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Old 09-26-2013, 12:45 PM   #1
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Winter Storage

Putting my coach away for winter. Do you guys recommend putting any kind of additive in the tank? It will be where I work so if it's a better idea should I start it up every once and a while? What would you recommend? Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2013, 01:50 PM   #2
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I would do both....start it up once per month for 30 minutes and then start the generator for 30 minutes.

Add Sta-Bil to the fuel tank then fill it up prior to storage.
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Old 09-26-2013, 02:15 PM   #3
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Assuming your coach is a diesel, Sta-Bil and you need a biocide...found at any marine store. Also, I disagree with vtbigdog about running it during the winter. If you are going to run it, be sure to actually drive it, and drive it hard enough to get all systems up to normal temperature...otherwise let it sit.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:15 AM   #4
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Put enough fuel additive in the tank to treat the amount of fuel in it. It should be stored with a full tank. I would drive the coach enough to ensure the treated fuel is in the complete fuel system. Then I would park it and leave it. If you can't drive it enough to get all systems up to operating temperature, you will do more damage that help.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:21 AM   #5
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Here's the answer I got direct from Cummins on winter storage:
From the perspective of the Cummins engine it is good to do either one of two things:

1) Start the engine and drive it or 2) do not start the engine.

Our engines do not gain anything by idling. In fact a diesel engine on low idle will not ever get up to operating temperatures which is bad for the engine and can cause an increase in soot production.

The other side of the story is that starting the engine and letting it idle is probably good for other things like air brakes, heating and cooling, etc.

So probably the best answer to try to get both worlds to meet is to occasionally take the unit out for a drive during times of prolonged storage.
Also, in 11+ years we've had this rig I've never added a biocide or anything else to the tank for storage and have never had any problems here in the Pacific Northwet.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:58 AM   #6
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At a rally a couple of years ago, the guys from Cummins Northwest said the same thing as posted by Mr D above. To elaborate a bit more - they also recommended that the generator be run monthly under load for at least 30 minutes whether you move the coach or not. It has to do with keeping moisture out of the generator windings.

To re-emphasize: Drive the coach enough to get everything warmed up. In most weathers that's at least 20 minutes. Longer if cold outside. Do not start it up and let it idle. If it cannot be driven, do nothing.

Having a full tank is better than a less than full tank with additives.

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Old 09-28-2013, 07:41 AM   #7
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Hey all, I'm really new at this and was really hoping we would be able to spend a summer learning all the systems. BUT life happens and we won't get out of here until Jan.. Our last unit only had water so winterizing was no problem. This one I'm NOT real sure about, it's a 2003 LaPalma gasser & my idea was to take it to a dealer in St. Louis, let them winterize it so I can forget it, unless others have a suggestion or recommendation??
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:20 AM   #8
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There's not much more than what has already been mentioned as far as the chassis is concerned. Your engine and generator antifreeze should already be at a -40'ish or colder freeze point. Your owner's manual should have a process to winterize the house water plumbing.

If not there are a number of threads here that discuss it. There are a couple of schools of thought as to whether to simply force compressed air into the plumbing and blow out the water or to use RV plumbing antifreeze (some have used vodka). Don't forget the water heater and washing machine if you have one.

In any case there are lots of discussions here about winterizing. It's not difficult to do yourself.

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Old 09-29-2013, 05:42 AM   #9
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Disconnect the the start solenoid and spin whatever over until you notice oil pressure (should you decide to start it up) & keep a battery tender (the floating type charger would be positive) plugged into the system. Along with the other suggestions. I've not run into issues with fuel needing anything other than having Grade 1 in place to deal with the colder weather. Diesel needs to be old to generate issues (a winter is not a problem).
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storage, winter

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