Community Forums

TexasBounder · 05-06-2022, 12:06 PM

Hello All from Texas,
during my normal pre trip regiment I removed the Dog House (AARRRGGGHH) and changed the serpentine belt. also the Oil, filter. I also cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter . I am telling you this because it may helpful to determine my problem. I took the Coach to the shop to install a new front inner hub seal. While driving the MH home from the shop it seemed to be lacking power. Then when I attempted to accelerate to get on the HWY it just wanted to bogg down. I eventually got to 50 mph. My first thought was fuel starvation. Is it just coincidental that it happened right after I had it serviced or could I have messed up a connector or something somewhere around the top of the engine when I changed the serpentine ?? I found info here that the Fuel Rail PSI should be between 57 and 62. I could not get any reading through the main fuel port with the blue cap. Maybe a bad Schrader Valve so I took the reading from the Fuel Rail Port. Engine off , I turned the key to ON without starting engine and the gauge reads 60 psi for about 3 seconds until the pump stops then reads and holds 52 psi. When I start the engine the gauge reads 61 psi at idle. Not sure what it would be under a load. Any suggestions out there as to where I should look next ? Fuel Pump or Filter ? As always,, Thanks so much for your help. Bill

donr103 · 05-06-2022, 12:20 PM

So by now.. and you plan to keep rv.. you need a good obd2 scanner .. go get one.. if you were like me.. when I changed belt.. I had to lay on top of eng..
So most likely you knocked something off or cracked a weak vacuum hose or elbow.. the elbow on throttle body can split.. in place you cannot see it..
A good scanner will help you narrow down the cause.. ask around at parts store.. many tools they rent for free..
Good luck and keep us posted

Isaac-1 · 05-06-2022, 12:41 PM

I think 2004 was a changeover year where they switched from pressure regulator mounted at the engine, to a pressure regulator mounted near the fuel tank. Do you know if your coach is built on a 2003 or 2004 chassis, as the model year of motorhomes often does not match the model year of the underlying chassis due to supply chain stock.

HarryStone · 05-06-2022, 12:47 PM

How did you clean the MAF? What did you use?

Unplanned Tourist · 05-06-2022, 12:51 PM

MAF sensor is what I would check first also.

Skip426 · 05-06-2022, 12:56 PM

Fuel filter should be inside the drivers side frame rail behind the differential.

Here's a picture of the location on a bare frame .

TexasBounder · 05-06-2022, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarryStone

How did you clean the MAF? What did you use?

I used CFC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner. I cleaned it while it was still in the duct/plugged in. I later learned that that was the wrong way to do it so I unplugged it and removed the entire sensor and cleaned both sides with the cleaner. Do ya think I ruined the sensor by cleaning it while it was plugged in ?

TexasBounder · 05-06-2022, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donr103

So by now.. and you plan to keep rv.. you need a good obd2 scanner .. go get one.. if you were like me.. when I changed belt.. I had to lay on top of eng..
So most likely you knocked something off or cracked a weak vacuum hose or elbow.. the elbow on throttle body can split.. in place you cannot see it..
A good scanner will help you narrow down the cause.. ask around at parts store.. many tools they rent for free..
Good luck and keep us posted

Yes, I did lay on top of the engine to change the belt. I will start checking connections, hoses etc.. My little cheap scanner recognizes the 2004 Workhorse Chassis but when scanned for codes tells me ; No Powertrain DTC's or Freeze Frame Data is presently stored in the vehicle's computer. " ?

Thanks for your help ! Bill

TexasBounder · 05-06-2022, 03:18 PM

Well, Since my post this morning I installed a new fuel filter. The old "one piece 3 port" filters are no longer available so I installed the replacement kit P/N WHG481FK. It was an easy install. But,, It did not change any of the readings on my Fuel pressure gauge. So,, I can now cross that off my troubleshooting list. Thanks for all the great ideas and input. I will continue to try and find the culprit and let ya know what I find. Thanks again, Bill

donr103 · 05-06-2022, 09:42 PM

Keep looking for cracked hoses or check air cleaner housing for critters nest.. and all air cleaner hose clamps are tight.. re check maf and make sure it is in right and tight.. and re check connections..
Still think you knocked something off.. or cracked a hose.. fuel pressure sounds ok..

Full-Timers · 05-06-2022, 09:51 PM

You say while driving it home FROM the shop... How about TO the shop? Did the problem appear before the shop or after?

TexasBounder · 05-07-2022, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers

You say while driving it home FROM the shop... How about TO the shop? Did the problem appear before the shop or after?

It seemed to run fine to the shop but started acting up when I left the shop. The only thing they did was remove the front right wheel and hub to replace the inner hub seal. Although they did drive the RV into and out of the shop area. What could they have possibly done to cause it to start running bad ?

PJStough · 05-07-2022, 12:03 PM

Does the check engine light come on? If so, have the code checked. If not, then it is probably something mechanical, like a connection not tight, or not connected at all.

harris155 · 05-08-2022, 08:52 PM

Our W22 started surging and lack of power, plus and minus 200 RPM, no check engine alarm.
First thought it was transmission torque converter locking and unlocking.
Checked fuel rail, steady pressure.
Replaced plugs and high tension wires and surging stopped.