on I76 (they were busy and said they couldn't look at it for a week when I dropped it off), they found a radiator hose clamp that was loose. Sucked that it took them a week before they could figure that out but such is RV life. I'm just glad it wasn't the scarier stuff discussed above : )
__________________
2013 Fleetwood Excursion 33A
Cummins ISB 6.7L (ISB 10)/Allison 2100 Transmission
Freightliner XCS chassis
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