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Old 04-17-2022, 02:48 PM   #1
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Arrow Overheating Issue

We have a Class A with a CAT 330, we drive it for a few hours and it gets hot but the water level doesn’t change. We put in a brand new thermostat but still having same issue. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance…
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:50 PM   #2
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When was the last time the front of the CAC was cleaned?


Water pump belt tension good?
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Old 04-17-2022, 02:59 PM   #3
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All the info on your coach required to give good ideas .

Rear rad ? side rad ? Chassis manufacturer of your 2007 coach ?

Many posts on Spartan chassis, having side rad cooling fan control issues; that causes overheating.

Annual external cleaning of the rad and CAC are required for good cooling system performance.
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Old 04-17-2022, 07:47 PM   #4
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What is the CAC?
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Old 04-17-2022, 08:10 PM   #5
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Charge Air Cooler
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Old 04-17-2022, 08:13 PM   #6
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What do you consider hot? Are you lugging the engine?
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:23 PM   #7
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215-225 and Check Engine Flashing
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:55 PM   #8
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This thread should cover everything, about overheating issues , if your coach has a rear radiator .
Input from a number of members and photos of just how badly the rad and CAC can be plugged up .

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f124/c7-r...ce-387387.html
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Old 04-18-2022, 06:33 AM   #9
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I would willing to bet that if you have rear radiator that it is pugged with debris between the CAC and radiator. It's kind of a poor setup and very difficult to clean. I cleaned mine with the Simple green product, but when my CAC failed we had to pull the radiator out and even after cleaning I was amazed how dirty the radiator was. With the dirty radiator the temps would climb when climbing a steep mountain. I put in a new radiator and CAC and now the temp stays stable even on the long hard pull.
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Old 04-18-2022, 02:20 PM   #10
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OP,

Yes, 225 is high temp; average temps you should be seeing are around 185-205, depending on ambient temps, climbing hills, or load being pulled. With my C7, I see around 187-193 flat land and maybe 205 on steep/really long grades. Just for comparison sake.

Given you have a 2007 Discovery listed in your stats, I'm going to presume you are on a Freightliner chassis. If that is the case, that link Skip provided is a good source of info, specially relating to what debris can get sucked up into the radiator/CAC area. Leaves and trash are often found in the space between those components. Unfortunately soap and water is not going to remove that material.

Other guys mentioned washing the radiator/CAC and this is true as well. This may be an easier/less costly first attempt at decreasing your temps, if a blockage is what is your issue. However, this may prove quite challenging as just washing from the rear of the coach is not enough. The CAC should be cleaned from the engine side where the fan is...there is your challenge for sure. I use the purple simple green for this cleaning, not the normal green version.

Now something not mentioned so far and is another consistent reason for plugged fins of the CAC/Radiator; oil mist from your crank case breather tube, often referred to as a "slobber tube".
A common reason why excessive oil mist may be occuring is due to an overfill of the crankcase engine oil. Back then, the information widely used was that the C7 motor took 22 qts of oil, later, that number was reduced to 19 qts. If a dealer/shop is doing the oil changes, it is very reasonable to think that they may have added too much oil.

So besides reducing the amount of oil in the crancase to 19 qts, another practice is to add an extension to the slobber tube to either exit the side of the coach (passenger side) or to exit under/past the radiator to the rear of the coach. If you add this extension, which is highly recommended, make sure there are no valleys/dips for oil/water to accumulate in, this extention need to run downhill the entire way to ensure breather ability.

Here is another thread regarding slobber tube extensions:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f124/slo...ons-75260.html

One last thing I can add is a driving tip, specially for hill climbs. When climbing a hill, a lot of guys recommend not lugging the motor by manually lowering your transmission gear selection. The goal in this scenario is to maintain engine speed around 2,000 rpms or so. This will increase waterpump speed and coolant flow. This could be something to practice after you fix whatever is causing your current high temp situation.
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Old 04-18-2022, 02:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
This thread should cover everything, about overheating issues , if your coach has a rear radiator .
Input from a number of members and photos of just how badly the rad and CAC can be plugged up .

www.irv2.com/forums/f124/c7-radiator-cac-removal-and-deep-maintenance-387387.html

Yes, a good tutorial to start one's knowledge of rear radiator diesel pushers.
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Old 04-18-2022, 02:59 PM   #12
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Brett touched on water pump belt tension but didn't really go into detail. The temp problem could be a simple as that. It is a short belt and may look snug but a simple test is to try and turn the tensioner pulley by hand. If it can be made to slip at all on the belt it is too loose.
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Old 04-18-2022, 07:33 PM   #13
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If you clean and use Simple Green, use Simple Green Extreme because it does not corroded aluminum using a 13 water to 1 Extreme. I had the same problem and it took 5 hours of cleaning before water running out was clear.

If you send a personal message to me, I will respond with the procedure. It is lengthy to retype.
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Old 09-01-2022, 01:45 PM   #14
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Make sure you clean the FAN BLADES.
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