Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-21-2021, 03:13 PM   #1
Member
 
rlcpe's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 59
8.1 stumbling

After almost 4000 miles on our trip, much of which was over poor road conditions in AZ and CA we started home on the last leg. After about 30 miles of substantial shaking our 04 Adventurer W22 , seemed to loose power as well as shift up at low RPM. Where the RPMs we able to get up over 3k, the engine smoothed out and had plenty of power. Due to the record high temperatures in SoCal and AZ we elected to turn two 250 mile days into a 500 mile day and limped home.

This morning I started trying to understand what might have happened. Noting that the tremendous shaking and pounding had caused numerous items to shake loose I thought I'd check out the connections on the engine. As I am no mechanic, I squeezed and shook every connection I could find. I then took the rig for a drive. Wow, it was back running as it had before the issue arose.

I also checked that there were no plug wire insulation issues or signs of overheating.

What do I need to have a mechanic check out as a result of this fun?
rlcpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-21-2021, 03:45 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Seattle,WA/HB,CA./Fujieda-Japan
Posts: 796
Have them check for any codes. Then go from there.



MAF been cleaned lately?
__________________
1994 Southwind Storm 28ft 7.4L TBI w/ 4L80E P-32
71,405 miles and counting...as of 07/16/2021
VIN#1GBJP37N4R3314754
udidwht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 05:22 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
I am far from a mechanic but can tell you that a weak fuel pump caused my '02 W20 8.1L to stumble and shake when the engine got hot. After cooling down, I could drive another hour or so before having to shut it down and cool off again.
__________________
Scott - Pearl River, Louisiana
2018 Jayco Eagle 321RSTS 5er with 2020 F250 7.3L gas.
RottenRalph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 05:35 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Coarsegold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Central Kalifornia
Posts: 464
Checking for codes is a good idea because otherwise you take it in and it runs fine and the tech says seems good to me. Hit and miss problems are a pain. So the problem will return some day and when you least likely want it to happen!
__________________
Take me on and you take on the whole trailer park!
Coarsegold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 07:01 PM   #5
Member
 
rlcpe's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 59
Thanks for the comments. I put a new MAF and fiber air filter on before the trip. I will have a good mechanic check for codes as soon as I can find one.

Anybody recommend a mechanic shop in or near Tucson AZ?
rlcpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2021, 11:32 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Arch Hoagland's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 11,058
Have the plugs and wires ever been replaced?
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
It's so weird being the same age as old people.
Arch Hoagland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 09:08 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Duner's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA ---Back in the house after 7 yrs fulltiming
Posts: 1,503
Based on your symptoms, I suspect you have one or two burnt spark plug wires. The two rear-most wires burn up because of excessive heat and lack of good air flow due to the design of the Winnebago engine shroud area. The wire burns open up right at the connection to the spark plug and you can't see it. It becomes obvious when you pull the wire off the plug, it then breaks completely off.

My first burnt wire showed up when I crossed over some very rough railroad tracks. I actually burnt the wires a month earlier pulling a full load and climbing a 9 mile pass that averages 11% grade. The bumps is what broke the connection open. That happened back in 2007 and when the 2nd wire burnt, then Workhorse installed the "cool air ducts" on both sides of the engine under warranty at no charge.

Here is link to a discussion on burnt wires and photo's I posted 12 yrs ago:
Question about Taylor Wires
__________________
Bill & Helen & Bella (Yorkie/Chihuahua Mix)
Last of the Chieftains, 2004 39T, W22, UP tune, Banks, Koni's, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down, 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/signaturepics/sigpic23522_1.gif]
Duner is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 09:12 AM   #8
Member
 
rlcpe's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 59
How do I tell? I know that it has a Banks System and the headers seem to have plenty of room between them and the wires. I have also "felt" and visually inspected the wires and found nothing unusual.

What is the color of the original plug wires?
rlcpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 09:45 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Duner's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Camarillo, CA ---Back in the house after 7 yrs fulltiming
Posts: 1,503
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlcpe View Post
How do I tell? I know that it has a Banks System and the headers seem to have plenty of room between them and the wires. I have also "felt" and visually inspected the wires and found nothing unusual.

What is the color of the original plug wires?
The original wires are black or maybe gray. If you pull off the wire from plug second from the rear it will probably come off in two pieces if it has been burnt. Don't pull the wire if you don't have a spare or a replacement before you plan to drive the rig.
Since you have Banks headers, the wires may not be burnt because there is more clearance and better cooling. A burnt wire that's causing missing will throw a code for the cylinder that's got the problem. The latest recommended wires to use are stainless steel conductor available here: Magnum's from UltraProducts
__________________
Bill & Helen & Bella (Yorkie/Chihuahua Mix)
Last of the Chieftains, 2004 39T, W22, UP tune, Banks, Koni's, Safe-T-Plus, SMI brake
2017 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid towed 4-down, 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/signaturepics/sigpic23522_1.gif]
Duner is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 12:23 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: oregon
Posts: 520
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlcpe View Post
How do I tell? I know that it has a Banks System and the headers seem to have plenty of room between them and the wires. I have also "felt" and visually inspected the wires and found nothing unusual.

What is the color of the original plug wires?
Make this simple, check your fuel pressure since your rpm limited. If your a DIY Oreileys carries the gauges. Next up would be the plug wires, beyond that a pro needs to get involved. Ohh headers create a great amount of heat and do burn plugs wires right out of nowhere or so it seem's. 8.1 engines are incredible do not mess with it to much...Below is a link that lead you to the fuel pressure port if needed.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/work...to-221025.html
EyezOpen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 02:30 PM   #11
Member
 
cairnclub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 40
ABS light on?

bad wheel sensors can cause the workhorse to downshift early - probably not the case here if you also have reduced power but worth checking to make sure all 4 are seated properly.
__________________
2004 FW Bounder W22
cairnclub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 03:38 PM   #12
Member
 
rlcpe's Avatar
 
Thor Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 59
I had better clarify.

The loss of power was at rpm below 2200.
Also, the transmission shifted up at about 2300 rpm from 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to third.
If I eased off on the gas, it started to clear up and once it hit 3000 rpm, it took off like it normally did.

I did not pull the plug wires off, but did feel all around them and they seemed good. They were a pinkish color so perhaps not the original. I also noted there seemed to be plenty of space between the banks header and the plug wires.

I methodically shook and squeezed every electrical connection I could find, as the shaking and rattling had caused more than one connector in other parts of the RV to have some issues.

After all of the checking and shaking of the connections, I drove the RV and it had all its original power, the shift points were normal for what I was used to, i.e 3500 RPM +/-.

I am now trying to find a competent mechanic in the Tucson area that can check it all out. Just wanting to come up with ideas of what he might be looking for.

I really appreciate all the responses to this problem, as I said, I am not much mechanically inclined on the newer engines. I used to be able to tune my old cars with a matchbook cover in a pinch, but with all the gizmos now....not a chance.

I don't seem to be having a lot of luck on the mechanic in Tucson. I've decided to order a Scangauge2 so I can check the codes myself and maybe become a new mechanic..lol
rlcpe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 04:33 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Seattle,WA/HB,CA./Fujieda-Japan
Posts: 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlcpe View Post
I had better clarify.

The loss of power was at rpm below 2200.
Also, the transmission shifted up at about 2300 rpm from 1st to 2nd and then 2nd to third.
If I eased off on the gas, it started to clear up and once it hit 3000 rpm, it took off like it normally did.

I did not pull the plug wires off, but did feel all around them and they seemed good. They were a pinkish color so perhaps not the original. I also noted there seemed to be plenty of space between the banks header and the plug wires.

I methodically shook and squeezed every electrical connection I could find, as the shaking and rattling had caused more than one connector in other parts of the RV to have some issues.

After all of the checking and shaking of the connections, I drove the RV and it had all its original power, the shift points were normal for what I was used to, i.e 3500 RPM +/-.

I am now trying to find a competent mechanic in the Tucson area that can check it all out. Just wanting to come up with ideas of what he might be looking for.

I really appreciate all the responses to this problem, as I said, I am not much mechanically inclined on the newer engines. I used to be able to tune my old cars with a matchbook cover in a pinch, but with all the gizmos now....not a chance.

I don't seem to be having a lot of luck on the mechanic in Tucson. I've decided to order a Scangauge2 so I can check the codes myself and maybe become a new mechanic..lol
That seems TPS (Throttle position sensor) related.
__________________
1994 Southwind Storm 28ft 7.4L TBI w/ 4L80E P-32
71,405 miles and counting...as of 07/16/2021
VIN#1GBJP37N4R3314754
udidwht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2021, 09:01 AM   #14
Member
 
kstateaddict's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 85
RICPE................... I experienced similar problems as you with our 2002 Adventurer. I tried everything... MAF sensor replacement, O2 sensor replacement etc. Most of you have done the same. This is what I've found. The problem ALWAYS occurred on long trips and especially when going up long hills. Going up hills or mountain passes for several miles there would be a hiccup with the engine followed by a check engine light . {P0 132 ) It would still run but barely. We limped home to Tucson and took it to the repair shop the next day. The fix.... replaced O2 sensor and reset the computer . Problem solved. I thought using low octane gas in Texas and New Mexico was causing the problem. Two weeks later we headed out again to Moab in Utah and going up a very long upgrade the same thing happened again. We limped up to a Loves station at the top of the hill and still thinking that I had a gas problem bought several bottles of Octane booster and reset the computer. I restarted it and it ran great. While driving I was wondering how eliminating the code in the computer could fix it since the gas additive couldn't have worked that fast. Since then I've had the same thing happen and resetting the computer has always corrected the problem. Something else that I've discovered.... several times it felt like I had lost power but no check engine light. Resetting the computer fixed that as well. This year I've replaced the Spark Plugs and wires from Ultra RV and will see if that helps on the years trip. Hopes this info helps a little.
__________________
2002 Winnebago Adventurer W20 8.1
2010 Ford Edge Toad
64 Fairlane Thunderbolt Tribute
kstateaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
engine stumbling/backfiring Deano56 Vintage RV's 24 04-03-2017 04:25 PM
Generator stumbling/searching for idle. jknox Toy Haulers Discussion 4 02-23-2015 11:42 PM
I am - and have been stumped - '93 Class C stumbling rgnprof Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 55 04-03-2012 08:12 AM
New Member stumbling in... Full.Monte New Member Check-In 5 07-31-2011 05:42 AM
V-10 engine stumbling wilhunt Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 7 11-04-2009 09:40 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.