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Old 10-10-2017, 08:05 AM   #1
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No heat!

I have no dash heat. This morning I started the engine and ran for 20 minutes. Then, felt the lower radiator hose. Dead cold! No pressure easy squeezey. Dash Heater can't warm if the coolant is not hot.
Thanks
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:08 AM   #2
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Sounds like a bad thermostat in the engine or possibly low coolant level.
You can run the furnace while driving w/o any problem.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:20 AM   #3
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Thanks
I just drove 1200 miles. Surely I have plenty of coolant. While under the engine, I saw the fan turning slowly.
It seems to me that even if the t stat is stuck open, the hose would at least warm. I guess that means the engine never got warm enough to open the t stat. Running all day yesterday, the face only 2/3 up to the normal mark. Last week we drove on really hot weather and it never over heated.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:19 AM   #4
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I checked and the coolant level is at minimum so I will put a Gallon in this afternoon.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:45 AM   #5
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It sounds like you are not getting any water to the heater hose coming off of the engine. Have you ever had heat before? If not, look at the engine for an inline shut off valve. Some have them and some do not. It is to shut off the water going to the heater in case the hose should bust. It will allow you to continue driving without draining all of the coolant. If there is one, there is more than likely two, next to the engine. The hose is the same size as the one running to the heater box up front. On my Cummins, they are about mid way up on the engine on the same side as the thermostat. One is at the front of the engine and the other is aft, both on the same side.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:50 PM   #6
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You're right about the shutoff valves and I found them. Two of them both were open. I put a gallon of antifreeze to bring the tank up from minimum to max. Is the only radiator blow off cap the one on top of the over flow tank?
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:56 PM   #7
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I missed a question. I have never had heat. I have owned the MH for one month. Until yesterday I had no need for heat. We cane from 92 in Arkansas to 32 here at Thunder Bay Ontario. Now we need heat. The coach heat works fine but I'm confounded about the lack of heat this engine dissipates.
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:41 PM   #8
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The only radiator cap that I know of is the one on the overflow/holding tank.
Just a thought and it might not lead anywhere, but check the entire length of the heater hose from the engine to the heat exchanger box at the front end and see of there is another shut off valve. Mine had one installed in the front very near the heater control valve. So, mine has three. Have you found the heater control valve in the front end? If not look for it and it should have two heater hoses attached one input and one output. If you find that, disconnect the end of the hose going into the valve (the valve is sort of heart shaped with a hose on each side and a multi pin connector). See if you have water on the input side. If you do, then look at the valve and determine if the valve is installed correctly. There will likely be an arrow showing the flow direction of the water. There were some models that had the valve installed upside down and the input was going into the outlet side. It messed up the valve controller. Check that stuff and get back online and I will recheck and see how you are doing.
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:52 PM   #9
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You hit it. Just read your txt after having accomplished your recommendation. The electric valve is not working. I checked the fuse. It was good. I think there might be a relay also. The valve connector had many wires. Not just off and on. I am tracing it back up line to the controller on the dash. I did not check the output at the controller because of the multiple wires. Ignorance
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:15 PM   #10
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Good hunting. Now, take the controller valve off of the MH. Put clamps on the hoses, both of them, to trap the coolant. Unscrew the heater control valve and take the back smaller module off. I think it might have three screws holding it on. Inside that module is a plastic valve that rotates open/closed. Highly likely that it is covered with crud from infrequent usage. This module just separates from the printed circuit/brains of the whole unit (the larger part). Anyway, when you get this module off, use some white vinegar to soften the buildup and allow you to clean the stuff off of that valve. Once clean, use some lubricant like lithium grease. I think any lubricant with some body to it will work. Once the valve is moving freely, reinstall it on to the control portion of the valve and hook the hoses back up. Then lets see if there is heat. I'll bet there will be.

The new controllers are $350+/- and you have to wait for it to arrive. They might be available from a local source, but I have not been able to locate them. I think they are an Eaton part. And, a new controller has two options for connecting the wires. A pigtail is required to make the new pin arrangement. If you go that route, just get the short pigtail. The long one requires that you route it to the instrument panel. The short one just plugs into the existing wires. Same function for both.

But, I think you are going to be up and running by cleaning that valve.
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:26 PM   #11
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wow thanks. My next step is too remove the valve and replace it with a mechanical valve. I didn't measure the hoses. (Got dark). If I can't find a valve, I will put a straight piece of 1/2 pipe in it to get some heat. BUT, your suggestion that the module is penetrable encouraged success in the morning!
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:29 PM   #12
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Good luck and keep updating.
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:38 PM   #13
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Keep in mind that if you take the heater controller valve out of the system, you will get very hot air. There would be no way to modulate the heat coming into the cabin. When you have time and daylight, go through the clean up of the valve and you should be in good shape.

With that valve working correctly, the dash hot/cold rheostat will let you modulate the inside temps as you need. It usually takes a few minutes to get the air to change to what you have selected.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:17 AM   #14
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Got y the valve off. No screws. Can't open up
I'm going to plug it in and turn the key to see if there is action. It's a screw actuated gate valve. If I can find a brass valve with two short nipples, I can at least substitute it as a stop gap to obtain heat.
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