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01-16-2022, 01:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 176
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Turbo pipe leak
Is there a way to get this connection to 100% sealed?
I just noticed it is blowing a nice Breese at an idle.. mine does not have any type of gasket.. aluminum on aluminum with a stainless clamp..
Am I missing something??
98 5.9 24 valve
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01-16-2022, 08:25 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 3,020
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Turbo pipe leak
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98fleetwood
Is there a way to get this connection to 100% sealed?
I just noticed it is blowing a nice Breese at an idle.. mine does not have any type of gasket.. aluminum on aluminum with a stainless clamp..
Am I missing something??
98 5.9 24 valve Attachment 353963
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Take it apart and clean the carbon out. CAT makes some ceramic exhaust connection sealant. I don’t know the part number. Might need a new clamp?
Edit: duh, I see it’s the intake side. Surfaces have to meet flat and yes a new clamp may help as the taper on the old clamp may be spread out.
__________________
2002 American Tradition 40'
Cummins 8.3, Banks 431hp, 1260 tq
Canyon Lake, TX
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01-17-2022, 04:41 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Posts: 1,006
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I don't see any witness marks for a leak, where is it? Did you just take it apart?
There is no gasket on that joint but appears that it is installed crooked, or is it just the camera angle?
__________________
2004 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40PKD, Cummins ISL 400
2019 Buick Envision AWD
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01-17-2022, 07:59 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowflyer1
I don't see any witness marks for a leak, where is it? Did you just take it apart?
There is no gasket on that joint but appears that it is installed crooked, or is it just the camera angle?
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It is leaking out where the nut and bolt squeeze it together..
I agree it looks crooked.. I bought this coach melted down and tore apart.. 2500 miles now.. was making sure I wasn't missing some kind of gasket.. hopefully it's just not mating properly!
Thx
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01-17-2022, 08:01 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_M
Take it apart and clean the carbon out. CAT makes some ceramic exhaust connection sealant. I don’t know the part number. Might need a new clamp?
Edit: duh, I see it’s the intake side. Surfaces have to meet flat and yes a new clamp may help as the taper on the old clamp may be spread out.
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Is there a go to spot to get new clamps?
I know of atheist 1 more I would like to replace!
Thx
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01-17-2022, 08:11 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 2,474
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Try and tighten the clamp a little more....
If still leaking, take it apart and lightly clean the mating surfaces on both ends ....
Also sometimes these clamps stretch if someone went impact use on them, and need replacement
A leak there is a boost leak, so if you feel it at idle, it's a major leak under engine load.
You should be able to get that clamp at any heavy truck dealer or big truck parts place like Fleetpride
__________________
1999 American Eagle
ASE med/heavy certified technician
ASE advanced diesel certified
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01-17-2022, 08:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 644
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I would line it up and crank that clamp down a little tighter. Worst case you can get a v band clamp at almost any parts store.
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01-17-2022, 08:56 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,397
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If it has been run with it loose for a long time, likely the mating surfaces are damaged. You might be able to seal it with some sealant if it is damaged. At the least, put a new clamp on.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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01-17-2022, 09:06 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7,882
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Yup, take it apart.
"Resurface" both halves-- Some wet dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass works well for the part you can remove.
Then make sure the two pieces are square before installing and tightening the clamp. If you need a new clamp, any parts house that caters to the OTR truck trade should have one in stock.
__________________
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38FDDS. Ex: 1997 Safari Sahara. Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
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01-17-2022, 09:19 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Posts: 3,020
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As mentioned if you can feel it leak at idle it’s a major leak under power and you should see some major gain in horsepower when you get it sealed up.
__________________
2002 American Tradition 40'
Cummins 8.3, Banks 431hp, 1260 tq
Canyon Lake, TX
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01-18-2022, 04:48 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 5,819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_M
As mentioned if you can feel it leak at idle it’s a major leak under power and you should see some major gain in horsepower when you get it sealed up.
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When you buy the clamp pay attention to the dimension "C" in the photo. If you get one that is too large it wont seal. Possibly the last guy that worked on your turbo used the wrong clamp.
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01-19-2022, 04:42 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Posts: 1,006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB
When you buy the clamp pay attention to the dimension "C" in the photo. If you get one that is too large it wont seal. Possibly the last guy that worked on your turbo used the wrong clamp.
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Is there a way to determine what dimension C needs to be unless you pull the old clamp out and measure while the pipe is still there?
Doesn't the tube dia & dim B (diameter at the flare) determine that?
A note of caution to OP, that clamp has a pretty small bolt and can't take much torque. When I removed the old exhaust, that bolt snapped right off without hardly any effort.
I took the old clamp to Fleetpride and they got me a new one.
The new clamp had the torque spec on the box. Can't recall but it was not much.
The old clamp had caked into the turbo and pipe so well that I had to beat it out.
__________________
2004 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40PKD, Cummins ISL 400
2019 Buick Envision AWD
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01-19-2022, 06:12 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 176
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Thx everyone! Once again this group is Awesome! It ended up not being all the way seated... and there was an orange rubber o-ring on it (never looked at it that closely)..
I bought the master rebuild kit back when I rebuilt the engine... looked through my left over gaskets and there was an o-ring... didn't look bad but I replaced it anyway... no leaks now!
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