8.1 Water Pump Poll: How Long Did Your Original Water Pump Last?

[Isaac-1]

My spare water pump is marked 18-1589 Workhorse 88893907 paid $55 for it NOS in shelf worn box on ebay.

[coopcolt]

Issc, interesting your pump is marked 18-1589. (was that on box)
And my new pump has on the casting 1589C......coopcolt

When I was in the work a day world, the letter was revision or
update, mo-better latest and greatest! But things change.

[garyspang]

2003 Sightseer, 30b, Have driven it over 175000 miles and no issues with the water pump. Had to replace the belt tensioner idler and belt once.

[Isaac-1]

I will try to check the box tomorrow, having a tropical storm pass about 10 miles away tonight

[onlakegaston]

Originally Posted by onlakegaston

2003 coachmen w22 - 45,000 on original - no problems

Jim

Well 2000 miles after this post my water pump seized and shredded my serpentine belt - sat on the side of the highway for 4 hours waiting for a tow. Had the pump and all hoses replaced.

Jim

[coopcolt]

onlakegaston, one of my greatest fears, 500 miles from nowhere and
I am dropped of at the nearest garage. As I have had a mechanic look
me in the eye and say"HOW FAR ARE YOU FROM HOME BOY"???
I had to assume that ever 100 miles the price goes up 10%!

So what was the cost of your adventure and did they have any trouble
finding the water pump and associated components?.....coopcolt

[boatman10]

with multiple bearing sets........premature failure is rare but not unheard of.......

[onlakegaston]

Originally Posted by coopcolt

onlakegaston, one of my greatest fears, 500 miles from nowhere and
I am dropped of at the nearest garage. As I have had a mechanic look
me in the eye and say"HOW FAR ARE YOU FROM HOME BOY"???
I had to assume that ever 100 miles the price goes up 10%!

So what was the cost of your adventure and did they have any trouble
finding the water pump and associated components?.....coopcolt

coopcolt, total cost including all new hoses was $1550.00. They had no problems finding parts as there was a Chevy dealer that still does Workhorse parts nearby - getting them delivered was a different story and caused another full day delay.
Owner and mechanics were very nice - only problem I had with them was when they moved the coach to a different spot to work on it they ripped off the passenger side rear compartment door which is another story.



Jim

[vettenuts]

I kept my original water pump and found a place in Oregon that will rebuild it using heavier duty parts than original. Thinking of sending it to him and then keeping as a spare.

[ktoutoor]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcrKZbW-ueY&t=

[onlakegaston]

Ok, so after my water pump replacement and correcting the fan shroud that was not attached properly my fan now kicks in high at around 200* and stops at around 185*. Prior to this it kicked in at around 210* and back off at around 200*. My question is this an indication that a failure is immanent? The fan and clutch were not replaced and the fan still feels like it did when spinning it by hand when we first got it 5 years ago.

Thanks,

Jim

[onlakegaston]

Originally Posted by ktoutoor

ktoutoor, Thanks for all of your informative videos!

[ktoutoor]

Watch this Video note the deference between a good and bad clutch fan and compare to yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arVkjHR1PSA

[lonfu]

Originally Posted by onlakegaston

Ok, so after my water pump replacement and correcting the fan shroud that was not attached properly my fan now kicks in high at around 200* and stops at around 185*. Prior to this it kicked in at around 210* and back off at around 200*. My question is this an indication that a failure is immanent? The fan and clutch were not replaced and the fan still feels like it did when spinning it by hand when we first got it 5 years ago.

Thanks,

Jim

I installed a mechanical gage to my heater coolant line right at the engine before the valve. I struggled with my engine temp for several years to keep it under 200. I found that there are several factors. first, I'd suggest your replace your thermostat with a 180 degree unit. that means that it begins to open at 180* and fully opens at 195*, it will help to keep the temp down in hot weather and keep your clutch from engaging as often. I suspect that the factory units are 180* units, mine was unmarked but runs the same as a 180* aftermarket unit.

Second, not all fan clutchs are the same. The temps on some are set to go on earlier, there are several temp ranges that will fit your coach and engine. In my opinion, when your coolant temp hits 200 it is too high.

I went through 4 brand new fan clutchs before I finally got one that would work correctly. Napa, autozone and a AC delco. 3 of them failed in less than 3000 miles..... The 2nd time around from autozone finally worked. They do not test these things before they ship them out. Sooooo.... you may have to go trough several before you get one that works right. I don't remember what temps it kicks at, but it keeps my engine coolant at 192 degrees unless stressed by excessive ambient, 115* then it can get to 199* when climbing or idling with the AC on and towing.

Lastly, my AC system has an factory electric fan in front of the condensor coil. I had to put a switch on the electric fan because I found that when the electric fan would cycle on when the AC was engaged the fan clutch would disengage and the engine temp would rise. Found that with the electric fan turned off the engine fan and clutch was more than enough to keep the AC working correctly and cool the engine. The electric AC fan does nothing to help cool the engine coolant. I found this to be true especially when in high ambient temps here in the desert.

So, in my opinion, yes... replace your fan clutch... but... be careful because replacing it does not mean you will get the correct unit and it will function correctly... you may have to go through several units to get one that works correctly. A shop will just pass it off as "that is the way it is suppose to be".