ISC 350 Hose Leaking

[mackwrench]

That's the fill/expansion hose from lower hose/pipe to coolant fill tank reservoir. Definitely has coolant in it.

Does the hose have enough slack to remove and cut a few inches off, reattach?
That's looking like standard coolant hose, should be a inside diameter stamped on it most are 1" id... Nothing special, and used on lots of makes...it's available at any heavy truck dealer parts counter or truck parts store.

Unfortunately you'll need a few clean 5 gallon pails to catch the coolant as it'll drain most of it when you pull that hose off.

BTW, that's not an air bleed hose, those are the smaller aeroquip lines in the "T" fitting on the top coolant pipe in your picture.

[Ruffcutz]

Thanks so much for that info. When I looked up the number on the side it pulled up Marine fuel return line. There might be enough to cut it for now as it loops around a lot and I believe I can cut about 34 inches off and be good, at least until I can replace it. Do these take a specific type of antifreeze?

[mackwrench]

Originally Posted by Ruffcutz

Thanks so much for that info. When I looked up the number on the side it pulled up Marine fuel return line. There might be enough to cut it for now as it loops around a lot and I believe I can cut about 34 inches off and be good, at least until I can replace it. Do these take a specific type of antifreeze?

Yes. What type is in it now? If it's the old green coolant, now be a good time to drain it all, flush and replace with something long life....

Or like I said, remove the hose at lower end and drain what comes out into a clean pail/container, pour it back in and top off with same "color"

I'd not hesitate to remove the hose, cut off a few inches and reinstall....

[153stars]

Since you seem unfamiliar with coolant in your wet sleeve engine . There's good chance it's SCA/DCA that needs to be tested with test strips for nitrate and moly levels these protect your wet sleeve from cavitation pitting. Make sure any strips you buy are not expired. Auto parts and Wal-Mart should have SCA charged coolant by different manufacturers Peak or Fleetgaurd. It most likely has a coolant filter with slow release SCA pellets. If levels are slipping to low side low replace with same filter. If lower than allowable scale buy DCA4 additive and follow directions . There's a valve on filter housing it's a tube the thumb handles are attached to same tube.
Napa should have heater/coolant hose if it's bigger than 3/4 other auto parts might not carry larger. In a pinch you could cut back that hose. A couple inches, if enough slack. I've cut back auto hose before used for years after. Somebody may have just abused it to get off or stress on it.

[Surf Fisher]

Very strange setup for a Cummins ISC-350.

Here's a photo of my Cummins ISC-350 in my 2002 Monaco Windsor.

[153stars]

Or did someone take a $50 air tank and weld a rad cap neck and hose barb on to save $350 over a replacement rad tank.
Just to see if they would. I contacted a place that makes beautiful alum fuel tanks at amazing prices to see if they would be interested in producing rad tanks but didn't get back to me.

Originally Posted by Surf Fisher

Very strange setup for a Cummins ISC-350.

Here's a photo of my Cummins ISC-350 in my 2002 Monaco Windsor.

[Dutch Star Don]

Ruffcutz.....You've got some decisions to make and some homework to do.

If those are the original hoses, it's time to change them all. It's silly to drain the coolant, replace one hose and then have another go bad a few months later.

HOSES....When I changed all the hoses on my 2005 Monaco, there were a lot of odd turns and short pieces. It was going to be difficult to find specific hoses that fit the coach. Instead of trying to find them, I looked at all the hoses and determined what I needed. As an example, I needed a 90-degree hose with six inches on both sides. I also needed a short three-inch hose. So, I bought a 90-degree hose with nine or twelve inches on one side and six inches on the other. I cut off three inches and had two of the hoses I needed. You can buy these assorted size hoses online. Just look up silicone hoses. Silicone is great hose for replacement and is easier to work with.

COOLANT.....Your coach takes a coolant which requires you to measure SCM/DCM's. This is a chemical in coolant that needs to be checked each year to make sure it has the correct balance. They sell test strips that will measure for the correct amounts. You can also take a sample to most large truck part/repair shops, and they'll test it for you. So, once you fill the coach with new coolant, you add a specified amount of SCM/DCM. The SCM/DCM basically prevents damage by the coolant to engine walls.

OPTIONS.....There are newer coolants out now called Organic Acid Technology coolant (OAT). There are several companies that make this new coolant, one being Final Charge. With these new coolants you no longer have to test for SCM/DCM or even add them. On my 2005 Diplomat, I changed to the OAT coolant and was very happy with it, especially eliminating the need to check with strips.

Before you take anything apart, I would thoroughly drain, flush, drain the coach, maybe a couple of times. When you're ready to refill, get two gallons of coolant concentrate, and the rest of the coolant in a 50/50 mix. Add the two gallons of concentrate and then fill until it's full with the 50/50 mix. By adding the concentrate, you ensure that you're pretty close to a 50/50 mix, as there will be water left in the system.

While everything is apart, change the thermostat.

Lastly, you won't be able to change the heater hoses running to the front of the coach. You might want to cut them, just before they disappear into the frame and replace them from the engine up to where you cut them, using a pipe as a joint. That way the hoses that have been exposed to engine heat and open air will be new.

[randomledder]

It’s a deairation hose. Let’s the air out of the system when filling it. You can just buy it by the foot. I would replace the hose clamps as well.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Surf Fisher

Very strange setup for a Cummins ISC-350.

Here's a photo of my Cummins ISC-350 in my 2002 Monaco Windsor.

Yep, yours is strange. FWIW, each MH mfgr. installs the engine accessories as they wish. When the chassis arrives at the mfgrs. yard, engine accessories are not installed.
That's why some owners complain of incorrrect dip-sticks.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by BigEvi

Do not use heater hose.

What's wrong with using heater hose on a coolant tank?

I don't understand why you need petroleum resistant hose or fuel rated hose on a coolant system tank.

[Rovinsky]

I have a 2000 isc Cummins it uses the same hose you have, it is for coolant hose (SAE J1527USCG Type B2)

I replaced mine with the same hose. I believe they use this hose because it is wire bound and won't collapse or kink when the engine cools and pulls a vacuum on the overflow tank. I replaced mine because it had surface cracks

[Ruffcutz]

This is great information and thank you.I rally appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Do you know if there is a specific type of flush I should purchase? Over the past few days I took on the task of removing and cleaning the battery try The ball bearing wheels were filled with grime and a couple wouldn’t even turn.The batteries are just under a year old but the tray itself was a mess. I pulled it and cleaned and repacked the bearing wheels. If moves and latches great. I took pictures and marked what I thought was everything but just to make sure am wondering if there is any kind of wiring diagram for reference. Would like to double check before burning something up.

[J. W. Hyde]

Before Motor homes we had sail boats..We learned that double hose clamps save a lot of trouble. Especially when at sea One of the best " upgrades " we ever made.

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by J. W. Hyde

Before Motor homes we had sail boats..We learned that double hose clamps save a lot of trouble. Especially when at sea One of the best " upgrades " we ever made.

Yup, as long as you have a long enough overlap of hose to metal pipe, double hose clamps are a good idea-- with screws 180 degrees from each other.


Even better, constant torque clamps, particularly on larger diameter hoses.