Community Forums

Cat · 05-02-2018, 04:55 PM

Yes Scott you're right it is a balance between horsepower loss and air flow needed. Some of the variable fan speeds manufactures do a good job of reducing the fan speed which lowers the horsepower when the engine is at 180-195f but still move enough air to the engine compartment cool/ not hot, then kick up to high fan speed when needed engine temps 195f and up. These will save fuel and give you more horsepower until gets to 195f, but its more moving parts more things to go wrong. And if you need max air flow to keep the coolant temperature down its going to take the same or almost the same (+-3%)horsepower to move that same of air flow to keep the engine cool. It only saves fuel and horsepower when engine temperatures are low.

I thought about it ( putting a variable fan) on mine to but decided the costs would cut into the Happy Hours funds.

the sights · 05-03-2018, 06:28 PM

Hello guys, Well it goes outs easier then it goes in. Rad was in then out then in.

I wish I took a pic of the "tab" that comes out of the back of rad. towards the front of motorhome.

Its has a slot and a hole so you can bolt the CAC to the shroud leave a gap do not tighten so the slot on the rad "tab" can be received by that lose bolt and then you put a bolt through the "hole" part of rad bracket/tab to the CAC

The drivers side is easy open access without air filter in place. Passenger side no room and the "hole" part of this... the hole in the rad bracket to the CAC threaded hole was off 1/8 in.

Out it goes ream....ok drill hole on rad bracket bigger and then worked on pass side first. Then we got it.

Friday plan on filling it with new Cat ELC to replace the 6 yr old old ELC.

My computer with my pics is down pics on hold for now.

Thanks for looking, Joe

the sights · 05-05-2018, 01:12 PM

Hello Guys, I got a little lazy this weekend will fill with ELC Sunday. When replacing the coolant tank (plastic tank) use speed nuts also install the level sensor before installing tank. 6 years ago I had no problem installing the new sensor when I changed to ELC. Now my eyes could not see straight so I removed the tank and threaded the sensor in then installed tank again.

Side note I believe a small shop, 2 guys could make a good amount of money if a Freighliner/ C7 rear radiator total maintenance service was offered. Just the rear end service belt,hoses rad. cleaning, water pump replacement

I paid my mechanic the $40 a hour he ask for and he was with me 15 hours...$600.00 well worth it.

I know after doing 5 or more of these 2 guys would have it down pat

Thanks for looking, Joe

the sights · 05-06-2018, 11:07 AM

Hello Guys,Today filled coolant system with Cat ELC 50/50 I mixed it from concentrate using distilled water.

Put in 34 quarts freighliner tells me system holds 38 quarts. 4 quarts of old ELC or some air not to bad.

Oh and the important thing no leaks did not think I was going to find any but you never know.

letting it sit overnight will check everything 100% before putting skit around Rad. and installing new air filter.

When I flushed the old coolant 6 years ago I don't remember how I bleed the system of air think I just ran fast idle till t-stats opened is there a correct way to burp the system on a freshly filled one?

Thanks for looking, Joe

1ciderdog · 05-07-2018, 05:06 PM

I think I just ran mine until T-stats opened then topped it off. Probably topped it off a couple of times. As a thought you might turn your dash heater to high to make sure coolant goes through those hoses.

1raptor · 05-07-2018, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the sights

Hello Guys,Today filled coolant system with Cat ELC 50/50 I mixed it from concentrate using distilled water.

Put in 34 quarts freighliner tells me system holds 38 quarts. 4 quarts of old ELC or some air not to bad.

Oh and the important thing no leaks did not think I was going to find any but you never know.

letting it sit overnight will check everything 100% before putting skit around Rad. and installing new air filter.

When I flushed the old coolant 6 years ago I don't remember how I bleed the system of air think I just ran fast idle till t-stats opened is there a correct way to burp the system on a freshly filled one?

Thanks for looking, Joe

I sent you an email but this is one of the best $100 bucks I ever spent. I just did mine an there was not air bubble to worry about and it filled it to the perfect level.

FIRE UP · 05-07-2018, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1ciderdog

I think I just ran mine until T-stats opened then topped it off. Probably topped it off a couple of times. As a thought you might turn your dash heater to high to make sure coolant goes through those hoses.

I think I did it the same way when I just did my major maintenance. I put that whole system back together and, filled it 'till it was at the line on the coolant tank. Then ran it for about 15-20 minutes in the garage (vented of course) and since that didn't bring up the temps enough, I took her out for a cruise. I stopped at a Walmart to check that tank. It was a bit low. So, I went in and picked up a gallon of distilled water. I put it in the tank in the parking lot and, it's been at that level ever since.
Scott

the sights · 05-08-2018, 03:02 PM

Hello Guys, I believe this is going to be my last post on this project. So what did I take away from this?

I was maybe 15,000/30,000 miles from a pump,belt,bearing problem. Earlier I said that is was easier then I had through it would be well.....If I was by myself it would have been very difficult. My age and size along with the design of the back of the motorhome, if it was open all the way to the bottom of the rear cap then I could of got 18 In. closer to it.

The skinny 38 year old mechanic that I help do this with was able to squat inside the back with his feet of the hitch cross member. This is how he put the water pump in.

My T-sat cover has a hose that runs to the plastic coolant tank I think this ensures the stats from getting air locked, will run it till stats open.

Should have taken notice of JaminSamin post. Or a new auto tensioner pulley would not have had to be purchased. I thank him for trying, my bad.

About cost and part #s so many different combinations of what "you" need I got all my parts at my Freighliner/Cat dealer invoice shows a make down who knows?

In Post #58 I had to slightly modify a Rad. bracket If we had not tighten the hose clamp on the CAC (right side) it may have move the 1/8 we needed I suggest when installing the cac first just start the 4 bolts with large washer first (shroud to CAC)and fit the hoses to the CAC, Then put the Rad in and secure the "side hardware" first then the 8 self tapers, hoses and arms,and bottom 2 1/2in threader rods. something like that just do the "side hardware" on the passenger side first.

I hope for the guys that followed this it was of some incite on whats involved. If anyone is within 100 miles of 18103 and thinking about doing this project let me know I would be willing to look at your motorhome and tell you want I think.

Its all about hardware location if you know what to remove and were it is out they come.

If you have a C7 cat with original hose/ belts ETC might want to look into this.

Thanks for looking Joe

Cat · 05-08-2018, 08:58 PM

Congratulations on a job successfully completed!! As we get older it gets easier to say we cant do this or that. Good on you for jumping in to it. As far as needing help--- we always needed someone bigger or smaller to help get a job done. No one size or age is best. Good job!

desertdd · 05-10-2018, 06:35 PM

Thank you for posting and I have following the thread. I might have to face this in the future as I have a Fleetwood Discovery with a rear radiator and a C7 Cat.

FIRE UP · 05-12-2018, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertdd

Thank you for posting and I have following the thread. I might have to face this in the future as I have a Fleetwood Discovery with a rear radiator and a C7 Cat.

desertdd,
As the OP, I and a few others will tell you on this job, it's not all that hard. Mild to moderate mechanical skills would be good enough. The "hard" part(s) of this kind of job is actually gaining access to some of the bolts and hose clamps for the many various hoses and retaining brackets. Sometimes the proximity of a bolt head to an engine compartment wall might only be about the depth of the thickness of a wrench. NOT GOOD!

So, do not be afraid to ask for assistance on here if and when you decide to dive into this project. Lots of good help here.
Scott

Journey cat · 12-08-2018, 09:39 PM

Well its all inward from here on an 05 34H Cat C7 350.
I chose to add to this tread to keep it alive . And have all pictures in one tread
You were not kidding Scott about those side bolts only having the with of a wrench space .
This will be the first time for me on a rear pusher . I do believe ,had I drained radiator first . And removed the bracket with the expansion tank as an assembly. I would have saved a couple hours today .

So as far as I can tell , there is no drain petcock on the radiator , So I guess that draining by means of , hose removal . I can tell this will be some time as IM doing it all while im inn there .

Any part numbers for bearings , belts thermostats , gaskets , ect would be greatly be appricated

And yes , Im back dating to a greasable fan bearing also

the sights · 12-09-2018, 06:45 AM

Hello All, I wish I had that much room when I did mine. Does your water pump have any side to side or end play? Did you get your coolant tank out without cutting it up replace nuts with speed nuts a lot easier. As far as part #s give Frieghtliner your VIN # they have the #s you need. Thanks, Joe

Journey cat · 12-09-2018, 10:06 AM

I have not as yet drained the system .
I have to figure out what valves need to be closed along the chassie before I drain it .
And prepair for the tsuami of fluid since i find no petcock on the radiator .
As far as the pump , that has yet to be seen . Although I have a new Cat pump in the box thats going in. Thanks to Fire up for the lead !