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03-17-2012, 02:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlevoix, Michigan
Posts: 611
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Starter Casting Busted and Rusted in. How do I get it out?
I have a 1995 B5.9 230HP 12 Valve in my Motor Home and I tried to remove the starter and wound up braking one of the mounting bolts and the starter casting at the solenoid mount trying to remove it. Any suggestions on how to remove it, since Brute Force and Ignorance failed to budge it, I need some other suggestions. Thank you, Ed
__________________
GSMC(SW) U.S. Navy (RETIRED) 1967-10-03 to 1993-11-01
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser on Spartan EC-2242 Chassis, Cummins B5.9, Allison MD3060, TST 507 , Toad: 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Elite W/Roadmaster tow setup
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03-17-2012, 03:47 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 246
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If it is anything like my 96, there are 3 - 12 point bolts to remove. It should be a no brainer.
HTH
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03-17-2012, 04:23 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Use penetrating oil (liquid wrench, etc.) to soak the nut and bolt threads. Use a proper size, NEW wrench, (one that isn't worn or rounded out) If it is a hex nut, get the proper sized 6 point socket, not a 12 point. Apply heat with a torch, being sure to have water or fire extinguisher at hand.
If the stud is 'robust' you might try the above steps then use an impact screwdriver (with a 6 point socket)
Impact Screwdriver Set with Case
or even an air impact wrench to 'vibrate' it loose.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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03-17-2012, 04:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 13,599
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If you have the room, I'd choose the impact wrench. After soaking per BFlinn181's post.
__________________
Gary
2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
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03-17-2012, 06:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlevoix, Michigan
Posts: 611
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Well I got it out in about 5 or 6 pieces. The Starter and the mounting Bell Housing are both made of Aluminum and the corrosion was holding it in tight. I had removed two of the 10mm 12 point bolts and broke off the third one. I will have to work on removing it tomorrow. I have been soaking it with Kroil and heating it with my Cutting torch with no luck so far. I guess I will now have to find a new starter with out a core to trade in.
__________________
GSMC(SW) U.S. Navy (RETIRED) 1967-10-03 to 1993-11-01
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser on Spartan EC-2242 Chassis, Cummins B5.9, Allison MD3060, TST 507 , Toad: 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Elite W/Roadmaster tow setup
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03-18-2012, 03:42 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Rather than Liquid Wrench, I like either Cyclo Break-away or PB Blaster
Squirt it, hammer gently, let it sit, Do it over and over till it comes free.
On the bolts. if there is no other way I have been known to dremel the heads off (or nuts off) once you have the tension off the stuck bolt.. I tapped it gently, and I do mean gently and turned it out with my fingers of all things.
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Home is where I park it!
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03-18-2012, 10:00 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 459
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One of the best methods I've found for removing rusted, hard to remove bolts, is to heat it housing with a torch, as hot as possible, then quench it with cold water until it's cool to the touch, then try the wrench. This has worked, and will work on some of the hardest bolts ever. If it works on off-road machinery, it will work on anything.
Just my $.02.
Dale
__________________
'05 Monaco Beaver 400 Quad SLD 400hp C-9 Caterpillar
2014 Grand Cherokee, Limited, diesel
Katie-Doberman Pinscher, Tigger, yellow Tabbycat.
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03-19-2012, 12:00 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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All of the above, plus, if you can get some vise grips on it, that might work. Make sure you get them as tight as possible and maybe even use a pry bar or screwdriver to break the bolt lose.
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03-20-2012, 12:13 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 112
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Here is one more tip I've learned. Use your torch to heat what the bolt is going into, then use plain old paraffin. The paraffin runs to the heat. Let it cool a bit as the expansion helps break everything loose as well. Then try again. Also if you can, weld a nut to the broken bolt, then use the paraffin. Let it cool all the way before you try and remove. When the paraffin works, you will be amazed. I have used it on everything from frozen exhaust bolts to broken bolts in heads, to ancient frozen 1 1/2" pipe plugs in old engine blocks. There is no "right" way on broken/frozen bolts. You just have to have a variety. Just make welding the nut to it the last,,because once you weld to it, it hardens the metal and make drilling it out very, very difficult.
Best of luck. It still amazes me that no one takes the time to apply never seize at the factory level. 30 seconds work for them to saves days of heartache later.
__________________
1998 Signature 42' M11 450hp - -pulling 25" enclosed trailer with SCU sandcar inside
Lovely Wife, 2 kids, 3 dogs, 2 cats
Diesel Mechanic to the stars
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03-20-2012, 12:46 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselbeaver
Best of luck. It still amazes me that no one takes the time to apply never seize at the factory level. 30 seconds work for them to saves days of heartache later.
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I've used bolts that come with a loctite agent already applied.
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03-20-2012, 06:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlevoix, Michigan
Posts: 611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunner
I've used bolts that come with a loctite agent already applied.
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Loctite and Anti-Sieze are two different products. I use both depending on the application requirements.
__________________
GSMC(SW) U.S. Navy (RETIRED) 1967-10-03 to 1993-11-01
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser on Spartan EC-2242 Chassis, Cummins B5.9, Allison MD3060, TST 507 , Toad: 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Elite W/Roadmaster tow setup
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03-20-2012, 07:54 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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Really?
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03-21-2012, 09:27 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Oakton, Va
Posts: 1,160
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I am reading that one bolt broke off. If so an ease out would be the only way to proceed. I really don't envy you and it could happen to anyone who tries to work on their engine.
__________________
Jim Walker
N Virginia
2014 Palazzo 33.2
Cummins 6.7 ISB, Allison 2100 6 Speed
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03-21-2012, 12:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlevoix, Michigan
Posts: 611
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I finally got it out I had to use my Rosebud tip some paraffin and Aero Kroil and my stud remover. I just re-tapped the holes and waiting on the new starter. I am debating whether to install Heli-Coils or not. I have them, but it is hard to work over my head to much. The old arms will bite me if I push them to far. Thanks for the hints. Ed
__________________
GSMC(SW) U.S. Navy (RETIRED) 1967-10-03 to 1993-11-01
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser on Spartan EC-2242 Chassis, Cummins B5.9, Allison MD3060, TST 507 , Toad: 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Elite W/Roadmaster tow setup
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