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05-12-2021, 08:28 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 116
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Turbo oil line return repair question
Someone else had posted about their turbo oil line leaking, so I got to looking under my rig while working on something else and sure enough, my return line going into the block was leaking as well.
So I got the new parts from Cummins, have dug into it and was pretty simple up until its time to remove the return tube connector out of the block... it won't budge. I don't want to damage the existing one to get it out as the rig is sitting in my barn currently, and technically I could still put it all back together with some of the new parts, probably still leaking, but at least it would be running.
Is there a trick to getting part # 9 on the schematic out of the block? The new item has no threads on it, it would like it just plugs into it with the O ring holding it in there.
I'll attach a photo of the leaking items and of the schematic so everyone can see what I'm talking about.
Thank you in advance.
__________________
Rob is in WA (Washougal WA east of Vancouver WA) 2019 Tiffin Zephyr
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05-12-2021, 08:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,903
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The picture appears like simply tightening the hose clamps will stop the leak.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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05-12-2021, 10:25 PM
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#3
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Community Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,034
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Looking at your photo, the top end (on turbo) of the return hose was affixed by two bolts on the flange. Lying on your back on the ground with a long rod socket you should be able to take the end off. I replaced my turbo so btdt.
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Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
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05-12-2021, 10:40 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Washougal, WA
Posts: 116
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Yes, I got the end of the metal tube that attaches to the turbo off, its the other end, Part #9 that goes into the block that doesn't wanta move.
And agreed, it looks like the leak is from the hose/clamp connection but since I've got it apart, I thought I'd replace all wear type parts, in particular that O-ring that goes in the block.
__________________
Rob is in WA (Washougal WA east of Vancouver WA) 2019 Tiffin Zephyr
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05-12-2021, 11:33 PM
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#5
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Community Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Between the Oceans
Posts: 8,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robisinwa
Yes, I got the end of the metal tube that attaches to the turbo off, its the other end, Part #9 that goes into the block that doesn't wanta move.
And agreed, it looks like the leak is from the hose/clamp connection but since I've got it apart, I thought I'd replace all wear type parts, in particular that O-ring that goes in the block.
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Gee finally I saw #9 on the schematic... I need to go get a pair of new eye glasses . It seems the rubber hose is held by the clamps. I assume after removing both clamps, wiggle n' pull might get the whole thing out of the block.
__________________
Steven & Polly
2000 Country Coach Intrigue 40' ISC 350
2018 Ford Explorer 4WD
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05-13-2021, 12:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,442
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Part #9 , will be a press fit into the block and probably rusted in SOLID.
No way to remove without destroying it , and dropping rust and metal into the oil pan.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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