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Old 10-24-2022, 07:23 PM   #29
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OBTW, when I drained it, I measured 13 quarts from the 4" pan and filter.
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Old 10-25-2022, 02:58 PM   #30
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Yours looks like it has a different harness than mine. Has yours got the g solenoid?
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Old 10-25-2022, 03:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog View Post
OBTW, when I drained it, I measured 13 quarts from the 4" pan and filter.
Thats what i had to put in mine, when i filled it back up.

If you have not got one, go to walmart or parts store and get the hand pump with two lines. i slide the suction side in a 12 inch long piece of 1/2 " plastic water pipe and it will suck all the oil out of jug, and the other end will fit in the dip stick tube, a lot easier to fill.
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Old 10-26-2022, 06:30 PM   #32
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YAHOO!!!!!

Success!
Blaster is my hero for giving me helpful hints and encouragement to go forward.

Now the rest of the story.
Lifted rig in my yard with the coach lifts. (probably could do it without lifting the RV, but I'm 73 and there is a lot of sliding in and out from under it.)
Caught the fluid in a new 5 gallon bucket. It had less than 1,900 miles on it.
Poured fluid through a filter into another clean bucket.
Removed pan. Put trany in "N".
1st attempt: Because the codes i spent $200 to have read were all over the place I decided to just change the internal harness first. So I put in a new "official" Allison harness ($127 w/ freight). While in there changed both filters, So getting out of 4 Star Freightliner, (Midway FL)was about $190. OBTW, their service was 5 stars!
Put the fluid back in with Blaster's recommended hand pump.
After about 2 hours I drove 300 yards and all the codes popped and it went into limp mode.
Back into the yard...
2nd attempt: Tore back into it and this time changed out the whole valve body with a remanufactured one from Street Smart Transmission in Clearwater FL. Great service. Got it in 2 days. I used them because they actually asked for my serial number to determine the right part. Also lots of great reviews.
2 hours later I was driving on the super slab 70 mph! No codes!
The reman valve body came with all the soleniods, etc. To the door $325.

So in the world of inflation, did it for ~$525. Not counting the outrageous $200 fifteen minute code reading. So... $725. Would have been $950 if I put in new SYNtran 366.

Tools needed: 8, 13, and 15 mm sockets. Small screwdriver. Needle Nose plyers. 5 gallon bucket. Hand siphon pump. Oil filter wrench. Auto transmission funnel. Hammer handle to tap valve body on alignment pins. Rags, rags, more rags.

OH yeah.... Youtube videos. Watch them. Take notes.

ps: If I was brave, I could have just changed out the solenoids instead of the whole valve body. Decided against that because there is a small filter inside the valve body that you can't get to unless you open the valve body.

pss: If a moderator reads this... maybe it should be a "sticky" because there are a lot of 20 year old Allison 1000s out there. Just saying.
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Old 10-26-2022, 07:35 PM   #33
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Thanks for the update, glad to hear it all worked out well!!!
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Old 10-27-2022, 10:50 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Frog View Post
YAHOO!!!!!

Success!
Blaster is my hero for giving me helpful hints and encouragement to go forward.

Now the rest of the story.
Lifted rig in my yard with the coach lifts. (probably could do it without lifting the RV, but I'm 73 and there is a lot of sliding in and out from under it.)
Caught the fluid in a new 5 gallon bucket. It had less than 1,900 miles on it.
Poured fluid through a filter into another clean bucket.
Removed pan. Put trany in "N".
1st attempt: Because the codes i spent $200 to have read were all over the place I decided to just change the internal harness first. So I put in a new "official" Allison harness ($127 w/ freight). While in there changed both filters, So getting out of 4 Star Freightliner, (Midway FL)was about $190. OBTW, their service was 5 stars!
Put the fluid back in with Blaster's recommended hand pump.
After about 2 hours I drove 300 yards and all the codes popped and it went into limp mode.
Back into the yard...
2nd attempt: Tore back into it and this time changed out the whole valve body with a remanufactured one from Street Smart Transmission in Clearwater FL. Great service. Got it in 2 days. I used them because they actually asked for my serial number to determine the right part. Also lots of great reviews.
2 hours later I was driving on the super slab 70 mph! No codes!
The reman valve body came with all the soleniods, etc. To the door $325.

So in the world of inflation, did it for ~$525. Not counting the outrageous $200 fifteen minute code reading. So... $725. Would have been $950 if I put in new SYNtran 366.

Tools needed: 8, 13, and 15 mm sockets. Small screwdriver. Needle Nose plyers. 5 gallon bucket. Hand siphon pump. Oil filter wrench. Auto transmission funnel. Hammer handle to tap valve body on alignment pins. Rags, rags, more rags.

OH yeah.... Youtube videos. Watch them. Take notes.

ps: If I was brave, I could have just changed out the solenoids instead of the whole valve body. Decided against that because there is a small filter inside the valve body that you can't get to unless you open the valve body.

pss: If a moderator reads this... maybe it should be a "sticky" because there are a lot of 20 year old Allison 1000s out there. Just saying.
Sounds great, hope all is well now.
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