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Old 08-25-2021, 09:44 AM   #15
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I have pictures of the heater hose fiasco and will do up a thread .

I do get lots of heat ... at WOT climbing a 8% grade . Freeway cruise at 1650 rpm , not so much .
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Old 08-25-2021, 02:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
I have pictures of the heater hose fiasco and will do up a thread .

I do get lots of heat ... at WOT climbing a 8% grade . Freeway cruise at 1650 rpm , not so much .
That's why I think the foam insulation will help. Obviously your coolant temp being hotter will make a difference, but my cars that have 180-190F thermostats have no problem keeping the interior warm. I think that the 40 feet of hose going from the engine to the front of the bus is where all of that heat is being lost. Going up an 8% grade you're going significantly slower than on the highway. Your water pump is also spinning faster, so there's that aspect.

I figure for how cheap the foam insulation is, it's worth a shot and can't hurt anything.
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Old 09-07-2021, 02:15 PM   #17
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After our 1600 mile trip, I definitely believe that the valve adjustment has made an improvement. My EGTs seem lower at max power and cruise, and mileage seems higher. I've also noticed that my boost at 75 MPH seems to be lower than it was before.

I did a couple of other things at the same time (adding FlowBelow hubcaps, the rear sway bar, and turbo/exhaust wrap) but I suspect that 90%+ of the improvement is from the valve lash. This was definitely worth doing and checking out if you haven't on your engine.
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Old 09-07-2021, 05:46 PM   #18
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After our 1600 mile trip, I definitely believe that the valve adjustment has made an improvement. My EGTs seem lower at max power and cruise, and mileage seems higher. I've also noticed that my boost at 75 MPH seems to be lower than it was before.

I did a couple of other things at the same time (adding FlowBelow hubcaps, the rear sway bar, and turbo/exhaust wrap) but I suspect that 90%+ of the improvement is from the valve lash. This was definitely worth doing and checking out if you haven't on your engine.
Can you post some pics of the turbo exhaust wrap?
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Old 09-07-2021, 08:36 PM   #19
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Can you post some pics of the turbo exhaust wrap?
This is the only picture I was able to find on my phone, which shows the turbo itself and the start of the exhaust wrap. For my 3126B, I did some internet searching and it looked like a wrap for a T3 turbo would be about right. This worked pretty well. Not sure if a T4 would've been better as I didn't compare. It doesn't fit perfectly, but it fits well enough and definitely covers and insulates a lot of heat.

For the exhaust wrap, I did 2" wide exhaust wrap. For the exhaust wrap I bought a 2" x 100' (2x 50' rolls) made by ASTR off Amazon, and the turbo blanket was a ConPus turbo blanket. All in all I have about $50 in the upgrade, and the exhaust is quieter and it seems to do something for making temps cooler.

I would suggest a respirator and long sleeves/pants when working with the stuff. It's nasty and makes you want to claw your skin off, but that's true for all exhaust wrap.

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Old 09-14-2021, 04:30 PM   #20
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Thanks for posting your pic of the exhaust wrap. Is the idea to just lower them temp in the engine compartment and the CAC unit to improve cold air flow thus HP into the motor? Is there any concern that the turbo will be running a bit hotter as a result?
Just want to understand the strategy.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:12 PM   #21
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Thanks for posting your pic of the exhaust wrap. Is the idea to just lower them temp in the engine compartment and the CAC unit to improve cold air flow thus HP into the motor? Is there any concern that the turbo will be running a bit hotter as a result?
Just want to understand the strategy.
The primary part to the theory is lowering the heating of air as it passes the exhaust and turbo to improve CAC/radiator effectiveness. It's less about improving HP to the motor in terms of more total power, but more improving the efficiency - a cooler charge means lower boost is required for the same airflow and horsepower. This therefore reduces EGTs by reducing how much the wastegate has to close to make the turbo produce enough boost.

Some of this ends up being cyclical. The harder the turbo is working, the higher the EGTs, which heat the turbo and open the clearances making it less efficient, which makes it have to work harder and thus wastegate closed more -> higher EGTs.

The exhaust side of the turbo may be running a bit hotter as a result, but not significantly. Most of the turbo cooling is done via oil or just the general airflow anyway, and they're designed to work hot. If anything, the exhaust side being shielded may help keep the compressor side cooler and more efficient. That said, I'm really just going based on casual observations and nothing very scientific.

My observations did seem to indicate the theory worked. I was seeing cruise EGTs often in the 1050F range, lower than I'd seen before. If I had some slight grade that involved a long pull, it seemed like the EGTs would go up some (say 1150F) and it would take a while of cooling off before the cruise range would come back down to 1050F again. Obviously I'm not taking measured engineering data, but for how cheap of an experiment it is, it seems to be doing something like what I was going for on the whole. We'll see how it continues to work as I do some more upgrades.
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