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FIRE UP · 01-11-2019, 02:23 PM

Hey J/C,
Depending on just how long you keep this coach, and, IF you ever tear down the front of that C-7 again, at some time in the next millennia, to see what kind of condition your lube-able fan bearing is in, based on the condition of the existing one you removed at whatever mileage you have now. My sealed one hung in there for over 80K miles before I snuck a new one in. And, as I stated way back a few posts ago, it was still rotating fine when I removed it but, it was a bit noisy. I'm hoping the new one lasts as long.
Scott

discovery39s · 01-11-2019, 02:52 PM

Just to mention. If you do not buy bearings from CAT the be sure to specify Viton seals on the bearings. The death of a pre-lubed bearings is the normal Buna seals fail and you lose the grease within. Viton seals last 4X in my experience.
Nice R&R you did!

Journey cat · 01-11-2019, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

Hey J/C,
Depending on just how long you keep this coach, and, IF you ever tear down the front of that C-7 again, at some time in the next millennia, to see what kind of condition your lube-able fan bearing is in, based on the condition of the existing one you removed at whatever mileage you have now. My sealed one hung in there for over 80K miles before I snuck a new one in. And, as I stated way back a few posts ago, it was still rotating fine when I removed it but, it was a bit noisy. I'm hoping the new one lasts as long.
Scott

I guess its a roll of the dice Purchased mine from original owner with 27K.
It now has 42K From the looks of mine , Im so happy ive done what Im doing . Or I believe Id have been in trouble on the road some where on my very next trip
And thanks again for the lead on the water pump . There was a difference that was well worth the money

FIRE UP · 01-12-2019, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey cat

I guess its a roll of the dice Purchased mine from original owner with 27K.
It now has 42K From the looks of mine , Im so happy ive done what Im doing . Or I believe Id have been in trouble on the road some where on my very next trip
And thanks again for the lead on the water pump . There was a difference that was well worth the money

Roger all that Sir,
You, myself and a very, very few others have seen and experienced what it takes to get in and tear this stuff apart and keep it running down the road. Most, don't have the tools, the place to work, the background experience, the drive, and whatever else is needed to take on such deeper endeavors. That's ok. Not everyone's born to handle being a "grease monkey" or any caliper. I don't know the figures but, if I had to assume, I'd say that what, maybe 80% will pay to have what you're doing now and I've done in the past.

In the remaining 20%, probably oh, I'd say maybe 50% of that 20% will do much of their own maintenance but, not be able to tackle the immense task of what you're doing now. The remaining 50% can do it and elect to do it or not. As you're experiencing now, the grandeur of this kind of job, is not all that hard or, even very intense or complicated. It is, merely work and just labor. I mean, it's a radiator and CAC. How hard is it to see the brackets and the nuts and bolts that hold those two on? Well, actually "seeing" some of those IS a bit hard but, not impossible.

I figure, probably one of the hardest things is to figure out just HOW the radiator and CAC are actually removed on many of these rear engine coaches. On mine, I can remove the grill and that makes things considerably easier. On yours, based on your pics, you too can remove much of the rear grill assembly. But, on some, they don't have removable grills so, I don't know what the heck they do.

Anyway, good luck on the rest of the project and, hope it all goes back together without a hitch and runs like a top, CAT I should say. By the way, when it came time to put in the antifreeze, I was worried I'd encounter air pockets and all that and I'd have maybe some heating issues because of those pockets. But, I just poured in the antifreeze and, topped it off as needed and, that CAT has been running down the road with a completely normal operating temp. So, must have done something right as they say.
Scott

Journey cat · 01-12-2019, 04:28 PM

I hear you loud and clear Scott .
As I have aged I do move slower . But do things better . That I find humorus !
As there is no rush to have things back together in the AM .
Im spending more time cleaning and painting than working on the actual project .
I have recieved a cool , Gates green top Fleet Runner serpentine belt # KO80716HD
For the cost of $45
Now looking for a similar replacement for the water pump . But it looks as I will have to travel , oh another 70 mile to Feightliner because they have a factory replacement and also a hose from the cooler to radiator # 05-22240-000 .
Im tryimg my best as I dont like dirty !
What really is pissing me off is.
I cant find my Passport and Im suppose to leave for Aruba on tuesday

JaminSamin · 01-13-2019, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey cat

I have recieved a cool , Gates green top Fleet Runner serpentine belt # KO80716HD For the cost of $45 Now looking for a similar replacement for the water pump .

You’re in luck, Gates also makes a Fleetrunner - Green Stripe V belt for your water pump which I’m sure you’ll find equally cool...it’s #9341HD. You can purchase both fan belt and water pump belt from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-9341HD-.../dp/B001CI6GAM

Journey cat · 01-13-2019, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaminSamin

You’re in luck, Gates also makes a Fleetrunner - Green Stripe V belt for your water pump which I’m sure you’ll find equally cool...it’s #9341HD. You can purchase both fan belt and water pump belt from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Gates-9341HD-.../dp/B001CI6GAM

Thank you !
Its just what the doctor ordered . I have been searching for that match
May I ask if there is a chance you may know of an equivlent of the radiator hose from the lower port of radiator to the trans fluid cooler . I believe the # for that is 05-22240-000 ?

JaminSamin · 01-14-2019, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey cat

Thank you !
Its just what the doctor ordered . I have been searching for that match
May I ask if there is a chance you may know of an equivlent of the radiator hose from the lower port of radiator to the trans fluid cooler . I believe the # for that is 05-22240-000 ?

Sorry I haven’t replaced any hoses yet, hence I don’t have any FL numbers or the equivalent to provide. When I do I’ll call FL with the last 6 of my VIN and get the part numbers of what hoses they put on my chassis...then go from there. Your doing a great job of documenting, thanks!

FIRE UP · 01-14-2019, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaminSamin

Sorry I haven’t replaced any hoses yet, hence I don’t have any FL numbers or the equivalent to provide. When I do I’ll call FL with the last 6 of my VIN and get the part numbers of what hoses they put on my chassis...then go from there. Your doing a great job of documenting, thanks!

Hey Samin,
I'd have thought you'd already got registered with the DTNA system. Formally known as "Access Freightliner". I'm sure you already know this but, in having access to that system, you can look up every single nut and bolt, belt, hose, tie rod, A/C, and a zillion other parts that went into building your particular chassis. It's a great advantage. When I did what Journey Cat's doing now, I looked up all my parts I needed and, when I phoned my local (actually about an hour away) Freightliner Parts Center, I had all the part numbers already and he, the parts counter guy, was astounded at that and, the fact that he didn't have to look up all of them.

It made the procurement process of all those parts, seriously easier and more swift. Just some info for ya.
Scott

Highhood · 01-14-2019, 11:30 AM

Hi J/C, glad your project is going well, I posted earlier in your project about using a good quality wire brush to clean the grooves on the serpentine pulleys to remove all the dirt packed in by a worn belt. I had some belt chirp after putting mine back together and had to go back in the hard way to do this cleaning. It was really surprising how much crud came out. My son is a heavy equipment mechanic and came across this issue on multiple trucks in his fleet. Just a reminder in case you haven’t done yet. Jim

Journey cat · 01-14-2019, 01:50 PM

Thanks for all the input from members .
Yes all pullys have been cleaned and taped before painting .
Also , I have made contact last week with my local Freightliner . They have the hose required . It 80 mile round trip
Now that I have ordered the green Gates belt . At present I believe all I need now is the 05-22240-000. Which I will call and see if it can be delivered .
Reason being all hoses look great ,but this one is a suction hose . Id rather replace because of the rusty and broken inside spring . I also purchased for the water pump the short BLUE hose ..Now would be the time to have that one changed for sure !

ON a side note , fittings to the top side of the water pump . Have compression nuts incorperated in them . I am very curious , as to how these were constructed . Replaceing them to get proper alignment may have some throne off guard . Mine have been cleaned . And will be buttered with Never Seize for the future .

But how did they ever get the flat compression washer on in the first place has me baffled .
As the tread portion is wider than the inner diameter of the washer .
Can any one explain that ?

Paint ! Can be purchased at Wal Mart . I have used this in the past .
As it lays out flat , cleans easy and has a brillent shine .
Great for re finishing frame rails and stamped pannels .

JaminSamin · 01-14-2019, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Journey cat

ON a side note , fittings to the top side of the water pump . Have compression nuts incorperated in them . I am very curious , as to how these were constructed . Replaceing them to get proper alignment may have some throne off guard . Mine have been cleaned . And will be buttered with Never Seize for the future .

But how did they ever get the flat compression washer on in the first place has me baffled .
As the tread portion is wider than the inner diameter of the washer .
Can any one explain that.

Here is a video that explains some of the fittings and how they are used. The video is about changing out a compressor but some of the fittings are the same type as the water pump. The part where he covers the fittings starts at minute 6:40 and ends at 8:55.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=846bVMd_J4Q

Journey cat · 01-14-2019, 09:43 PM

Thanks , J/S
That Ape tells it all. Bless that man
Good explation , but Im able to figure that out myself .
Id still like to know how the fitting is made , kinda like putting a square plug in a round hole .
This may be a good question for the TV show "How Its Made "

Highhood · 01-14-2019, 11:27 PM

These fittings are basically same as SAE hydraulic fittings. The threads screwing into the water pump are actually bolt thread so that the fitting can be positioned at any desired angle to line up with hoses or steel lines. I think the washer is swaged in place to keep it above the oring. I replaced the orings and put some dielectric or silicone grease on mine. I have seen these used on a lot of machinery and hydraulic equipment but when I did my water pump, it was first time I’ve seen them on cooling systems. Jim