Community Forums

Vtxbiker · 02-21-2014, 10:57 AM

Hey thanks to all for the replies. Pigman I like the oil drain valve you use, thanks for the link. I will be ordering one. I like the cap that is installed after draining. There is something about a valve handle and an open end under there that is scary. I sent an email about the Fumoto valve and having a cap to install after draing oil. They are supposed to be having one available in a month or two,but it will be plastic!

The comments on getting oil and lube service is why I don't mind doing the work myself. I have had the same experience with having work done also. If I forget something it's one thing but I don't like paying someone to forget something.

I like the filter change idea on knocking a hole in the bottom to drain. It is a big filter and holds a lot of oil.

Thanks again and anymore tips and comments will be welcome.

DAJO · 02-21-2014, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Thomas

I had semi trucks for several years. When they were in, I did the service on them. If they happened to be out on the road, we would have them serviced at all kinds of places, TA, Petro, Freightliner, you name it, we tried them all. I do know this. When I serviced the same truck two times in a row, each grease zerk would take 4-5 pumps. When it was serviced on the road and I did it the next time, it was 10-12 pumps per zerk. Now what do you think was happening? I am pretty convinced, they never got the grease gun out.

And I can't tell you how many times we would be 30 miles down the road, after getting it serviced, and oil running down the oil filters, because they forgot to tighten the filter. Or how many times, the fuel filters were put in wrong, and the engine was starving for fuel or fuel pouring down the highway.

If you have it done at a place you trust, go for it. But I never found one I really trusted.....

Amen on that. Had Cummins in Anchorage do a lube job this summer. Later when I lubed it I found several zerks that could not be lubed without turning steering wheel or moving coach slightly. I was right there and could have made the necessary adjustments for him but he said nothing and just skipped the ones that were difficult to get to. They also could not fix my generator and it failed again the next day, no generator for the entire trip.

WILDEBILL308 · 02-23-2014, 08:07 PM

I use a filter wrench that grabs the bottom of the filter. I changed my oil this last week. It is easier to do than on a car just more oil. Only took 4 gal of Mobil 1 5-40. I don’t like the add on drain devices. Taking the drain plug out will let the oil drain quickly and completely. The Fumoto valve that I looked at would have extended up into the pan and may not let all the oil drain out. The fleet guard filter I used is fairly stout I think you would have to really work to dent it. There were no marks on the old filter and it was on plenty tight.
In one of your earlier post you talked about taking an oil sample. The proper way is to run the plastic line down the dipstick tube just far enough to hit oil and not the bottom of the pan. You can mark the tube using your dipstick when you take a sample when draining or from the bottom of the pan you will get a false reading.
Bill

Coma · 02-24-2014, 05:48 AM

FWIW this is what I use. A NAPA strap wrench and you are good to go.

R2Home · 02-24-2014, 08:53 AM

Like a lot of others, I do my own oil changes and services that I can do. I do use a 5 gallon bucket to contain the used oil. Our drive way has a slight slope to it, so if I park correctly I have lots of room under the MH. While I will drain the oil while it is warm, I will wait for a while to remove the oil filter. I will do the rest of my service and checking 'stuff' on the bottom side. After a while, I find that enough oil has drained out of the oil filter that I can remove it and not make a mess. When I put the new oil filter back on, after putting some oil in it and putting some oil on the gasket, I install the filter by hand. I do not use a filter wrench to install the oil filter. I install the oil filter by hand until the gasket contacts the filter head and then another 3/4 turn. So far I have not had any issues with a loose/leaking filter. Being that I get my oil in gallon containers, I reuse them for the old oil. Our local land fill will take 5 gallons of oil and not charge for the disposal. They do charge $1.00/ gallon for anything over that. The only pain that I have on our current MH is the wire mesh on the bottom side that keeps rocks and stuff from getting into the engine compartment.

spike45 · 02-25-2014, 01:45 PM

Punch a hole in the dome end of the lube oil filter to drain it. No oil is spilled when you remove it. Many big truck mechanics do this as it weighs less and no mess. Be sure you have the correct replacement, first!

Okrver · 02-25-2014, 02:01 PM

I have used the fumoto valve for 10 years with no issues. I like being able to attach a hose to it, so I can drain into an old 5 gallon gas can. Local auto repair has an oil heater, and willingly takes all my old oil. I only fill one of my fuel filters, and then tap the key to turn the fuel pump to fill the second one.

Pilatus · 02-25-2014, 02:06 PM

I use my wifes 2 -17 qt plastic storage containers and when one gets close to the top, I slide the second one under the pan. I use Rottella in the 2.5 Gallon Jugs and then I pour the old oil back into and take it back to Autozone. Now figure out what a mess I had the first time when my ISM holds 40 Qts. I was never too good in math.

joeguider · 03-30-2014, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vtxbiker

Hello, I am new to diesel engine maintenance. I just purchased a motorhome with a 425 Cummins diesel. I like to do the oil changes myself and would like any input on the actual oil change. I have asked about what I need to do with the service to get a good baseline and had some really great advice as to what I needed to do. Thanks for all the info on that post!

First I am thinking about installing an oil drain valve. I have been looking at the Fumoto valve and have seen several pros and cons about them. I would like any input as to the installation of this valve or is there any better options? My reason for the valve is to stop the oil for getting samples and to allow the changing of oil containers for the used oil. I am not equipped to handle 6 or 7 gallons of used oil!

That brings up another question. What are you using for the used oil containers? I am thinking about 5gal buckets. Then again you have to get them under the engine(too High) any thoughts?

I was thinking about using a vacuum pump to suck the oil out but read some reports of the hose getting stuck in the oil pan when going through the dipstick. Bad news, maybe oil pan removal! Now if I had the valve installed I could use the vacuum pump to connect to the drain valve and the bucket could stay out from under the engine and should actuall drain more oil from the pan.

Just thinking now , waiting for more input.

Thanks

i just changed my oil in 1999 cummins took four gallons i prefer rotella as i have a trucking company in oregon and use it in my 95 peterbilt (12 gallons) in pete. and one oil filter used jacks up all the way and sat under motor used 5 gallon container took old oil back to wal mart . very easy to do and added oil by lifting bed and was very easy .

1skier · 03-30-2014, 02:55 PM

Big fan of draining the oil as quickly as possible to try to drag anything that may be sitting at the bottom of the drain pan out with the oil. Not sure how the drain valve affects flow, but got to imagine it does to some extent. I would never use a pump and hose to remove the oil - it will not remove anything sitting in the bottom of the pan. Might not be an issue, but we spend so much money and sweat on these beasts, I want to move the "odds needle" to my favor whenever possible.

In our neighborhood, most of the auto parts stores take used oil, so disposal is a cinch. I prefer to do the task myself - I do not trust anyone else to check everything under the chassis as well as I do. And, as has been mentioned, to properly lube all points, the rig has to be jogged to turn the driveshaft and steering shaft, and I don't believe I have ever seen that done at any shop.

L19drvr · 03-30-2014, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spike45

Sears.com

K-D band wrenches are superior at installing and removing filers without the risk of denting the filter while installing. A previous poster showed a link to the cheapie nylon belt wrench with the steel square drive tube. Stay away from these as you can dent the filter shell while installing. Dented shells frequently crack which is NOT a warrantable failure of the filter as they are sold dent-free. Never install a dented filter of any type. Denting on removal is okay.

Which of the KD filter wrenches are you referring to? When I google KD oil filter wrenches, all sorts of different types are displayed including the strap design that you guard against.
Thanks

Hooligan · 03-30-2014, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1skier

Big fan of draining the oil as quickly as possible to try to drag anything that may be sitting at the bottom of the drain pan out with the oil.

A few years ago, this came out with the drained oil. Best we could determine it is the cap/plug used to seal the dipstick opening. Dipstick location is chosen by the chassis mfgr... Sure it would not have passed through an oil drain valve.....

On the other hand- first time in all those oil changes that I've had anything with a part number come out of the drain...

Pigman1 · 03-30-2014, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spike45

Sears.com

K-D band wrenches are superior at installing and removing filers without the risk of denting the filter while installing. A previous poster showed a link to the cheapie nylon belt wrench with the steel square drive tube. Stay away from these as you can dent the filter shell while installing. Dented shells frequently crack which is NOT a warrantable failure of the filter as they are sold dent-free. Never install a dented filter of any type. Denting on removal is okay.

Interesting... When I remove the filter I use the square tube strap wrench and many times it does dent the filter when removing it. However, I NEVER use a wrench when installing a filter. If the rubber gasket is lubricated as directed I can get the necessary additional partial turn by hand, so NO filter denting and no leaking. I want to be able to remove the filter at the next oil change, and using a wrench to tighten a new filter to the point where it may dent the shell is way too tight.

vraines · 03-31-2014, 06:49 AM

I don't get enough clearance under my motor home for a five gallon can. Anyway, 26 quarts will make a mess with that arrangement. I use a 40 quart drain pan from O'Rileys. It is a container with a large drain opening and a pour spout to empty the container. I can set the filter on the drain opening to empty it and it has wheels to easily maneuver it. Works well on my cars and tractors also. I have to get under the motor home to get to the oil filter, so removing a plug from the pan to, drain the oil is the easiest part. I can completely drain the oil and change the filter in under 30 minutes. Not sure what problem the valve solves?