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Grandcanyon · 10-07-2017, 02:04 AM

Hello! I need to change the fuel filter on my 2015 Allegro Red with the 340HP Cummins. How hard is this to do? I looked on line for help but it has been confusing with this engine they all show some sort of different filters on what I have found. Do I only have one filter or do I have a filter and a water separator can anyone shine some light on this matter? I have changed my own oil and the transmission spin off filter on the Allison but have never changed the fuel filter, any advise? Thank You!!

funjnt · 10-07-2017, 05:26 AM

Can you provide us with some info on coach and maybe a pic or two of filters? It should be fairly straight forward.

Kiawah · 10-07-2017, 05:35 AM

There are two filters, and both of mine get changed at annual maintenance. Surprised you haven't had a problem.

One of the filters is a water separator, and the filter is open on both ends. When you take it off, you then need to take the bottom piece off (has the water drain and water sensor wires) and then put that bottom on the new filter.

I will tell you that while this is being done, fuel is pouring out.

I've done all the maintenance on our vehicles for 40 years, but I have Speedco change the coach. For 200 bucks, they do the oil and oil filter, both fuel filters, and lube the chassis. (There's one in Casa Grande for you). I change the generator oil & filter, front wheeel bearing oil, and verify that they hit all the zerk grease fittings. Main reason I initially had them do it is so I'd have a receipt which proved the maintenance was done for warranty purposes, but after seeing the mess and how inexpensive they are, it's just not worth my time and effort (and MESS) to do the engine myself.

Cummins seems to put the fuel filters on really tight when built, and it was a bear for them to get it off. Took two guys a couple minutes working on the bench to get the water separator off without breaking it, and then get the new filter assembly back on. All the while, fuel is leaking (seemed like an eternity). The fact that you haven't changed the filters at all in 3 years, they are probably really frozen on.

Look under the rear, behind the rear tire, on the PS, you'll see the two filters.

If you really want to change these yourself, I would suggest buying a spare water separator unit. That way you could attach it to the new filter and have the whole unit ready to screw on, when you take the old assembly off. That would minimize the amount of fuel leakage. Then use the one you took off, for next years annual change.

I carry a set of spare fuel filters if I ever get a bad load of fuel on the road, but dread the mess if I actually have to change them.

Like purging the air tanks, the water separator is something you are supposed to check periodically thru the year, and drain any water if there is any in there.

Fiesta48 · 10-07-2017, 06:20 AM

Recently did mine myself. Had many problems, best to farm out. Now that I've done it will be easiler the second time.
The clear bowl is better partially unscrewed on the vehicle first. Use two strap wrenches. And for sure fill the filter with diesel before reinstalling.

chuckftboy · 10-07-2017, 07:28 PM

I changed my fuel filters almost a year ago and will do them again in the near future, I was warned ahead of time about the fuel flow wile changing the water separator filter so I waited till I had 1/4 tank of fuel. I then dumped the air, blocked the wheels and raised the rear. I never had any fuel come out doing it that way. With a strap wrench and a socket for the primary filter, mine seemed quite easy.
If you have a Speedco around $200 seems reasonable but I enjoy doing my own maintenance and no Speedco in my area.

Grandcanyon · 10-08-2017, 12:59 AM

Thank You all for the information, I will look into Speedco and probably have then do it, I guess I have been lucky that I have not had an issue, I have 23,000 miles on the unit and she runs like a kitten!!!

4Fingers · 10-08-2017, 07:12 AM

Rather than clean diesel to charge your empty many, many mechanics use ATF to do this. You can use a diesel fuel treatment also but ATF is cheaper. It is easier to fill the empty filter and it is CLEAN. Hope I don't get flamed for this.

Don

AFChap · 10-08-2017, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Fingers

Rather than clean diesel to charge your empty many, many mechanics use ATF to do this. You can use a diesel fuel treatment also but ATF is cheaper. It is easier to fill the empty filter and it is CLEAN. Hope I don't get flamed for this.

Don

OR, check your manual, which likely warns against putting ANYTHING in the new filter. I know some old mechanics who are used to working on old engines do, but new engines have new procedures. I never have pre-charged my Cummins fuel filter. Just followed the procedure to prime the new filter by turning the ignition on and listen to the lift pump cycle, off and back on and listen to the lift pump cycle, etc. Three or four times should do it.

moleary · 10-08-2017, 07:30 PM

FYI. I had Speedco service my coach just the other day. They didn't stock the water separator. I wish I would have known this ahead of time. I would have made sure and brought my own for them to install.

Pigman1 · 10-08-2017, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckftboy

I changed my fuel filters almost a year ago and will do them again in the near future, I was warned ahead of time about the fuel flow wile changing the water separator filter so I waited till I had 1/4 tank of fuel. I then dumped the air, blocked the wheels and raised the rear. I never had any fuel come out doing it that way. With a strap wrench and a socket for the primary filter, mine seemed quite easy.
If you have a Speedco around $200 seems reasonable but I enjoy doing my own maintenance and no Speedco in my area.

chuckftboy has it right. Let the fuel tank drop to around 1/4 and park the rig on a slope or use your leveling jacks to adjust the chassis angle. Also, be sure to pre-fill the filters with CLEAN, FRESH fuel when installing. Use your thumb to cover the center hole in the filter when filling so the fuel goes down the smaller outer holes. Put them on and tighten 3/4 turn after the gasket hits the base. Directions should be printed on the side of the filter. You should be able to do that all by hand without the strap wrench. When you take them off next time, you'll need the strap wrench and a 1/2" ratchet to loosen them, and even then you may severely deform the filter case. Restart after each filter is installed and run your rpm up to 1000-1200RPM immediately on start until any air is coughed through. No need to use the lift pump 6-10 times to charge the filters. If you have a CAT diesel you can buy a manual prime pump for $60-80 from your local CAT dealer. An easy 2 bolt install.

funjnt · 10-10-2017, 06:13 AM

I just thought of two things. One, I don't fill fuel filters, dirt can get into injection system. Two, I have a big truck mechanic who puts a slight film of grease, yes grease, on the rubber gasket on the filters. All filters. So thinking about that they always release easily. Even if you put a coat of oil on the rubber the oil can dry out and it attaches to the metal making it to take off a real task. I have had the real task situation often when not using this method. So now I use a light film of grease and all filters release nicely. Including the coolant filter which is always a bear.

Dark Sky · 11-02-2017, 11:03 PM

Grand Canyon, I have your exact engine and a few months ago I changed the fuel filter and the fuel water separator for the first time. I see your question was a while ago, but thought I would share in case any of this is of value to you.
-The existing filters were Wix. I elected to call Cummins to determine exactly what part numbers were specified for my serial number. That worked great for the fuel filter. Unfortunately the Cummins specification for my engine was not the part that was fitted. The chassis manufacturer (Freightliner) had installed a base plate on the frame and provided a different fuel water separator. I finally got the correct separator and proceeded.
-I prefilled the fuel filter as stipulated by Cummins. I kept the provided plastic plug in the large hole and poured clean fuel into the smaller holes. I changed the filter and started the engine to ensure everything was primed and all air purged before tackling the separator. No fuel came out while I had the filter off because the tank was down around 1/4 full.
-I prefilled the separator as stipulated by Cummins, as above. After installation I was stuck with a 'no start'. It would not prime itself after following the 'key on' procedure many times. Upon advice from an experienced member here, I removed the filter and refilled it. It was down a couple of inches. With this complete, I did the 'key on' procedure a few times and it started.

Armed with the correct part numbers and some experience, I plan to do my own filter changes going forward. As mentioned by others, it might be something I have to do someday while traveling if I get into some bad fuel. I keep a spare set of filters on board including the plastic bowl for the separator.

funjnt · 11-03-2017, 05:12 AM

Dark sky: I am curious, what are your filter numbers? I have been using the wrong filters and have been going around and around researching this. Cummins only provided one filter and chassis manufacturer added the water separator and that is where I am getting many different numbers. Thanks.

jvalich · 11-03-2017, 05:36 AM

On the cusp of doing this myself on the new to me coach. Just changed the oil so the fuel filters are next. Everything will be changed so I have a new baseline maintenance record.

Cummins, Fuel Filter was FF63008, new filter is FF63009

Freightliner: RAI S3226T (element only)

Paid $78 for both filters from the local Tampa Freightliner Center

Hope this helps.

I have a Speedco in Orlando. Based on what I paid for the filters (oil, fuel, waters.) and the oil, If they will do it for $200, that's about what I have invested. Rotella T from Wally World. May have them do it the next go around.