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Old 03-06-2017, 01:26 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty77 View Post
TR4 & Jleamo1 - You two have taken this thread to a very positive level of assistance. Great road map for those that may wish to follow and go the FASS (Or other pump.) route.

The one thing I did not do, and may go back an add later, is the fuel pressure gauge.

And know buried in this thread TR4 pointed out that another non ignition 12v source, the one that Braze's Alan Sanders recommended and used for my install, is the Sauer Danfoss Fan Controller found on many coaches.

Our set up has worked (Knocking on wood!) flawlessly for us. Coming up on 14K miles now.

Now since you two, and others on this board with higher expertise, are so good at sharing your knowledge - how about a simple method to crank an additional 50-75HP, and heck even bump the torque up to say 1350Lbs - with our CAPS era ISL's!

All kidding aside. I really appreciate what this Cummins board does to help fellow Cummins owners. As to you go back and read over the years, experts cycle in and then for many reasons cycle out - but at any given time, this board seems to have an abundant group willing to help. Many thanks to all...
Smitty
To all you guys, You too Smitty, this has been a great thread for anyone who has or will have any issues with the CAPS system, or wants to know about the CAPS system!!!

This really is one of the most Unknown, Untalked about Weakspots on the Cummins series Engines! when we started doing our research I spend weeks reading about what was good and what was bad or Iffy and never found a word about the Caps problems until this happened ????
Guess now I Know.........

jleamo1, thank you for the diagram, It does make it very clear to picture it and work out a simple functional system. Awesome!!!

And again every contributor to this thread thank you Now I just have to find a volunteer HD mechanic to do the work and then hoping that the main Caps Pump is not damaged? Maybe then I can recuperate from my H.A. 2 weeks ago.
Dr. says 6 to 10 mos. should do it, give or take

Hey like I said, got nothing to complain about, I"M Still ALIVE !!!!!!

Ed



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Old 03-07-2017, 10:10 AM   #100
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Guys, good luck and I am always will to help another fellow RV'r.
As we know the manufactures (all of them) in the industry tend to tend to "take the money and run" and let us holding the headaches afterwards.
If you need any help don't hesitate to reach out.
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:50 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by jleamo1 View Post
Guys, good luck and I am always will to help another fellow RV'r.
As we know the manufactures (all of them) in the industry tend to tend to "take the money and run" and let us holding the headaches afterwards.
If you need any help don't hesitate to reach out.
I will let everybody know how things turn out !!!
I do think that's important too, otherwise it's kind of what do you do it for???
So check back later for the results.

Ed
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:36 PM   #102
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Just installed the fass pump system on a 02 ISL. Had Brazels rv performance in Centralia, WA do the work.
Afterwards as the engine was running we disconnected the power to the pump. The engine continued to run smoothly, and accelerated while parked just fine. We let it run for a couple of minutes before shutting down the engine. Waited 10 min, with the pump still off, it fired right back up with no issues.
So with that I decided to remove the unused fuel lines to and from the original lift pump, and just put plugs in the lift pump itself. Really can't see any reason to leave the old fuel lines in place. But that was a personal choice.
Engine now runs much smoother at low idle, but haven't been out on the road yet. I'll post more when I get home.Click image for larger version

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Old 04-11-2017, 07:33 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleamo1 View Post
funjnt, correct, with the Fass pump if it were to fail you would stop all fuel to the CAPS pump, this would cause the engine to stall immediately, rather than run as it would have prior with little to no fuel supply. I believe the no fuel and a quick stall would be better than low flow and over heating the pump while operating the coach with an unknown low fuel supply. I have a gauge on the dash monitoring fuel pressure between the last filter and the CAPS pump, just in case...Plus it can be used to see what condition the filters are in.
My Fass pump does not flow fuel through the existing Cummins lift pump. Per Cummins the check valve would fail if attempted to do so, therefore those ports are plugged on the factory lift pump. The factory lift pump only acts as a manifold now for returned fuel from the CAPS pump or Cylinder head, by Cummins design if the CAPS pump or cylinder head have too much fuel they will return it to the tank via the factory lift pump.
My fuel schematic is as follows.
Tank,
one way check valve (to keep fuel in the lines and pump, so no dry starts on the FASS pump)
Fuel water separator
Fass Pump
Secondary filter, T in the line after the secondary filter before CAPS for gauge sending unit.
CAPS
Quote:
Originally Posted by TR4 View Post
I've always wondered if this would happen. I've used other electric pumps that I could draw fuel through them when not running. I called Fass and was told you can draw fuel through the pump if it fails. So, if the motor was running, and the Fass pump failed, the gear pump on the CAPS should be able to draw fuel through Fass pump to the accumulator pump. This would keep the motor running. If you had a fuel pressure gauge, you would see you had a Fass pump problem. At this point you could troubleshoot the problem before shutting down the motor.

Now I'm going by what the Fass rep told me, in theory it should work. At least the motor won't just shut down. When I take my RV out of storage I'll start it, bring the idle up, and pull the fuse. I won't be doing this for a couple of months, so if anyone else with this system wants to give it a try......???

I'll report back my findings.

Bill
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleamo1 View Post
Bill, not me buddy! With all of the problems I had a few years ago with deteriorated fuel lines and a poor fuel delivery system design to begin with, my CAPS pump is on borrowed time as far as I am concerned, too risky.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
Just installed the fass pump system on a 02 ISL. Had Brazels rv performance in Centralia, WA do the work.
Afterwards as the engine was running we disconnected the power to the pump. The engine continued to run smoothly, and accelerated while parked just fine. We let it run for a couple of minutes before shutting down the engine. Waited 10 min, with the pump still off, it fired right back up with no issues.
So with that I decided to remove the unused fuel lines to and from the original lift pump, and just put plugs in the lift pump itself. Really can't see any reason to leave the old fuel lines in place. But that was a personal choice.
Engine now runs much smoother at low idle, but haven't been out on the road yet. I'll post more when I get home.Attachment 157971Attachment 157972
Brett,

Now I don't have to experiment with my ISL.. This is great news knowing that if the Fass pump fails, the motor will not just shut down, letting you safely pull off the road.

I also believe having a fuel pressure gauge is an important upgrade to monitor the pump and filters. Thanks for posting back.

Bill
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Old 04-11-2017, 08:47 PM   #104
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I agree would not do one of these without a fuel pressure gauge. You can't see the sending unit in the photo as it's on the other side of the fuel pump.
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Old 04-11-2017, 11:08 PM   #105
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JUst installed a new lift pump because of a serious leak. Thought I could make it until the end of may but didn't make it.

So, the big question of the day is how much $$$? I am still considering the Fass pump
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Old 04-12-2017, 09:39 AM   #106
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Don,

You have the same fuel system I have. If your doing it yourself, I would figure under $700- for pump, hoses and fittings. To save on downtime, you can install the pump and do most of your wiring first. Then when your ready for the changeover, it's a matter of disconnecting two fuel lines, capping them, and installing the two new lines. This is all done in the rear bay, you don't have to crawl under the coach for fuel lines.

Leave your old lift pump in place as a backup. Easy to revert back to the old system. There are a lot of members on this thread that will help you with questions. I give all credit to Smitty for originality posting this upgrade.

Here's the pump I used;
FASS FA D08 095G Adjustable 95GPH Fuel Pump

Bill
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Old 04-12-2017, 10:12 AM   #107
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Don,
Pump runs 436.00. Brazels estimated 8 hrs. for pump and fuel pressure gauge. I ran conduit first so mine went quicker.
I agree with Bill considering you have a new lift pump, I would cap the fuel lines and leave in place. My lift pump was original and had a small leak so no way would I use it again.
With yours being a new CAPS and lift pump, I wouldn't get in too big of a hurry.
Ben did the install, and he took his time and did a really neat job.
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:58 PM   #108
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Brett, you are right. I'm going to get some mileage out of my new injector and lift pumps before I get real excited. I could have had a gasket replaced in the fuel pump but the warranty would have been 90 days instead of 1 year and 100K miles for the new pump. If the pump started leaking, I'd have to go through the labor rate all over again. If the original pumps lasted for 149K miles, I should be good for another few miles before I have to worry.

I do think a pressure gauge would be a worthwhile investment
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:40 PM   #109
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Don, adding a fuel pressure gauge would be a good protection for your investment.
Once you do I would be interested knowing what type of fuel pressure you get without the FASS.
Since I added the FASS at 64k, this CAPS system better take me to the grave.
Brazels installed my fuel pressure gauge at the FASS pump which is between the main and secondary filter. Which is good in a way so I know which filter is causing me problems. The fuel pressure is pretty steady on mine, only three to 4 psi difference from idle to climbing hills.
Brett
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:16 PM   #110
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Don, adding a fuel pressure gauge would be a good protection for your investment.
Once you do I would be interested knowing what type of fuel pressure you get without the FASS.
Since I added the FASS at 64k, this CAPS system better take me to the grave.
Brazels installed my fuel pressure gauge at the FASS pump which is between the main and secondary filter. Which is good in a way so I know which filter is causing me problems. The fuel pressure is pretty steady on mine, only three to 4 psi difference from idle to climbing hills.
Brett
Brett,

If you have a stock fuel system a fuel pressure gauge won't work. It would only show fuel pressure while the lift pump is running (about 30 sec.). You could run a fuel restriction gauge to monitor your fuel filters.

I haven't looked into it, but your might be able to monitor the gear pump pressure in the CAPS pump. This is one of the tests that Cummins does to diagnose the CAPS pump.

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Old 04-14-2017, 08:26 PM   #111
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Brett,



If you have a stock fuel system a fuel pressure gauge won't work. It would only show fuel pressure while the lift pump is running (about 30 sec.). You could run a fuel restriction gauge to monitor your fuel filters.



I haven't looked into it, but your might be able to monitor the gear pump pressure in the CAPS pump. This is one of the tests that Cummins does to diagnose the CAPS pump.



Bill


Bill, thanks for correcting me. I was not aware of that. I know I feel much better seeing the fuel pressure while going down the road. Only on a few hundred miles so far, and I can pretty much tell what my pressure should be as I am encountering different grades at set rpm's.
Don, I apologize, I gave you bad info.
Brett
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:57 PM   #112
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I have the Silverleaf glass dash and have a spot on it that is totally useless (oil pressure) because it is a static pressure all the time.

Think I'll talk to Silverleaf and find out if there is a way to show pump pressure on the dash. I would think that if pump pressure data goes to the ECM, it should be available on the dash so no need for an extra gauge
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