ISL 425 EGR Valve removal

[pduggs]

My CEL comes on only occasionally and scanning pulled engine fault code 1896 “EGR valve is stuck in open position.” 45k miles on motor.

I opened the engine hatch in bedroom and found easy access to EGR valve. Removed four 13mm and two 10mm bolts without much effort. Removed the two attached electrical connections, a bit more difficult. EGR valve in hand in 20 minutes.

I found no moisture, so cooler isn’t leaking. It has some carbon buildup but it doesn’t look bad to me. I was able to close the valve easily with my finger.

What do you guys think should be next steps?

[bubby124]

Maybe a sensor that tells the ecm that the egr is working correctly

[pduggs]

Originally Posted by bubby124

Maybe a sensor that tells the ecm that the egr is working correctly

Do you know how to check a sensor? I pulled this one out of the tube coming from the cooler to just before entering the EGR valve. It has a lot of carbon on it.

[pduggs]

Using my meter to check resistant I found the valve is 1.545 and sensor is .094. Not sure what this means. Will have to research.

[bubby124]

You might check the Cummings quilt serve site for the resistance test but I would clean and replace might work

[pduggs]

To follow up on this topic, I got it fixed easily.

After removing the EGR valve I soaked it in brake cleaner overnight. This did nothing to remove the soot. I saw a YouTube video where they used oven cleaner to great effect. I rinsed out the brake cleaner and hit it hard with oven cleaner, then let it sit overnight filled with the oven cleaner. I nearly used the entire can. This did the job. Now very clean and I can move the valve back and forth by hand easily.

Reinstalled the valve and drove about 20 minutes. The CEL that was steady on before, never reappeared. Engine ran well.

I suspect many owners and shops replace the EGR valve, which is a costly part, when a good cleaning is all that’s necessary.

[arcaguy]

Originally Posted by pduggs

To follow up on this topic, I got it fixed easily.

After removing the EGR valve I soaked it in brake cleaner overnight. This did nothing to remove the soot. I saw a YouTube video where they used oven cleaner to great effect. I rinsed out the brake cleaner and hit it hard with oven cleaner, then let it sit overnight filled with the oven cleaner. I nearly used the entire can. This did the job. Now very clean and I can move the valve back and forth by hand easily.

Reinstalled the valve and drove about 20 minutes. The CEL that was steady on before, never reappeared. Engine ran well.

I suspect many owners and shops replace the EGR valve, which is a costly part, when a good cleaning is all that’s necessary.

A good trick to know. I do have a question though - do you idle your engine a lot? That may contribute to the soot build up, I don't know.

[pduggs]

I seldom idle the engine. I bought the coach from the original owner and it had 22,000 miles on it. He may have idled it a lot.

[bubby124]

What would be considered alot of time to idle? Just curious

[pduggs]

I will idle long enough to get my airbags fully inflated, then I’m moving. We left a park early last winter and I failed to fully air up my bags. I didn’t want to irritate my neighbors. Problem was as I pulled out the road way rose up. I scrapped the bottom of my front cap. Fortunately no real damage, but I won’t do that again.

I generally don’t like to idle more than about 5 minutes. So if I’m in line to fuel up, I shut down my motor. Or if I’m checking into a park, I shut down.

[Wild Card]

Originally Posted by pduggs

I suspect many owners and shops replace the EGR valve, which is a costly part, when a good cleaning is all that’s necessary.

Not many mechanics anymore. They are parts changers. The computer tells them this part is bad and they replace it.

[pduggs]

Originally Posted by Wild Card

Not many mechanics anymore. They are parts changers. The computer tells them this part is bad and they replace it.

I suspect you might be right.