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Old 12-31-2019, 05:34 PM   #1
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Water in oil

I have a 2008 Tiffin with a 360 turbo Cummins with 53000 miles. The liner in my #1 cylinder was leaking water into my oil. In reviewing all cylinder liners found that all 6 liners were eroded and was about to start leaking. Cummins tells me that the cause was that the coolant was not the proper mixture. Has anyone else had this type of problem? I don’t understand that with only 53K miles why this would be an acceptable answer. The cost to repair with almost a complete rebuild engine @ $11200.00. No help from Cummins. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:58 PM   #2
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Wet sleeved engine. The supplemental coolant additive (SCA) level needs to be regularly monitored!
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:34 PM   #3
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Pitting in cylinder liners is a direct result of cavitation erosion. This type of erosion develops from normal mechanical and chemical processes that take place during engine operation.

Cavitation of the cylinder wall begins when air bubbles remove the wall’s oxide film, which protects the metal from coming into contact with oxygen and corroding. Flexing of the cylinder wall (after fuel combustion) causes the cylinder liner to vibrate, and creates vapor bubbles in the coolant. These vapor bubbles form on the outside of the cylinder wall and explode inward, or implode, resulting in tiny pits on the cylinder wall’s protective oxide layer. When vapor bubbles continue to implode, enough energy is released to physically attack the cylinder wall and remove the oxide film. Corrosion and pitting then take place at a high rate.

If a pit breaks through the cylinder wall, coolant can leak into the cylinder and contaminate the lube oil. A sludge forms that can interfere in ring and bearing functions. Wear rates increase significantly and engine seizure may result.

The best way to prevent cavitation from occurring is to follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations on additive replacement. When using a standard heavy-duty coolant, SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive) should be added every 250 hours to help replenish the eroding oxide film.*

https://www.cat.com/en_US/by-industr...er-liners.html
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:50 PM   #4
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You're lucky if only $11,200. My two rebuilds (NOT related to cavitation) cost me $53,000 in 5 years. The ISX 650's have valves that break off, cure is new head, valves, liners and pistons.
Here's a perforated liner.
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Old 01-02-2020, 06:06 AM   #5
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Lots of discussion on this personally I did not want to worry about this so I went to final charge coolant and pretty much have done this with every diesel i have.
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:06 PM   #6
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Lots of discussion on this personally I did not want to worry about this so I went to final charge coolant and pretty much have done this with every diesel i have.
Boyland, can you explain "I went to the final charge coolant". Not sure what this means.
I just lost my cummins 8.3L engine due to cavitation .
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:44 PM   #7
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Final Charge,

https://www.peakhd.com/product_lines/final_charge/faq/Click image for larger version

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Old 01-16-2021, 06:58 PM   #8
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TB your thoughts? I’m at 30k and thinking it’s time for a complete flush and new stuff, so....? My chart says 48 mo, no mileage standard.mOts a,2016. So, according to the calendar it’s time. And maybe time is the point. Time for corrosion. Another miles. But 30k miles seems early. A $400 coolant flush and service sounds like cheap insurance and I’m all for having this done while I’m in Nappanee in March, but now I’m thinking I might want to either do it myself or at least supply the coolant, i.e. Final Charge.

So.....whaddayah think?
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Old 01-16-2021, 07:19 PM   #9
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Yes, Coolant neglect is a common problem with many RV'ers. They seem to just think millage and Not time :(
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Old 01-16-2021, 08:34 PM   #10
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Its not the coolant that goes bad, its the additives, that prevent cavitation that need to be replaced.

I would follow the engine manafacters recommendation.Attachment 314731
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Old 01-16-2021, 08:51 PM   #11
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Yes, Coolant neglect is a common problem with many RV'ers. They seem to just think millage and Not time :(
Not really their fault. A LOT of owners have no idea their wet sleeved diesel engine has different coolant requirements than their daily driver !
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Old 01-16-2021, 09:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Pitting in cylinder liners is a direct result of cavitation erosion. This type of erosion develops from normal mechanical and chemical processes that take place during engine operation.

Cavitation of the cylinder wall begins when air bubbles remove the wall’s oxide film, which protects the metal from coming into contact with oxygen and corroding. Flexing of the cylinder wall (after fuel combustion) causes the cylinder liner to vibrate, and creates vapor bubbles in the coolant. These vapor bubbles form on the outside of the cylinder wall and explode inward, or implode, resulting in tiny pits on the cylinder wall’s protective oxide layer. When vapor bubbles continue to implode, enough energy is released to physically attack the cylinder wall and remove the oxide film. Corrosion and pitting then take place at a high rate.

If a pit breaks through the cylinder wall, coolant can leak into the cylinder and contaminate the lube oil. A sludge forms that can interfere in ring and bearing functions. Wear rates increase significantly and engine seizure may result.

The best way to prevent cavitation from occurring is to follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations on additive replacement. When using a standard heavy-duty coolant, SCA (Supplemental Coolant Additive) should be added every 250 hours to help replenish the eroding oxide film.*

https://www.cat.com/en_US/by-industr...er-liners.html
Are you saying that someone in a cold climate using standard heavy duty coolant that SCA is much more important than someone in a non freezing state barely using a 50-50 mixture? Also, are you saying the additives in standard heavy duty coolant is the root of the problem, or the lack of using additives in standard heavy duty coolant is the problem?
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Old 01-17-2021, 03:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Yes if you read the link faq it really simplifies the maintenance elimination of maintenance

Like I said same thing we use in every diesel

I honestly cannot think of any reason not too if you are doing a flush and fill
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Old 01-17-2021, 05:56 AM   #14
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Verify compatibility of sensors before switching coolant type. FL told me that switching coolants was a no go on our previous 2014 cummins engine. Resorted to testing coolant for SCA levels which showed significantly reduced levels at 30,000 miles. Replaced coolant rather than adding SCA supplements.
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