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Old 10-31-2021, 11:07 AM   #1
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2002 National Dolphin on Workhorse chassis won’t start

Hi, All. I just returned from a 2600-mile trip with a few minor issues. MotorHome was driven 3 days then parked almost a month during trip, never any starting issues. Four days driving back, and when I get back and park it at my brother’s overnight, suddenly it won’t start. All the lights and dings work, I can feel (what I believe to be) the relay clicking, but no effort to try to start. I haven’t yet found a diagram to show me exactly which component is the starter. Thing is, there were absolutely no signs of the starter going bad—whatever those signs are. It just surprisingly didn’t start when I turned the key. That said, the “jacks down” warning light/beep malfunctioned about 3 days earlier; the cruise control would not set beginning 2 days prior, and on the last 1-2 hours driving in, the brake pedal would not retract 100%, leaving the brake lights on unless I stuck my left foot under the pedal to push and hold it back into place. Obviously I am no mechanic, and I don’t know if the small things all are connected to it not starting. If anyone has suggestions or diagrams/images, I’d be very grateful. I really need to get this bad girl started!! Thanks so much.
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:15 AM   #2
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Workhorse produced both " P " and " W " series chassis and some of your issues would have different causes , depending on the series of chassis .

Can you use this decoder for your chassis serial number and add what series and GVWR your Workhorse chassis is .
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:23 AM   #3
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Sorry, it’s a “W.” GVWR = 22,000#. Thanks.
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:42 AM   #4
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There a multiple , components involved in starting the engine .
Ignition switch.
Neutral safety switch.
Starter relay
Starter .
Have you tried , moving the gear shift to neutral then trying to start the engine ?
Lifting the brake pedal , has disturbed the brake light switch adjustment , that's why the lights stay on. Cruise won't operate.
To re-set the switch, you have to access it under the dash , hold the brake pedal down and push the switch down, through it's mount . When you release the pedal , it will push the switch up to the proper position .
If it doesn't hold the switch and mount, are worn out , will have to be replaced .
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:53 AM   #5
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My responses follow *^*^*** below.

[QUOTE=Skip426;5969739]There a multiple , components involved in starting the engine .
Ignition switch.
Neutral safety switch.
Starter relay *^*^***I purchased replacement and about to replace.
Starter. *^*^***Trying to locate, to replace if necessary (but I am thinking, and hoping, it’s a minor electrical issue, a switch, etc.)
Have you tried , moving the gear shift to neutral then trying to start the engine ? *^*^***Yes, no luck.
Lifting the brake pedal , has disturbed the brake light switch adjustment , that's why the lights stay on. Cruise won't operate. *^*^***Aha! A bit of a relief.
To re-set the switch, you have to access it under the dash , hold the brake pedal down and push the switch down, through it's mount . When you release the pedal , it will push the switch up to the proper position. *^*^***Will give that a try.
If it doesn't hold the switch and mount, are worn out , will have to be replaced. *^*^***And then this, if it doesn’t hold. Thank you soooo much for your expertise. I’ll update after I’ve tried the above.
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Old 10-31-2021, 11:58 AM   #6
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I should have added battery to the list of items required to start the engine , the battery, it may have enough power to light up the dash but not enough to start the engine .
Try jump starting with cables to another vehicle .

B-in-L 's W-22 05 Tiffin would turn on the jack's down alarm after a fuel or lunch stop . Turned out that heat under the coach from the exhaust , would cause enough expansion to move the jacks off the sensor , setting off the alarm .
The fix from HWH , was to cycle the system ; turn on and hit store ; after a hot start up . The system will power down 2 mins after all the jack sensors say the jacks are up.
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Old 10-31-2021, 12:05 PM   #7
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If I were you.. use all safety precautions.. go to the starter and use simple test light. And see if there is.. voltage at starter big lug.. it should be hot all the time.. next simply pull off the small thin wire.. that goes to top of starter.. that is power from ignition key.. to tell starter to work.. it should not be hot.. then have someone try to start and see if you got voltage..
If seems to pass this.. then you can perform more extensive testing.. but it requires special tools and mechanical knowledge.. and the way you asked this question.. makes me think you dont... but no worries.. you can read..

So sence you can read.. go into any auto parts store and grab a book for Chevy 2002 pickup c2500 and c3500 .. it's a basic automotive repair book.. by Haynes..
You must not realize that chevy/gm/ navistar.. used the same light duty pickups truck eng and trans as in rv.. so you have a 2002 Chevy c2500 light duty pickups truck eng and trans bolted to big frame with house on it ..

This will give you great information on how to take starter out safely and have it tested.. it will tell you what tools you need for trouble shooting.. and give you eng and trans specs
It will make a good addition to the rv library..

As for the brakes.. are you aware that you must change the brake oil every 2yrs.. ? have you checked brake resovior ?
And how about auto park system... have you done maintenance on it. .?

As to cruise.. the book will give you trouble shooting guide... but members here post they have had problems with tilt steering wheel rubbing through wires in the column..
Just read basic electrical trouble shooting guide in the book.. the book will tell you what tools you need..
There are problems with ignition switch by itself... but first see if you are even getting power and ignition to starter.. the starter relay is built on it..
Good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 10-31-2021, 12:05 PM   #8
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Starter is beside the oil pan bolted to the transmission , there is a large cable from the battery and a small wire from the relay . You can jump power ( there will be spark ) from the battery cable to the wire connection from the relay .

If you're sure the battery is good , and the engine turns over , your problem is not the starter.

Your starter may not look like this but the connections will be similar , connect from the red arrow terminal to the yellow.
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Old 10-31-2021, 12:07 PM   #9
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(quote): To re-set the switch, you have to access it under the dash , hold the brake pedal down and push the switch down, through it's mount . When you release the pedal , it will push the switch up to the proper position. *^*^***It pushed the switch back out only a wee bit after a delay. It released the pedal in bits (mostly, then a bit, then another bit. The initial release stopped the “humming” noise it makes when the pedal is depressed. Now in to more elements…and will keep an eye on the switch. Thanks!!
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Old 10-31-2021, 12:16 PM   #10
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I believe your Allison 1000 series transmission uses a NSBU ( Neutral Safety Back Up) switch on the side of the transmission .

I cannot find the testing info , I had for the switch , but I'm sure if you Google you'll find it .
I'm about to leave for travel to my snowbird park , so I'll be off line for most of the next two weeks . Hope other members can provide all the info you need to get mobile.
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Old 10-31-2021, 12:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollie02 View Post
(quote):
The initial release stopped the “humming” noise it makes when the pedal is depressed. Now in to more elements…and will keep an eye on the switch. Thanks!!
The humming was probably , the ABS system ,electric pump recharging the system . If that pump was running over night , you could have a low chassis battery issue ... back to jump starting the coach .
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Old 10-31-2021, 03:19 PM   #12
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Regarding your brake light / pedal issue, there is a bell crank lever arm fitting in the brake pedal linkage that probably needs to be regreased, the early W series coaches did not put a grease fitting on this tube, Worhorse had a service bulletin on this with instructions to add a grease zerk fitting to the tube, so yours may or may not have a grease fitting depending on build date and if it had the retrofit. See this old thread on the topic https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/brak...ase-75540.html
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Old 10-31-2021, 05:20 PM   #13
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When you find the starter give a whack with a hammer and see if it works then. if so you will need a starter as the brushes or armature are bad or both.
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Old 03-08-2022, 02:21 PM   #14
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So…the starter relay switch was the issue before. Now, I’m stuck at a gas station 1000 miles from home, similar issue. Stopped. Got gas. Won’t start. I tried ur suggestion — putting it in neutral and starting it. I used the start booster and after a couple of tries, it started. It has been sitting at a Chevy dealership for a week, replaced the AC compressor y’day. So at least it’s running, but… can you possible send a diagram of the neutral safety switch? I disconnected and reconnected all the wires, fuses and relays down there that I could/felt comfortable doing. None of that helped. Starting it in neutral helped but I’m not confident it is running dependably. Thanks so much!!!
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