Got back on the compressor replacement again. Health stuff has certainly slowed me down. We live remote, so I must maintain our power and water systems as well as the vehicles.
compressor and the tough to reach hoses were installed a while back. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the hydraulic pump back away from the compressor to get the compressor out. Turns out the spacer fit tightly into the new compressor so the front gasket was held in place by the spacer. released the pump and used another ratchet strap to raise it up slightly to align the splined pump and socket on the compressor. a little petroleum jelly on the spline's made the job easy. slipped the 2nd gasket into place and Got the bolts started and slowly worked pump back into place. Still no clue what the torque should be so put a small pipe on the 10mm 12 point box end wrench and tightened to down. Noticed some thread locker up pretty high on the bolts, out of range of the threads. decided to use some antisieze on the treads for an consistent torque on both bolts.
I removed both the negative and positive cable running to the starter from the batts and switch. Gave me the clearance I needed to work with the hydraulic pump to get it back into place and bolted up. I found that the positive cable was 8 feet long to reach a 42" distance. the cable was folded into a bundle and zip tied to one of the hydraulic lines. Huh?? must have been a sale on 8 foot 000 cables that week when this coach was built. I shortened cable and installed new crimped end. Liquid electrical tape on both cleaned ends to seal out moisture. With the cables removed the entire process of installing the h pump was much much easier. the negative cable runs over the top of the H pump near the rear, making pulling the H pump back a bit tougher than it needed to be. So, pull both the pos and neg cables for an easier job. Had to replace some of the wiring loom as it has dry rotted.
I haven't replaced the unloader valve because the original looks fine, there is no oil in it and it was functioning correctly when I started. It is pretty easy to get to if it should fail. As I understand this valve it controls the upper end air pressure, since mine was correct at 125, I feel it is still in perfect condition.
I did have to make my air unloader valve gasket and air vent gasket. I put them on dry.
Had to stop at 6 today, back was pretty sore due to the angles that i was working at. most of the work is from underneath but i must be in the kneeling position to reach everything. left off with the switch partially wired. since I labeled the wiring it is a pretty simple thing.
a couple of notes for myself as well as other folks: made a bar to fit across the access opening inside the closet, used a threaded eye that fit into the top of the compressor with a ratchet strap to let the compressor down once I had pulled the hydraulic pump back out of the way with a 2nd ratchet strap. Compressor weights about 70 lbs with the fittings on it. I painted the new compressor Cat barf yellow to match engine. When I pulled out the old one I installed the hose fittings on the new compressor exactly like on the old compressor, using the old one as a model. made installing the hoses a breeze after the new one was installed. Installed the new compressor the same way having the wife lock the strap while I benchpressed the new compressor into place. I used the original gasket as it was in perfect condition.
20 years ago I would have had this done in 2 eight hour days allowing the paint to dry. But at my age and health issues it has take me a long time to complete the job. I'm writing this as I have a heat pad on my lower back at 2am in the morning.....