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Old 04-10-2021, 02:26 AM   #29
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Got back on the compressor replacement again. Health stuff has certainly slowed me down. We live remote, so I must maintain our power and water systems as well as the vehicles.

compressor and the tough to reach hoses were installed a while back. I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the hydraulic pump back away from the compressor to get the compressor out. Turns out the spacer fit tightly into the new compressor so the front gasket was held in place by the spacer. released the pump and used another ratchet strap to raise it up slightly to align the splined pump and socket on the compressor. a little petroleum jelly on the spline's made the job easy. slipped the 2nd gasket into place and Got the bolts started and slowly worked pump back into place. Still no clue what the torque should be so put a small pipe on the 10mm 12 point box end wrench and tightened to down. Noticed some thread locker up pretty high on the bolts, out of range of the threads. decided to use some antisieze on the treads for an consistent torque on both bolts.

I removed both the negative and positive cable running to the starter from the batts and switch. Gave me the clearance I needed to work with the hydraulic pump to get it back into place and bolted up. I found that the positive cable was 8 feet long to reach a 42" distance. the cable was folded into a bundle and zip tied to one of the hydraulic lines. Huh?? must have been a sale on 8 foot 000 cables that week when this coach was built. I shortened cable and installed new crimped end. Liquid electrical tape on both cleaned ends to seal out moisture. With the cables removed the entire process of installing the h pump was much much easier. the negative cable runs over the top of the H pump near the rear, making pulling the H pump back a bit tougher than it needed to be. So, pull both the pos and neg cables for an easier job. Had to replace some of the wiring loom as it has dry rotted.

I haven't replaced the unloader valve because the original looks fine, there is no oil in it and it was functioning correctly when I started. It is pretty easy to get to if it should fail. As I understand this valve it controls the upper end air pressure, since mine was correct at 125, I feel it is still in perfect condition.

I did have to make my air unloader valve gasket and air vent gasket. I put them on dry.

Had to stop at 6 today, back was pretty sore due to the angles that i was working at. most of the work is from underneath but i must be in the kneeling position to reach everything. left off with the switch partially wired. since I labeled the wiring it is a pretty simple thing.

a couple of notes for myself as well as other folks: made a bar to fit across the access opening inside the closet, used a threaded eye that fit into the top of the compressor with a ratchet strap to let the compressor down once I had pulled the hydraulic pump back out of the way with a 2nd ratchet strap. Compressor weights about 70 lbs with the fittings on it. I painted the new compressor Cat barf yellow to match engine. When I pulled out the old one I installed the hose fittings on the new compressor exactly like on the old compressor, using the old one as a model. made installing the hoses a breeze after the new one was installed. Installed the new compressor the same way having the wife lock the strap while I benchpressed the new compressor into place. I used the original gasket as it was in perfect condition.

20 years ago I would have had this done in 2 eight hour days allowing the paint to dry. But at my age and health issues it has take me a long time to complete the job. I'm writing this as I have a heat pad on my lower back at 2am in the morning.....
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Old 04-10-2021, 02:41 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB View Post
Not every bolt will have a published torque spec. When there isn't a spec use the standard SAE Torque specs (or metric specs for metric bolts). They are easy to find on-line.

Be sure to use the torque for the "bolt size" torque and not the "wrench size".
So, today I tried to fit my new 12 point socket and torque wrench on to the hydraulic pump hold down bolts. hahahaaaa... what a joke. nothing will fit in the tiny little strangely shaped space. I've never seen a 12 point 10mm claw socket so the only thing that I found that will work is a 12 point 10mm box end wrench with a pipe on the end.... So.... I put a pipe over the end of the box end wrench and guessed at about 40ftlbs which is what I estimated it was when I took it off. From past experiences I"m sure I"m off at least 3ftlbs one way or the other.... guess the 50 years of wrenching finally came in handy... but if you see a hydraulic pump lying in the road, you will know who it belongs to.
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Old 04-28-2021, 10:46 AM   #31
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With the muffler and starter cables out of the way the job got a lot easier. stupid start cable was 8 ft long, shortened it to 42" made everything more roomy down there. Replaced the other hose that was chewed up, another$20 but worth it. used my new coolant vacuum installer to put the coolant back in, what breeze that was..... most of the other stuff went back pretty easy. lots of zip ties and such. The air dryer was completely filled with oil again, so decided on advice from this blog, I've decided to replace the airdryer with a new unit, no return. $225. including new filters. But someone on one of the blogs suggested that the filters are substandard, so I changed them both out and the interior one looks like it is a diff material than the haldex kit that I had in reserve. Removing the new spin on was a huge deal because King Kong had tightened it down. Hit it with PB Blaster overnight and finally got it loosened in the morning. I dented the spin on trying to get it loose. I used petroleum jelly to lube up the new spin on to make it easier to get off. the base looks just like the the original except it doesn't say "made in USA" stamped on the bottom. Marked and moved all the fittings over to the new one and used gasoila sealant as it goes a bit higher than rectorseal. Had to move the plug over to the new heater, soldered and shrink insulated the connections. The high pressure relief valve on the haldex kit was 175 psi and the new unit was 200 psi, I installed the lower psi unit. Ready to go back in as soon as shoulder heals. Finally an end to this project, still haven't started up the engine due to no air dryer but I"m sure it will work perfectly.
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Old 05-03-2021, 02:57 PM   #32
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5/3/21 Pulled apart the old compressor. Found that the rings are perfect, cylinder walls are perfect but looks like oil was leaking around one of the bolts, past the head gasket into the cylinders. The bolt is the one that goes through the valve access plate that is on top of the compressor head. That plate is held in place by 2 smaller bolts on top of a gasket. Then the head bolt goes through through the plate, gasket, through the head and down into the cylinder block. Some how oil was getting pulled up past the bolt threads and past the head gasket into the cylinders. Suspect that as the gasket plate gasket shrunk over time it loosened the head bolt and the head gasket failed. What I canít figure out is where the oil came from that got sucked into the valve chamber in the first place seeing that the air intake hose was bone dry with no oil in it. Might there be a crack in the cylinder block below the thread socket into the oil sump where it is being allowed to enter??? The top of the bolt was dry with no oil on it but the threads were drenched. There was oil in that socket and I didnít check for a crack down in the bottom of that thread socket and I"m not sure I would be able to see the crack anyways if there was one. I should check the tightness of this bolt in 5 or 10k miles to make sure the same thing doesnít happen again.
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Old 05-09-2021, 06:16 AM   #33
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New air dryer installed with no problems. all the hoses lined up perfectly! Even the shoulder cooperated!!

Primed the fuel system, checked all my levels, oil a bit low and tried to start it. Fired right up on the first try!!! looked for leaks with flash light and dang... couldn't find any??? that has to be a first for me!! Been working on this for 13 months and not a single leak on start up. Engine sounds great. Don't see any oil coming out of the air dryer when it pops off. Checked the air lines on the dryer with soapy bubbles and no leaks.... Need to drive it a bit to make sure but looks like problem solved!!!

Now onto the rear shocks...
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