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Old 12-31-2020, 05:04 PM   #1
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Help my coach batteries appear to be dead.

Went to check our coach and found none of the lights work. The steps won't go in and the rear stabilizers won't go up. The engine starts but can't seem to get any voltage for the coach batteries. My inverter says fault dead battery 3 volts. Any suggestions appreciated. Oh yes the coach was bought new in May 2019.
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Old 12-31-2020, 05:08 PM   #2
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Was it plugged into shore power?

If not...Do you turn off your inverter when you leave the coach for several weeks?
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Old 12-31-2020, 05:11 PM   #3
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It was not plugged in however we do have a solar panel on the roof to keep batteries up. Also the inverter is showing off right now.
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Old 12-31-2020, 05:42 PM   #4
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Is there a switch you can turn to physically turn off the inverter when you leave?

If you leave the inverter turned on when you are not plugged into shore power it will run your batteries clear down.

The solar panel may, or may not, keep the batteries charged.
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Old 01-01-2021, 10:58 AM   #5
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Here is what we found. All the coach batteries were down to 2.9 v. After a 2 hr charge they were up to 12 v. Everything is working fine again. Thanks to those who replied.
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:45 PM   #6
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I would not depend on solar panels keeping batteries charged while parked, without use, for an extended time. Doing so requires you to leave the power on so there is a constant draw, even if the inverter and the "salesman's switch" are turned off.

I have had good luck with a definitive cutoff switch installed on the positive line from the coach batteries. Some suggest using the negative line instead but I have zero issue with the positive line.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickie View Post
Here is what we found. All the coach batteries were down to 2.9 v. After a 2 hr charge they were up to 12 v. Everything is working fine again. Thanks to those who replied.
12V is nowhere near a full charge... especially if measure while charging or shortly after disconnecting charger. A full charge will likely take 12 hrs +/- and should read about 12.6V after batteries sit idle w/o charge or discharge.
The solar charger may be complicating / confusing the measurements and judgment re state of charge.
If the inverter shows a fault it was likely on and shut itself off when battys got too low. I am guessing some but believe you would not get a fault if the inverter is/was off when battys drawn down.
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Old 04-22-2021, 03:56 PM   #8
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I have had good luck with a definitive cutoff switch installed on the positive line from the coach batteries. Some suggest using the negative line instead but I have zero issue with the positive line.
The Blue Sea Systems switches specifically say to install them so as to interrupt the positive side. On a vehicle with a metal chassis, interrupting the negative side might not have the desired effect since things are probably grounded to the chassis at several points.



And I agree, for long term storage, as well as for working on the electrical system in any way, a full disconnect switch like you describe is the way to go.
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Old 04-23-2021, 05:17 AM   #9
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The Blue Sea Systems switches specifically say to install them so as to interrupt the positive side. On a vehicle with a metal chassis, interrupting the negative side might not have the desired effect since things are probably grounded to the chassis at several points.



And I agree, for long term storage, as well as for working on the electrical system in any way, a full disconnect switch like you describe is the way to go.
Doesn't matter how many pieces of equipment or systems use chassis as ground... if the Neg batty cable(s) (may be one or more) are interrupted the circuit is interrupted..
Some inverters and or engine computers specify which lead should be disconnected first. Best to do your homework before adding a disconnect based on a forum response from someone else.
Even where a disconnect sw exists it can have a bypass line to those items that are desirable to stay powered. Some may specify if broken the opposite lead should be first.

An example... my Cummins / FreightLiner has a Sw on the chassis batty POS but they have stated if disconnecting batty to disconnect Neg first. So not a good idea to just add the bypass to the switch...
Magnum inverter recommends disconnecting Pos first to avoid risk of damage.
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:19 AM   #10
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I've seen plenty of examples of vehicle circuits with a negative disconnect switch behaving strangely because a path to ground was found intermittently despite the switch. If you disconnect the positive side, all circuits have low voltage potential. If you disconnect negative, all circuits have high potential and are just waiting for some path to ground to appear. Just a month or two ago there was a guy on this forum whose new toad shifted to park while being towed because he'd installed the disconnect switch on the vehicle's negative battery lead. Changed the switch to the positive post and it stayed in neutral. Didn't fry his car's computer, even though if he looked I bet his car's manual says to disconnect the negative first.

By all means check the manuals but I doubt that all equipment in your vehicle is going to align on which side to disconnect if they even specify at all. What then? Two or three separate disconnect switches for the various components? Indeed, do your homework and don't rely on what someone on the forum tells you.
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Old 04-23-2021, 03:43 PM   #11
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Rumline... what you outlined is exactly why Magnum recommends Pos first.
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