Community Forums

Vtxbiker · 02-19-2014, 04:19 PM

Hello, I am new to diesel engine maintenance. I just purchased a motorhome with a 425 Cummins diesel. I like to do the oil changes myself and would like any input on the actual oil change. I have asked about what I need to do with the service to get a good baseline and had some really great advice as to what I needed to do. Thanks for all the info on that post!

First I am thinking about installing an oil drain valve. I have been looking at the Fumoto valve and have seen several pros and cons about them. I would like any input as to the installation of this valve or is there any better options? My reason for the valve is to stop the oil for getting samples and to allow the changing of oil containers for the used oil. I am not equipped to handle 6 or 7 gallons of used oil!

That brings up another question. What are you using for the used oil containers? I am thinking about 5gal buckets. Then again you have to get them under the engine(too High) any thoughts?

I was thinking about using a vacuum pump to suck the oil out but read some reports of the hose getting stuck in the oil pan when going through the dipstick. Bad news, maybe oil pan removal! Now if I had the valve installed I could use the vacuum pump to connect to the drain valve and the bucket could stay out from under the engine and should actuall drain more oil from the pan.

Just thinking now , waiting for more input.

Thanks

Bigd9 · 02-19-2014, 05:23 PM

Just a couple of comments here. Make sure where ever you take the used oil will take the size container you have. Some places limit the amount of used oil you turn in.

I like the idea of the Fumoto valve, and I didn't know there were down sides to using it.

Be prepared to remove the filters. and deal with that oil. Someone else in this forum said they take a plastic bag and as soon as the filter is loosen they slip the bag over the filter to trap any oil that dribbles down the side of the old filter. I'm going to try that tip on my next oil filter change.

I drain my oil into a large galvanized steel truck oil drain pan that holds 7 gallons (Metal Oil Drain Pan, Oil Drain Pans, Motor Oil Drain Pan | Behrens Manufacturing). I then pour that into a wide mouth plastic containers that hold 2.5 gallons each. They are easier to handle than the 5 gallon buckets.

Pigman1 · 02-19-2014, 06:07 PM

Doing your own oil change is quite easy and very thrifty. It also gets you under there looking for oil, coolant, or other leaks, loose bolts and clamps and so forth. I've been using Quick Changer Oil Drain Valve - Unique Truck Equipment for my "valve" as I don't like the idea of the FUMOTO valve with the lever and projection it has. I also use this valve on my pickup and family sedan, and have for about 12 years. I run the Cummins to warm the oil up and fully suspend all contaminants. I save old 2 1/2 gal oil containers, antifreeze bottles, windshield washer fluid bottles and even cut off 5 gal buckets. While changing oil the filter needs to be replaced. After loosening the filter very slightly with a strap wrench I punch a hole in the filter bottom to get rid of the excess oil. It's a big filter and heavy when full of oil. Be advised, the first oil filter change is a bit*h. Seems like Cummins hires 800lb gorillas to install the filter. I use a strap wrench like GEARWRENCH Oil Filter Strap Wrench,Nylon,7 In - Oil Filter Wrenches - 2ZPK4|3149 - Grainger Industrial Supply that I got at NAPA. Use a breaker bar the first time you remove the filter.

Good luck.

Mike Thomas · 02-19-2014, 08:17 PM

Fill the filter with clean oil before installing it. I change mine at about 15,000 miles. Change fuel filters, (maybe two of them) at the same time, and fill them with fuel before installing. Cycle the ignition key on and off 3-4 times to get fuel up to the injector pump, then start it. Check the indicator on the air filter and then reset each time. Don't change it until the indicator shows that it needs changed! The filter needs some dirt in it to really be effective, changing it too often just does more damage to the engine. Grease everything. I bought a battery powered grease gun, best money I ever spent (Lincoln brand). Slither all the way from front to back looking for loose wires, air hoses, chafing of wiring or air hoses. You will be surprised at what you find and fix before you have problems.

vraines · 02-19-2014, 08:26 PM

I bought a 40 quart drain pan from NAPA. It has a concave side that will catch the oil from the crankcase and oil filter. It will easily roll under the engine and provides a good storage container for the oil until you dispose of it. It has a drain spout on one end to make emptying fairly easy. It cost about $80, but I use it in my cars and tractors. There a bunch of shops that burn used motor oil, so I don't have to deal with some parts store clerk telling that they can only accept 5 quarts.

dons2346 · 02-19-2014, 08:48 PM

The Fumoto valve is a good idea but I don't want anything hanging out that might be knocked off by road debris. On the main motor, a regular plug works for me. A Fumoto valve works great for the generator.

I use Speedco for oil changes rather than doing it myself. I find that having to get rid of 22 quarts of oil plus used filters is not worth my time and expense. For $250, I get oil, filter, plus two fuel filters, water filter, and a chassis lube.

spike45 · 02-19-2014, 09:48 PM

Sears.com

K-D band wrenches are superior at installing and removing filers without the risk of denting the filter while installing. A previous poster showed a link to the cheapie nylon belt wrench with the steel square drive tube. Stay away from these as you can dent the filter shell while installing. Dented shells frequently crack which is NOT a warrantable failure of the filter as they are sold dent-free. Never install a dented filter of any type. Denting on removal is okay.

Arch Hoagland · 02-19-2014, 10:46 PM

My Fumoto drain valves never had anything that stuck out.

There is a brass screw on cover that protects the assembly. I've used them for about 20 years on all the vehicles I've ever owned and never had a problem.

I use old kitty litter containers, cooking oil containers, etc for the used oil.

In our city the Waste management service picks up used engine oil with the trash every week. I'd call whoever does your trash pickup and ask how to dispose of it.

I'd suggest you buy your oil filters at the Cummins dealer to lessen the chance of getting a counterfeit filter,

koda59 · 02-20-2014, 07:04 PM

I have used the fumato valve on both my gas and diesel motorhome. Have never had any issues with it. I bougfht the ones with teh nipple on them so I can hook up a hose to them. Drains slower but no mess when done.

Mike Thomas · 02-20-2014, 07:35 PM

I had semi trucks for several years. When they were in, I did the service on them. If they happened to be out on the road, we would have them serviced at all kinds of places, TA, Petro, Freightliner, you name it, we tried them all. I do know this. When I serviced the same truck two times in a row, each grease zerk would take 4-5 pumps. When it was serviced on the road and I did it the next time, it was 10-12 pumps per zerk. Now what do you think was happening? I am pretty convinced, they never got the grease gun out.

And I can't tell you how many times we would be 30 miles down the road, after getting it serviced, and oil running down the oil filters, because they forgot to tighten the filter. Or how many times, the fuel filters were put in wrong, and the engine was starving for fuel or fuel pouring down the highway.

If you have it done at a place you trust, go for it. But I never found one I really trusted.....

Randy125 · 02-20-2014, 09:02 PM

Mike , could you elaborate on the air filter needs some dirt to be effective. Thanks

Mike Thomas · 02-21-2014, 02:38 AM

Most service manuals will talk about not changing the air filter too often. Air filter manufacturers also usually include this documentation.

Any filter media works because of small holes or passages that block particles of dirt or debris. The smaller the hole, the smaller the particle it can filter. When a filter has dirt in it the holes are partially blocked by dirt, thus making the holes even smaller than the manufacturer was able to produce, thus, better filtering.

I know it sounds counter intuitive, but if you do a little more research, you should find plenty of documentation on the subject.

I guess we are supposed to trust that filter gauge...

ladagobago · 02-21-2014, 05:39 AM

There has been more discussion on this in many other threads. Do a search.
here is one thread
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/oil-...ol-186074.html

Personally, after literally hundreds of oil changes and removal tools, I prefer the three tong removal tool found it a sears. Now some OP feel this is capable of damage to the new filter but my experience says no. Put the filter on by hand too tight and then use the tool to turn the 3/4

when reading the instructions found with the filter they will state how much to tighten, generally in term of how many or much turns.

I use a large tub to drain the oil. I cut a plastic 25 gallon drum in half. fit well under the back. Luckily, I am a member of a boat club where we have our own oil dump. Interesting that we dump all spent fluids into this container. this includes old gas, oils and anitfreeze. they pay us to pick it up for recycling, many retail stores including walmart will accept your spent oil.

I prefer to use a wrench to remove the plug. After all, I am under there anyway.

Bigd9 · 02-21-2014, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Thomas

I had semi trucks for several years. When they were in, I did the service on them. If they happened to be out on the road, we would have them serviced at all kinds of places, TA, Petro, Freightliner, you name it, we tried them all. I do know this. When I serviced the same truck two times in a row, each grease zerk would take 4-5 pumps. When it was serviced on the road and I did it the next time, it was 10-12 pumps per zerk. Now what do you think was happening? I am pretty convinced, they never got the grease gun out.

And I can't tell you how many times we would be 30 miles down the road, after getting it serviced, and oil running down the oil filters, because they forgot to tighten the filter. Or how many times, the fuel filters were put in wrong, and the engine was starving for fuel or fuel pouring down the highway.

If you have it done at a place you trust, go for it. But I never found one I really trusted.....

Boy oh boy your sound like me! In my previous life I was in a position where I had over 40 cars and trucks assigned to my division. Like you said the operators would get them serviced at a variety of places, and we experienced a variety of nightmares. From dip sticks found just lying on top of the engine to drain plugs so loose and leaking that it probably would have fallen out completely at any moment. How about the air filter completely missing but the air filter cover was installed.

I took my previous diesel pusher to Cummins for a complete rebuild of the engine while it was still under warranty. This factory authorized shop had was spotless giving you the feeling this was one well run facility. However, when I got my baby back I found the oil cooler was cracked and leaking engine oil into the coolant, and then I found 1 bolt missing from the engine to transmission flange, and two other bolts in that flange were only finger tight! As a explanation for their sloppiness the manager told me "we hate to work on motorhomes".