Cat 330 - 3126B Died

[connlonn]

Prepping for T-Giving trip. Went to MOHO, Turned on engine Batts. Good voltage. Started engine & all was normal on start. Idled a short while (5-7 Min.) Went to hi-idle 1100-1200 rpm to air up etc. All normal. switched cruise cntrl. off to return to idle, worked as it should. With-in 30 sec. engine slowly decelerated and died. It would not restart. Changed fuel filter after pre-filling. Still no start. ( 3 attempts). Removed both engine access panels in B/R. Nothing out of the ordinary. Got under engine and found small belt slightly loose (A/C belt?) Large serpentine belt good and tight. Back to LBCU to take a look and noticed with key on I don't have any voltage display although I have plenty of voltage on Spyder and engine turns over good.
After my lengthy scenario I now beg for your help.
Is there a fuse or relay that somehow is tied in with the volt meter and not allowing the engine to start? I'm at a loss.
Thanks for all your help and have a SAFE Thanksgiving,
Lonnie

[wolfe10]

Though it is not related to your start/run issue, that small V belt is CRITICAL TO YOUR ENGINE. That is the water pump belt. if loose, you can overheat.


It is manually adjusted, not on automatic tensionser as is the serpentine belt.


Start at the chassis battery and check that connections are clean and tight.


Is Allison shift pad illuminated with key on?

[swampdog2]

My money is on a fuel delivery problem ! ran great and all of a sudden engine dies!

[Skip426]

Cat engines have an inline 20 amp fuse for suppling battery power to the Cat ECM . Usually close to the chassis battery positive terminal .

LBCU could be looking at volts as supplied to the ECM .

What chassis and year is your coach ?
Freightliner?

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by swampdog2

My money is on a fuel delivery problem ! ran great and all of a sudden engine dies!

Could be, but with "no voltage display" that would be two probably unrelated failures at the same time.


And, perhaps some translation/explanation:


LBCU



What/where is Spyder?

[Skip426]

LBCU , Is a gauge and message center package on Freightliner chassis , but my info says it didn't start till 2007 . No idea what the acronym stands for.
2007 would be a Cat C-7 .

Hence my questions to confirm Freightliner chassis and year.

EDIT: Now I'm seeing 2004 in signature line , my speed reading needs a LOT of work.

[VanDiemen23]

engine cranks but no fire - it's not the transmission to ECU link.

Gotta be fuel. Oil pressure good? Lose that, and you'll not have pressure to actuate the fuel injectors.

PAC Brake disengaged (and verified that it is disengaged)? Mine goes thru a cycle at start up, could yours have stuck closed?

Any codes set?

[JNSNWT]

Beginning in the 2007 model year Freightliner switched from the MMDC warning and information display system previously made by Medallion Instrumentation Systems to a new Light Bar Control Unit (LBCU). This system is far more extensive than the previous MMDC system therefore it is more complex to operate. In response to a number of requests for information on how to operate the new LBCU we have uploaded a copy of the LBCU owners manual for you to view, download, or print as desired.

RV Tech Library - Freightliner LBCU Information Display

[connlonn]

My bad. I have the MMDC info center. In my panic I stated I have the newer unit. And also not the spyder system.
Panic mode.

Anyway it's a 2003/04 Phaeton, Cat 330 Freightliner Chassis. Will go to MOHO tomorrow morn. and try the above posted look-see's
Thanks

[Skip426]

More questions and possibilities .

Does your engine( fuel system ) have the Cat manual prime pump ?

Are you aware that some Freightliner chassis have a fuel system strainer , above the passenger side rear suspension air bag ? Diagram below .
The strainer is about the size of a pop can and some times hidden in the wiring harness. Picture below.
My chassis has fittings at this location and I believe a PO had the strainer removed.

[connlonn]

Thanks to all that responded.
Skip246-The 20A fuse is good, No manual primer, Will need to check for strainer.



Wolfe10- Water pump belt is a great idea and it kept me up most of the night wondering 'What If'. Maybe the water pump was NOT turning and the engine overheated, then shut down. After Thanksgiving I will tackle the belt situation.


VanDiemen23 - Pac Brake is still to be looked at. I'm sure it worked when I dis-engaged the cruise control from Hi-Idle.


And now: Today I noticed the odometer has all 8's displayed except for the 1st digit is a 1. Did that happened when I removed the 20A fuse or when the volt meter decided to stop registering.


Sorry about the rambling but I'm just throwing out the info. I have. Maybe it'll help you all think of more things to look at. Will probably have to get a mech. out with the proper Cat scan box.


Thanks again,
Lonnie

[Skip426]

I should have posted this pdf yesterday . Sorry

Other things to try described in the file.

[retfarmer]

Mine died at a red light in downtown Buffalo Ny. Rush hour. Heui failed. Towed to Peterbilt. Very expensive. Be sure you have the problem properly diagnosed before you leave home in it. I had to show them where the diagnostic plug in was. I should have had it towed somewhere else immediately.

[Dunrollin]

Originally Posted by connlonn

Thanks to all that responded.

And now: Today I noticed the odometer has all 8's displayed except for the 1st digit is a 1. Did that happened when I removed the 20A fuse or when the volt meter decided to stop registering.

Thanks again,
Lonnie

Lonnie, I experienced the exact same thing 2 days ago. I changed out my house batteries (date code 2004 LOL) and when I hooked them up the chassis batteries heated up. Rechecked wiring and all was fine but the chassis batteries were clearly bad (no date code but may have been original).

Got two new chassis batteries and carefully hooked them up. Crank but no start. Tried several times checking fuses and connections in between attempts. I noted the speedometer was the 1 and all 8s as you have and the odometer was just all 8s.

Went over to Caterpillar (they are only 1/2 mile from me) but they were all too tied up to do more than set up an appointment for next week. Went back and again went over all my work and found the problem- a thin wire (maybe 10 gauge) had fallen behind the chassis battery compartment and I had missed it. Hooked it up to the neg post on the chassis battery and the engine came to life. Speedometer is back to normal. I am guessing the wire was the ground for the ecm but I didn't trace it. I really expected the worst on this and am so pleased it was this simple. Anyway- hope you can figure problem out as well. Doug