Community Forums

RTegarini · 12-26-2022, 05:10 PM

My 2005 Workhorse W20 8.1L motorhome won’t start. The engine battery was acting up a bit and replaced last September. Unfortunately, the MH has not been taken out since then but has been started and ran a few times with no issues. No substitute for actually driving, of course. Just before the holiday I went by and was going to run the engine and generator. The way I remember it, the engine made a feeble attempt to start, then went ‘dead’ with no further attempt at turning over. On a later visit, I took a battery reading of 13.4 and used a battery jumper box anyway. ‘Dead’. All dash lights come on, ignition seems to cycle, various clicks under the hood but when I turn the key… nothing. Verified ground to chassis by inspection along with all the fuses under hood. Pulled and re-inserted relays but don’t really know how to check them.

Not much in the way of mechanical skills but am looking for ideas on things I can check. I’m sure there are a zillion separate items that are part of the start-up process and don’t know where to start.

Recap: it made a feeble attempt to start, then went completely dead on turning over, engine is not cranking, battery at proper voltage, all dash lights come on, under hood fuses checked.

Thanks in advanced for any help in diagnosing. -RT

edgray · 12-26-2022, 07:20 PM

Most coaches have a battery boost switch on the dash that connects the Coach batteries to the cranking battery. You have to hold the switch in and give it a chance to “ connect”, then you should be able to start the motor. If the alternator can’t recharge the cranking batter, it may be defective. Only a load test can confirm that since you say the voltage appears correct

RTegarini · 12-27-2022, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edgray

Most coaches have a battery boost switch on the dash that connects the Coach batteries to the cranking battery.

On my chassis, that switch is labeled ‘MOM’ and though I did try it, it did nothing. Not sure that I even remember it ‘clicking’ or offering any hope. The coach batteries are both at about 13.65v, if I remember correctly, where it would draw the power from. The generator will fire up with no issues and thought it started of the coach batteries. Since I’m no mechanical wiz, I would need a better understanding why the MOM might help out when the engine / chassis battery seems to be okay.

Thank you. -RT

RealNiceTent · 12-27-2022, 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RTegarini

On my chassis, that switch is labeled ‘MOM’ and though I did try it, it did nothing. Not sure that I even remember it ‘clicking’ or offering any hope. The coach batteries are both at about 13.65v, if I remember correctly, where it would draw the power from. The generator will fire up with no issues and thought it started of the coach batteries. Since I’m no mechanical wiz, I would need a better understanding why the MOM might help out when the engine / chassis battery seems to be okay.

Thank you. -RT

Check the cable from the starter on the coach engine to the battery, you probably have a corroded connection. Under the load of the engine starter the corroded connection becomes an open circuit. The generator starter uses a separate cable run and draws about a 1/4 of the load of the engine starter. GM style side terminal cables are notorious for corroding under the lead spacer between the connectors and the corrosion travels down the copper wire reducing the load carrying ability to the point the corroded cable burns itself in two.

RTegarini · 12-27-2022, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RealNiceTent

Check the cable from the starter on the coach engine to the battery, you probably have a corroded connection

Thank you for the suggestion. It’s raining here so probably not going back over to the storage for a few days. My father-in-law has a Ford chassis motorhome and suggested I might try shorting out the power on the starter to the chassis or pull the starter and have it tested. Now that I’m re-reading your post, sounds like the same area to check out! No experience with any of this but need to give it a try. Down side? I have vertigo. Ugh.

Thanks again. -RT

delornut · 12-28-2022, 10:43 AM

I had a 2008 W22 Workhorse. It always started when I picked it up at the storage facility and brought it home.We always headed south around New Years and it was always cold here over night. The next morning when were were to leave it would do exactly what yours does. Click, nothing else. Batteries good etc; After several clicking sessions it would start and work fine until the next January. I looked at all you have mentioned and couldn't find an issue but our local mechanical shop finally replaced the ignition switch and all was good after that.

Recap: it made a feeble attempt to start, then went completely dead on turning over, engine is not cranking, battery at proper voltage, all dash lights come on, under hood fuses checked.

Thanks in advanced for any help in diagnosing. -RT[/QUOTE]

RTegarini · 12-29-2022, 06:45 PM

Also interested in any thoughts if the starter should be replaced and if so, a Workhorse OEM only, or a recommended aftermarket. -RT

JoeSR · 12-30-2022, 10:38 AM

You are a few steps away from replacing your starter.

Removing connector corrosion and looseness from the list of possibilities is a good first step.

Two links that you may find useful….

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc...on-car-tests-1

Youtube is your friend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXKqhFENnQc&t=12s

jeepfreak · 12-30-2022, 10:50 AM

Try shifting the shifter to neutral. Had that same issue on 2007 w20

RTegarini · 01-06-2023, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepfreak

Try shifting the shifter to neutral. Had that same issue on 2007 w20

Tried that but didn’t solve my issue.
Thanks for the thought though. -RT

RTegarini · 01-06-2023, 12:11 AM

We’ve had a lot of rain lately so not much time for further diagnoses. I did do what I call a poor man’s battery load test. Maybe someone could tell me if it actually means anything.

The chassis / engine battery read 13.6v at rest. When trying to turn engine over (crank) the reading on the meter went to 15.5v to 16.0v. I did do it twice to make sure it wasn’t my imagination and got the same readings. In all cases, the engine / starter didn’t flinch.

The battery ground on the frame near the coach batteries checks out.
Any further suggestions or next steps would be appreciated.
Electrical issues usually have a lot more responses on the forums here so I’m not sure if my issue should have been posted in the Winnebago / Itasca forums instead.

Thank you. -RT

Mark_K5LXP · 01-06-2023, 07:43 AM

When you see voltage jump up like that when it should be unchanging or going down, it usually implies something is pulsing or switching on and off and the meter erroneously displays either an integrated or peak/transient voltage. This doesn't tell you what the problem is but it does tell you you're not connecting the battery to the starter but something is switching on and off. My take on it would be to follow the current path from the battery to across the starter solenoid then to the starter itself. The interruption could be in that path or in the ignition control circuit that powers the solenoid. You have to start somewhere, so pick a spot and work your way around. Things that are "broken" are easier to find than "intermittent" so no doubt you'll zero in on it in short order. I had a similar intermittent problem with my truck years ago and it turned out to be a cube relay with a bad internal solder connection in the under hood fuse/relay box. A new $12 relay cured it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

yeloduster · 01-06-2023, 07:58 AM

TIME OUT! Step back and take a deep breath. There should be NO way to measure 15V-16V on the battery! Just because there shouldn't be a way doesn't mean you didn't measure it.

There are a couple things that can cause a high voltage reading:

You inadvertently read something that wasn't there! It happens to the best of us!
If you are plugged into shore power or have a trickle charger. The converter or trickle charger might be defective and over charging the battery.
The batteries have been miss wired in series so they provide 18V-24V!

You MUST determine why you are measuring 15V-16V. 15V-16V is wrong! You can't fix anything until you understand why you are measuring voltage that high.

By the way, be sure to disconnect your MH from shore power and remove any trickle chargers while troubleshooting.

RTegarini · 01-07-2023, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP

When you see voltage jump up like that when it should be unchanging or going down, it usually implies something is pulsing or switching on and off and the meter erroneously displays either an integrated or peak/transient voltage. This doesn't tell you what the problem is but it does tell you you're not connecting the battery to the starter but something is switching on and off. My take on it would be to follow the current path from the battery to across the starter solenoid then to the starter itself. The interruption could be in that path or in the ignition control circuit that powers the solenoid. You have to start somewhere, so pick a spot and work your way around. Things that are "broken" are easier to find than "intermittent" so no doubt you'll zero in on it in short order. I had a similar intermittent problem with my truck years ago and it turned out to be a cube relay with a bad internal solder connection in the under hood fuse/relay box. A new $12 relay cured it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

Thanks for the great info. Hopefully, the intense rain we are having comes to an end next week and I have some help lined up to take another look, in particular the starter and solenoid. Sure hate to have to have this thing towed to Workhorse from the storage facility!

I appreciate your help. -RT