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Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 06:06 AM

First off, I want to thank the many people that post answers on this forum. I've been a member for some time and have had countless questions answered through the search function without actually asking the question.

But this time, I'm going to ask the question out of an abundance of caution. I've read through many threads on here related to overheating, fan clutches, etc. and think I have a game plan, but before I jump in with both feet, I would like to double check my logic.

I'm currently on vacation in Colorado. As shown in my signature line, I have a 2002 36' Dolphin on the W22 Workhorse with the 8100 and Allison Tranny. I flat tow a 98 Jeep TJ and have done so with no troubles for many miles and mountain passes until yesterday. I very quickly started having overheating problems. I've not seen a single warning light on the dash for engine or tranny temp, but the temp gauge was well above normal, so I pulled over and shut it down as quickly as I could each time. It did boil over on me once because there wasn't any place to "pull over", but it appeared to run fine after it cooled off. It took a little while to figure out what was happening because it didn't seem tied to slope, speed, or anything logical. But here's what I have seen...

I suspect the fan clutch as the culprit because it seems to lock up immediately on start up (which would be normal), but it doesn't release very shortly like it should and will roar constantly for 15-30 minutes/miles. Motor runs nice and cool during this time obviously (stays right at the 210 mark), but after this 15-30 minutes/miles then the clutch releases and won't come on at all regardless what the temp gauge reads. If you let the motor cool off for several hours, the process starts over again. I'm a slow learner, so I had to go through this cycle a few times before the pieces started to make sense.

Now I'm at a friend's house where I can safely dive in and fix what needs fixed. I'm going to replace the fan clutch assembly, the fan shroud (I noticed it is cracked in several places), and fan shroud side seals (one is missing). I'm also going to carefully backwash the radiator fins with water while everything is apart and I can spray water through the radiators from the rear toward the front, to hopefully clean out any debris and bugs caught in there. While investigating all of this, I also discovered one of the 2 electric auxiliary fans on the front of the radiator pack wasn't functioning any more, so I'll replace it with the Hayden 3680 while I'm at it (another tip picked up from here and Oemy's website, thank you all).

But I'm torn about what additional steps to take to get safely back on the road and back home (500 miles). I don't want to make a mess on my friend's RV pad or over stay my welcome. But if you've ever driven across Western Kansas you know there's not much out there for big towns or RV service centers, and I will have some time to kill while waiting on overnighted parts from Workhorse.

The water pump doesn't show any signs of leaking, and hoses look to be in good shape. I'll dive into a coolant flush, new hoses, and thermostat when I get home, it's overdue for a coolant flush anyway. I should have done that before this trip, but ran out of time. I'll probably pick up the hoses and extra coolant to carry with me on the way home just in case, probably should have had them with me this whole time. Depending on how it acts with the new clutch assembly and other mentioned work, I can readjust my to-do list when the RV is safely back on it's home pad. But anything I "need" to take a look at or do now?

Thoughts or suggestions? Thank you and I hope you are having a great week!

Dave

vettenuts · 09-05-2019, 06:25 AM

Sounds like a good plan. My side piece was missing on the passenger side of my radiator as well, and I made new ones and fastened them to the shroud. A pain to install and remove, but they work well. Also, some of the earlier chassis didn’t have screws fastening the lower shroud to the metal support. This allow the shroud to move and damage the fan. Might want to check that as well. The fan clutch is Workhorse specific. Note the torque values for reassembly. I also used a small piece of plywood and laid it against the radiator while removing the fan assembly so any slips wouldn’t accidentally damage the radiator. You can rent the tools for fan clutch removal from Autozone. I rented this to hold the clutch along with a 36mm wrench.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ool/409637_0_0

Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettenuts

Sounds like a good plan. My side piece was missing on the passenger side of my radiator as well, and I made new ones and fastened them to the shroud. A pain to install and remove, but they work well. Also, some of the earlier chassis didn’t have screws fastening the lower shroud to the metal support. This allow the shroud to move and damage the fan. Might want to check that as well. The fan clutch is Workhorse specific. Note the torque values for reassembly. I also used a small piece of plywood and laid it against the radiator while removing the fan assembly so any slips wouldn’t accidentally damage the radiator. You can rent the tools for fan clutch removal from Autozone. I rented this to hold the clutch along with a 36mm wrench.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ool/409637_0_0

Ordering all the parts through Workhorse this morning and fingers crossed for overnight shipping that works. Good points on the lower shroud fastening and the plywood protection for the radiator, I'll add those to the planning, thank you. I've got the clutch removal tool rental on my list as well.

edgray · 09-05-2019, 08:05 AM

CHEVYGUY: it seeems to me you have figured out the likely causes (multiple) of your recent overheating issues, and I think doing ALL of the things you have planned is what it should take to eliminate re-occurence. I have only 2 suggestions. First, until you do the radiator flush and refill, make sure the radiator is completely full by removing the actual cap and looking inside. IF the level got low enough, the overflow jug "process" will not work as designed, and lead to a false assumtion that all is well. Here is a link to more about that: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/how-t...rks-56633.html

Second, consider using an OBD II reader to monitor the water temp and other functions because the dash temp "gage" is notorious for being inaccurate. It MAY not apply to your 2002 chassis, but "most" of the W series clusters were programmed to always show "normal", rather than act as a truly linear temp indicator.
You've got a lot to do, but sounds like your plan is excellent. Good luck.

dieselclacker · 09-05-2019, 08:41 AM

To Ed’s advice above, I would also add, don’t use more than a 50/50 mix of coolant and water when you replenish the coolant after completing the fan coupling replacement. Too much anti-freeze can cause an overheating condition.

Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edgray

CHEVYGUY: it seeems to me you have figured out the likely causes (multiple) of your recent overheating issues, and I think doing ALL of the things you have planned is what it should take to eliminate re-occurence. I have only 2 suggestions. First, until you do the radiator flush and refill, make sure the radiator is completely full by removing the actual cap and looking inside. IF the level got low enough, the overflow jug "process" will not work as designed, and lead to a false assumtion that all is well. Here is a link to more about that: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/how-t...rks-56633.html

Second, consider using an OBD II reader to monitor the water temp and other functions because the dash temp "gage" is notorious for being inaccurate. It MAY not apply to your 2002 chassis, but "most" of the W series clusters were programmed to always show "normal", rather than act as a truly linear temp indicator.
You've got a lot to do, but sounds like your plan is excellent. Good luck.

I saw that coolant overflow reservoir flow thread, very informative, and something I'm keeping an eye on closely now. I'm also getting the ScanGauge2 from Ultra RV Products so I can keep a closer eye on temperatures. I'm particularly interested in the coolant and transmission temperatures at this point, but it sounds like that setup will allow monitoring of much more useful data points. Thank you.

Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselclacker

To Ed’s advice above, I would also add, don’t use more than a 50/50 mix of coolant and water when you replenish the coolant after completing the fan coupling replacement. Too much anti-freeze can cause an overheating condition.

For now, I'm just going to add distilled water to "top off". But when I flush and refill, I'll make sure no more than 50% coolant. It doesn't get real cold in Kansas, but I don't want to be worrying about it or risk forgetting to up it later either.

edgray · 09-05-2019, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevyguy1973

I saw that coolant overflow reservoir flow thread, very informative, and something I'm keeping an eye on closely now. I'm also getting the ScanGauge2 from Ultra RV Products so I can keep a closer eye on temperatures. I'm particularly interested in the coolant and transmission temperatures at this point, but it sounds like that setup will allow monitoring of much more useful data points. Thank you.

The SG II is the best, IMO. Programming the "X-gages" to display TFT and some others is a PITA, but once done you'll get lots of meaningful info.

tmw188 · 09-05-2019, 02:56 PM

It’s a really nice monitor.

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Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 05:56 PM

Quickish update.

- Got the old fan and clutch, upper and lower shroud, and spacers removed. -- Verified they both worked, and wired the two electric fans into a switch activated relay so I can turn them on when I want.
- Flushed the radiators with the garden hose from the backside, lots of gunk came out but not as much as I expected.
- Parts were ordered from Workhorse this morning and I confirmed the order processed for next day delivery this afternoon.
- Scan Gauge will be here tomorrow as well.
- I ordered the upper radiator hose and it'll be here in the AM, but no one could get the lower hose in less than a few days, so I'll have to track it down when I get home.
- New radiator cap for good measure
- I picked up a new thermostat as well just in case. It's a CARQUEST 14948 - 186 degree stat and tested it in hot water to check opening temp. I'm debating putting it in while I wait for parts. I know the 180 stat is said to reduce gas mileage and a lot of other things. Would the same hold true for a 186 stat over the stock 195? I guess it would logically. Thoughts?
Otherwise, now I sit and wait for FedEx...

tmw188 · 09-05-2019, 06:41 PM

Doesn’t it call for a 195*?

Chevyguy1973 · 09-05-2019, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmw188

Doesn’t it call for a 195*?

It does

akpd · 09-06-2019, 05:54 AM

When you get the scan gauge installed perhaps check to make sure you're not running lean on fuel making it run hot, MAF sensor cleaned? FYI the threads on the 36mm fan nut are left handed, you may already know that.

vettenuts · 09-06-2019, 07:46 AM

Needed to get to my desktop to post this. Here is a thread on my side seals. I made new ones and keep the one remaining stock side seal in my spare parts bin in the basement.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/check...ls-405476.html

When the time comes for the water pump, I bought two bolts of the same thread and cut off the heads. I then filed a screwdriver slot in the end so they can be turned. I use these to hold the gaskets and then slide the pump in place, install the lower bolts enough to keep the gasket from moving and then replace the studs with the upper bolts. Makes it much easier because the pump is heavy and there isn't a lot of room to get it in place.