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ktoutoor · 09-09-2019, 08:03 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03nw2BOitOk

onlakegaston · 09-09-2019, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ktoutoor

Watch this Video note the deference between a good and bad clutch fan and compare to yours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arVkjHR1PSA

Thanks for the video - my fan spins like the new one you installed - maybe 1/3 of a revolution with a hard spin.
My worry is that maybe the shredded serpentine belt somehow damaged the spring on the front of the fan clutch.

Jim

onlakegaston · 09-09-2019, 08:48 AM

Again thanks for the video - I have installed a fail safe 180* thermostat.

onlakegaston · 09-09-2019, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonfu

I installed a mechanical gage to my heater coolant line right at the engine before the valve. I struggled with my engine temp for several years to keep it under 200. I found that there are several factors. first, I'd suggest your replace your thermostat with a 180 degree unit. that means that it begins to open at 180* and fully opens at 195*, it will help to keep the temp down in hot weather and keep your clutch from engaging as often. I suspect that the factory units are 180* units, mine was unmarked but runs the same as a 180* aftermarket unit.

Second, not all fan clutchs are the same. The temps on some are set to go on earlier, there are several temp ranges that will fit your coach and engine. In my opinion, when your coolant temp hits 200 it is too high.

I went through 4 brand new fan clutchs before I finally got one that would work correctly. Napa, autozone and a AC delco. 3 of them failed in less than 3000 miles..... The 2nd time around from autozone finally worked. They do not test these things before they ship them out. Sooooo.... you may have to go trough several before you get one that works right. I don't remember what temps it kicks at, but it keeps my engine coolant at 192 degrees unless stressed by excessive ambient, 115* then it can get to 199* when climbing or idling with the AC on and towing.

Lastly, my AC system has an factory electric fan in front of the condensor coil. I had to put a switch on the electric fan because I found that when the electric fan would cycle on when the AC was engaged the fan clutch would disengage and the engine temp would rise. Found that with the electric fan turned off the engine fan and clutch was more than enough to keep the AC working correctly and cool the engine. The electric AC fan does nothing to help cool the engine coolant. I found this to be true especially when in high ambient temps here in the desert.

So, in my opinion, yes... replace your fan clutch... but... be careful because replacing it does not mean you will get the correct unit and it will function correctly... you may have to go through several units to get one that works correctly. A shop will just pass it off as "that is the way it is suppose to be".

My understanding is the standard thermostat installed in these 8.1 motors is a 195* stat.
I have read on more than 1 occasion that the "Normal" operating temp in the case of the 8.1L engine ranges from 195° to 224°
My concern is could the fan clutch have been damaged by the shredded belt that wrapped around it.

Starsekr · 09-10-2019, 01:43 AM

Just over 50K miles. Pump failed, seized up, did not shred belt. 117Deg F day, on a hill and by the time I pulled over it was warped heads and a cracked piston sleeve. $$,$$$ and 30 days later we are on the road tomorrow.

ktoutoor · 09-10-2019, 09:01 AM

Starsekr :: Did you have the old engine rebuilt ? Did you get a short block ? Was the parts hard to locate ? In hindsight was there anything you could have done different to safe the engine ? How did they remove the engine ? Got any pictures ?

CJ7365 · 09-10-2019, 05:48 PM

I would like to know how hot your engine got also? Did you have a "real" temp gauge (Scan gauge or similar)

Would also be interested in what Kevin asked.

akpd · 09-11-2019, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

.

I can't count the number of these gaskets I have changed.Usually a customer comes in and says so and so found his water pump was leaking. I have only changed the pump on a couple Chevrolet LS type engines because the pump itself was bad.
Lynn

Hard to beat an LS, but I bet you have replaced a bunch of intake gaskets on them.

boatman10 · 09-11-2019, 05:45 AM

very rare for a water pump to seize up without the bearing getting loose first and taking out the seal, initiating a coolant leak.

since the pump seized but did not shred the belt you would think there was some squealing going on there, signaling a problem.

but apparently not.

I'm a bad gauge watcher...even with the scan gauge...I'm going to get an audible alarm......I have them on my boat......I have a temp sender and a flow 'gate' on the boat[but of course that's in the saltwater line]......Aqualarm.

their sender is set at 200deg F too low for us....I remember on the boat because of where I put it[on water cooled exhaust manifold] I had to insulate a little to get it to come on only when it needed to.
https://aqualarm.net/exhaust-engine-...0485c7ced11544