'02 P32 WH Brakes getting hot-

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by az bound

The P32 has a bellcrank on the brake linkage which requires lubing. There is none on the W22. There is a kit available for installing a zerk fitting if there is none on the bellcrank.

I wasn't sure of your Ref, so I found this- RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: brake problem which gave me an idea of what and where to look. Mine doesn't match the description but I still found it on mine and everything is free to movement. This "bellcrank" junction is viewed by looking straight up about a foot or so back from the left front frame rail.
TNX, Gary

[az bound]

The reference I gave does not seem to work. go to www.oemys-performance.com
and look under tech tips. The belcrank is located in the engine compartment,drivers side.

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by tomwalt

I had these exact indications on my 1999, 16,500lb P32 chassis - I bled the brakes and fluid looked OK. It was the calipers sticking.
My indications were, after braking in mountains (or city), the rotor temps measured with IR thermometer were BL - 400 degrees, FR 300 degrees and the other tow less than 200 degrees. Last year the BL and FR were 250 to 300 degrees, so it got progressively worse. The brakes also squealed when hot and braking while turning corners - they did not squeal when cool.
Also noted, my brake pedal travel was less than 3 inches (a P32 WH with 4 disc brakes should be 6 inches travel). Brakes worked great - too good to be true.
After disassembly to lube calipers, found the hot brake pads had crystalized. I replaced all 4 calipers/pads and rotors. I might have gotten away with pads and lubing the caliper pins/pistons, but I plan to keep this so replaced everything for under $2,000 ($1200 parts and 700 labor). I could have done this myself, but the rear brakes would have been a real pain.
Let me know if you want more info. OMEY has P/N info for NAPA, I have it for CARQUEST. Brakes are Bendix 4152828, P/N is stamped near bleed screws.

Interesting.....This first happened about 2years ago on the LR (left rear). I was able to make it to my destination and get a ride to a Workhorse dealer who had both rear calipers and pads. So- out in the field, I did a LR caliper and pad change and figured it was a fluke- but had the RR (right rear) in stock- just in case. Last year I made the same trip and had no symptoms. I just got back this year and had the heat and smoke on the way in- so I did the caliper and pads- once again, in a field. On the way out, I had the problem with first the new side- hot smoke and then the side I did 2 years back. This trip is only 160 miles, about 110 on the flat and 50 on the hilly part that seems to cause the problem to show. BTW, only 17,000 miles on this unit and, while I don't want to get this thread off track, it's been full of problems that I have had to solve- this is another. Those numbers may help Tom as locally there isn't much. The Workhorse parts are called "uptime parts".
TNX, Gary

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by az bound

The reference I gave does not seem to work. go to www.oemys-performance.com
and look under tech tips. The belcrank is located in the engine compartment,drivers side.

That's better. I'll have to look again to see how those pictures relate to mine. The fan shroud fix looks important
TNX, Gary

[az bound]

I would also suggest a complete brake fluid change. Workhorse recommends doing so at least every three years no matter what the mileage.

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by az bound

I would also suggest a complete brake fluid change. Workhorse recommends doing so at least every three years no matter what the mileage.

I did the fluid change this spring- a bit murky but not bad. I have certainly seen much worse fluid doing fine as far as brake operation. So, the problem had occurred on both sides of a fluid change.
TNX

[tomwalt]

Originally Posted by Sightseer 27

Interesting.....This first happened about 2years ago on the LR (left rear). I was able to make it to my destination and get a ride to a Workhorse dealer who had both rear calipers and pads. So- out in the field, I did a LR caliper and pad change and figured it was a fluke- but had the RR (right rear) in stock- just in case. Last year I made the same trip and had no symptoms. I just got back this year and had the heat and smoke on the way in- so I did the caliper and pads- once again, in a field. On the way out, I had the problem with first the new side- hot smoke and then the side I did 2 years back. This trip is only 160 miles, about 110 on the flat and 50 on the hilly part that seems to cause the problem to show. BTW, only 17,000 miles on this unit and, while I don't want to get this thread off track, it's been full of problems that I have had to solve- this is another. Those numbers may help Tom as locally there isn't much. The Workhorse parts are called "uptime parts".
TNX, Gary

Brake P/Ns for my 16,500 lb P32:
1) Caliper - CAR18-8044 at $115 each
2) Brake Pad Set - CARGMD184F at $171 for a set of 2 each (so you need 2 - a front and back set)
3) Front Brake Rotor - CAR55029 at $98.50 each
4) Back Brake Rotor - CAR55031 at $81.50 each

Note: I did the online parts searches (AutoWarehouse etc) and just got confused. My 16,500 lb chassis uses the 'tow/wrecker truck brakes' - online parts only listed 15,000 lb non-tow truck brake parts. CARQUEST was great at figuring this out for me.

Link to OEMY's NAPA P/Ns:
http://www.oemys-performance.com/whpartspxx.htm

Off topic - Sometime when you get a chance, would you send me a PM on where you place the jack and jack stand on the rear? I would guess a bottle jack on the axle would do, but I don't know for sure. My rule of thumb is if it needs jacked up - have the shop do it - but there have been times I just want to DIY.

[Sightseer 27]

Thanks Tom, I'll have to see how those cross to my 14,800 GVW chassis.
PM sent.
Gary

[az bound]

Originally Posted by Sightseer 27

I did the fluid change this spring- a bit murky but not bad. I have certainly seen much worse fluid doing fine as far as brake operation. So, the problem had occurred on both sides of a fluid change.
TNX

If it were a sticking caliper or any other mechanical issue it would be happening all the time, even on flat ground. I re-read all your posts, and now believe that your braking method is causing the overheating.
Down shift before starting down steep grades and do not ride the brakes. Stab them for short intervals to keep the speed under control.

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by az bound

If it were a sticking caliper or any other mechanical issue it would be happening all the time, even on flat ground. I re-read all your posts, and now believe that your braking method is causing the overheating.
Down shift before starting down steep grades and do not ride the brakes. Stab them for short intervals to keep the speed under control.

Actually there is no riding of the brakes and as for downshifting, no doubt this will help. I don't expect to have to downshift on a rig this small and it would seem if it was necessary, there would be a sticker on the visor from WH alerting the driver that a downshift is necessary. I'm real easy on brakes as well as clutches- Have never worn either out. I have had, due to the salty environment in the N.East, brake pads become un-bonded and therefore needed replacment.
In talking with a friend of mine, he mentioned that GM (WH) runs the tolerances on the new pads (Meritor) too close and suggested an inspection and while the whole job went back together like a Swiss watch the other day, that may be part of the problem. He likes to see 1/8th inch of clearance even if the pad have to be ground to achieve that clearance.
So I'll stage the tools and digital caliper and try to get that done tomorrow and perhaps grind the pads so there is 1/8th.
Gary

[Tony in SC]

I'm not familiar with the brake system on a P32. Does it have a proportioning valve? Most work in the 70% front-30% rear range. Some vehicles's are built into the master cylinder, some are external. I haven't heard of many going bad, but some have a small shuttle valve in them that will stick. Don't know if this applies to a P32 or other MH chassis. Tony

[dieselclacker]

Quote: In talking with a friend of mine, he mentioned that GM (WH) runs the tolerances on the new pads (Meritor) too close and suggested an inspection and while the whole job went back together like a Swiss watch the other day, that may be part of the problem. He likes to see 1/8th inch of clearance even if the pad have to be ground to achieve that clearance.
So I'll stage the tools and digital caliper and try to get that done tomorrow and perhaps grind the pads so there is 1/8th.


You might want to re-think this. The pads stay in constant contact with the rotors, grinding away 1/8 inch will do nothing as far as increasing the clearance.

[iRV4FUN]

Originally Posted by Sightseer 27

Thanks Tom, I'll have to see how those cross to my 14,800 GVW chassis.
PM sent.
Gary

I'm curious! Can you verify that your P32 brakes are the Bendix 4152828? The P/N is stamped near bleed screws. Do you have the same P/N?

[Sightseer 27]

Originally Posted by iRV4FUN

I'm curious! Can you verify that your P32 brakes are the Bendix 4152828? The P/N is stamped near bleed screws. Do you have the same P/N?

Yes, that's the number on the original calipers (both). There is a different number on the box for each left and right on the replacements that are Workhorse-Uptime parts.
TNX.