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MnTom · 04-11-2015, 12:34 PM

I can see where you are somewhat disheartened by the moisture, but you will be fine. You can crank the engine all you want with no fuel to the IP. The P-7100 is lubricated by the engine oil. Priming it would not hurt but not necessary provided you used assembly lube. Personally I would wait until I had everything ready to go and unplug the shut down solenoid. Then crank until your hearts content. Once you are satisfied plug in the solenoid and enjoy the sound!

Piker · 04-11-2015, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnTom

I can see where you are somewhat disheartened by the moisture, but you will be fine. You can crank the engine all you want with no fuel to the IP. The P-7100 is lubricated by the engine oil. Priming it would not hurt but not necessary provided you used assembly lube. Personally I would wait until I had everything ready to go and unplug the shut down solenoid. Then crank until your hearts content. Once you are satisfied plug in the solenoid and enjoy the sound!

Well, I did use assembly lube...

I was thinking it would be a lot easier on the starter to get the oil system primed if the engine wasn't working against compression... but I guess that's not really true either since when you compress the air on the up stroke, the air then pushes the cylinder back down, so aside from friction, it's a net zero I guess?

We'll see...

Just now getting out of work... finishing up an easy week with just a little over 65 hours.

The kiddies are spending tonight at their grandmas, so I might do a little wrenching yet today.

-cheers

Pelledan · 04-11-2015, 01:57 PM

Piker,
I don't see a primer knob on the P7100. There must be a lift pump between the 7100 and the fuel supply. Does the fuel system then self prime or does something need to be loosened to purge the air? Back in the day, each injector had 2 fuel return ports that sequentially connected all the injectors. Since injector #1 had no following injector going forward, its forward facing return port had a neoprene cap on it. The cap was temporarily removed during priming to allow the pressurized fuel to purge the air through until fuel came out of that port and the cap was re-installed. After that it was time to rock & roll.
Make sure the oil filter is filled with oil before you start (fuel filter should be full also) and don't worry about the moisture on the crank and such. It will be gone in a matter of seconds and once the oil gets hot, the moisture will evaporate out through the road tube.

Expect the engine to run ratty for 5 or 10 seconds until all the injectors are properly fueling their cylinders. Keep an eye out for leaks (coolant, oil & fuel) particularly around the pressure feed line connection to the turbine bearing and an ear out for sounds that seem unusual. Expect smoke on start up and as the engine heats up. Oil or any lubricants that were inadvertently transferred to the externals of the engine during assembly will begin to burn off, particularly the exhaust parts. If you plan on keeping the engine cover off for the start up (I would, to inspect) you might consider a box fan pointing out of the bedroom window to help get the smoke and such out of the RV before it comes forward into the cockpit.

I am a huge proponent of safety, so keep a fire extinguisher or two readily at hand for the first run until you feel that all is well.

When all is done and you're ready to test fire, remember that you may be the one turning the key, but your garage will be filled with all of us who will be with you in spirit.
Dan

MnTom · 04-11-2015, 07:21 PM

The lift pump has a primer button on it. On my Dodge a stick about 3 feet long make it much easier to prime. I don't know what is on the motorhome engine, but I am sure there is a primer on it.
I have been on jobs where we were working 7 twelve hour days so I understand about the hours. One of the last jobs I was on I had one day off in seven weeks working nights. Rest up and see how you feel Piker!

Piker · 04-11-2015, 09:09 PM

[QUOTE=MnTom;2507598]The lift pump has a primer button on it. On my Dodge a stick about 3 feet long make it much easier to prime. I don't know what is on the motorhome engine, but I am sure there is a primer on it.
QUOTE]

Yep, there's a primer on the lift pump. It's REALLY difficult to get to because it's so close to the frame and there's a bunch of lines and cables that run right past it. I'd guess it's exactly the same as what's on the dodge trucks from this era.

I did a little wrenching this afternoon. I was excited to get the turbo put on, so I started there. I had to rotate the exhaust housing, the compressor housing, AND the wastegate actuator pod. The exhaust housing and actuator attach exactly the same as the old turbo, but the compressor housing uses an enormous snap ring, whereas the old turbo used a v-band clamp.

The first picture just shows the big snap ring. The second picture shows the turbo bolted to the exhaust manifold, and ready to be bolted in.

-cheers

Piker · 04-11-2015, 09:21 PM

Bolting up the manifold/turbo assembly to the engine was pretty easy... though a bit heavy to handle while standing on my head in the engine bay. I used some high temp anti-seize on the manifold bolts... which I purchased new 2 years ago when I replaced the manifold.

So here's a picture of everything once it was bolted in. I left the old turbo at work, so I still have to take the fitting for the oil feed line off of it and put on the new... and also the drain line.

-cheers

Piker · 04-11-2015, 09:56 PM

I managed to get the rest of the bolts put in the bell housing this afternoon. Originally I just had the top 4 bolts in to get the motor mounts lined up.

I also bolted the flexplate to the flywheel today. This is done through a small access hole in the transmission adapter. (first pic) I think there were 10 8mm bolts around the outside of the flexplate. I indexed the engine using a ratchet on the damper pulley to align each bolt hole in the center of the access one at a time. It looked like originally the bolts had some sort of thread locker on them, so I used a bit of Loctite here.

Once all the bolts were in, I bolted the cover back over the access. One of the bolts is used to attach a bracket for the slobber tube, so I installed that as well. (2ndpic)

-cheers

Piker · 04-11-2015, 10:03 PM

I also got the starter put in today too. Pretty simple... 3 bolts and a couple wires. I still need to replace some of the clamps that hold the wiring harness and some heater hoses, as they're rusted pretty bad.

-cheers

Piker · 04-11-2015, 10:34 PM

Now to the air cleaner situation. I marked up this first pic to show where the intake tubing runs from the turbo, underneath that mass of blue wiring, through that little square opening in the steel framing, turns left and into the filter. (You can see the clamps for the filter to the left)

The read area in the 2nd picture indicates the area of the intake that is surrounded by the framing. The boot end of the filter is actually back inside the framing, making it very difficult to even get to the clamp on that connection.

So as you can see, it's not really an issue of a complicated setup with too many twists and turns... This is actually a very simple setup... it's just that it's almost impossible to make sure the last connection to the filter is secure because of the framing. The right angle boot doesn't worry me too much, because that connection is made outside of the framing and then the whole thing inserted though it. The boot also seems very heavy duty... not flimsy feeling like the rubber on the Ecolite boot.

At this point, I'm not sure I have room for the style of filter housing I wanted to use... so I was thinking that maybe I could still use the Ecolite filter setup, but use a longer piece of steel tubing between that 90 degree elbow and the filter. This would at least give more room to be able to access the clamp on the filter for proper tightening and inspection once in a while.

I guess I'll have to do some more measuring and maybe even make a mockup of the Donaldson housing to see if I can find room for it. But if I can't, I think the longer piece of steel tube would make a big enough difference in the setup that I might feel comfortable with it.

Well, that's it for tonight... it's been a long day... I'm heading in to town tomorrow to get some miscellaneous parts (filters, hose clamps, antifreeze, etc) so I can keep moving forward on this. I should be able to get far enough along tomorrow that I'll be able to crank the engine over to prime the oil system if I want.

-cheers

dennis45 · 04-11-2015, 11:27 PM

Hi Piker,
Excellent work. One thing you might consider is to grab your oil can and with the Turbo Lube Line removed, pump some oil into the bearing housing just prior to starting. No need to get carried away, just enough to provide lubrication on start up.
Also, as mentioned in previous posts, crank it over on the starter with the fuel shutoff disconnected till you see some oil pressure on the gauge.

Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

SteveWV · 04-12-2015, 06:41 AM

Piker,
Instead of a rubber 90, why not use a metal 90. Don't know your pipe sizes. Your elbow looks to be a reducer elbow. I was thinking a exhaust pipe ninety might work. The ends would be longer and stick out more to fasten the boots and clamps. Don't know how tight a fit it would be to get it through the opening though. Something like this Truck Exhaust Elbow | Truck Pipe Elbow | 6''- 90 Degree 13 X 13 OD-OD Aluminized or this Aluminized Short Radius 90 Degree Elbow 6" OD/OD Then use a rubber reducer to get down to turbo intake size.
Just an idea, Steve

MnTom · 04-12-2015, 11:06 AM

Steve, to me it doesn't look like a longer 90* elbow would work very well due to the short radius 90 on the other end.
Piker, if you want to keep the boots on just pull all of the boots off and spray the joints with cheap hairspray. The cheap stuff has enough varnish like stuff in it to allow it to act as lube to install but will glue things together to the point you would have a devil of a time to separate them after they dry.

mchero · 04-12-2015, 11:16 AM

Hmm I should grab a can of cheap hairspray from my cheap date! LOL Great idea.

Piker · 04-12-2015, 06:50 PM

Hairspray trick sounds good. I guess I'm not so much worried about the boots coming loose, as tearing. That's what happened to the air cleaner boot. It didn't come loose... it ripped wide open. I'm a little concerned that maybe the Ecolite filters just aren't very good... or maybe this one had a flaw... or maybe it was just so miserable to try and tighten that the whole assembly was torqued up and that's what tore the boot. I dunno. I sure wish I had room for the Donaldson housing, but I don't think i do.

That said... I think I'm feeling ok about just lengthening the steel tube between the 90° boot and the air cleaner. I can probably go an extra 4" without having to really move the air filter mounting straps. 4" of room to properly tighten the clamp on the air cleaner would seem like a mile compared to the room I used to have... which was pretty much none. It would also give me the ability to do a decent visual inspection once in a while. You gotta know that if I ever get this thing back on the road again, that I'll be paranoid about this happening again... Maybe I'll move the backup camera to inside the engine bay so I can monitor the air cleaner boot at all times.

I did make a little more progress today. I got the starter wired up... the alternator installed and wired up... the oil pressure sending unit installed and wired... temperature sending unit installed and wired... put a new oil filter on... and installed the oil feed and drain for the turbo. I had to rotate the center of the turbo a little bit more to get everything to line up perfectly, but luckily the bolts I needed to get to were pretty easy to reach.

So, with the oil system all sealed up, I decided to go ahead and crank the engine to get the oil system primed. Here's a few seconds of video... just for fun... in preparation for the real deal when I actually get to fire this puppy up...

Hopefully maybe this coming weekend...

The whistling sound is air screaming out of the fuel injector holes... lol.

Looks like I have to maybe clean the battery terminals on the chassis battery... the battery is good, but there's not even enough juice in the line to turn on the parking lights. As soon as I flip the switch to tie into the coach batteries... everything comes to life. Hopefully, it's just dirty battery terminals... not sure what else it would be.

all for now... enjoy the 5 seconds of video... lol. I wasn't even going to post it but thought what the heck...