'96 p30 obd

[n0ukf]

My '97 Winnebago Adventurer 34 ('96 Chevy P30 chassis with 7.4l TBI) has an OBD port by the steering column but I can't get a Bluetooth reader to work on it. First this is because it has no pin 16 to supply power (just 5, 6 & 9). Does anyone know if adding this pin (connected to IGN) should be enough to get useful readings?

[Hufficon]

Port 16 should be Battery+ mine is always hot. I would think the pin should be present. It is in the OBD II specs. If it is missing other wiring on the port would be suspect to me.

[Charlie 5320]

Originally Posted by n0ukf

My '97 Winnebago Adventurer 34 ('96 Chevy P30 chassis with 7.4l TBI) has an OBD port by the steering column but I can't get a Bluetooth reader to work on it. First this is because it has no pin 16 to supply power (just 5, 6 & 9). Does anyone know if adding this pin (connected to IGN) should be enough to get useful readings?

That's probably because it may be obd l. 96 was the change over year and many coachs were still obd l. My buddies 96 Storm has a obd ll connection but it is wired as a obd l , and has obd l PCM in it. His chassis is a 95. You need to verify what chassis you have for sure. My buddy has a snapon reader and it won't talk to the PCM because he has no way to tell it, it is a 95 with an obd l PCM with a obd ll connector. My Mack tools reader will adapt to it and I can tell it what chassis it is and it will talk to the PCM. Stranger things happen in the MH world.

OBD l has no power wire to the connector.

[billgallivan]

Obd1 can usually be read with a test lite

[Charlie 5320]

Originally Posted by billgallivan

Obd1 can usually be read with a test lite

Only if it has a stored code. OBD l also has live data that can be accessed with a diagnostic tool, like Mack and snapon.

[n0ukf]

Any opinions on whether a bluetooth reader might read it if I can get power added to the plug?

[kennyrodgers]

Don't know if it helps you any but I use aldl droid on our 94 Southwind.
They might have adaptors that will fit your coach but not sure.
It works a treat for me, I can live monitor everything I need to on an old Samsung Tablet. Good luck with it.
https://www.aldldroid.com/

[udid]

Originally Posted by kennyrodgers

Don't know if it helps you any but I use aldl droid on our 94 Southwind.
They might have adaptors that will fit your coach but not sure.
It works a treat for me, I can live monitor everything I need to on an old Samsung Tablet. Good luck with it.
https://www.aldldroid.com/

You happen to have the ADX file for the 1994 Chevy P30? And how about an adapter to connect to the diagnostic port?

[Soppy]

You have a newer version of the Obd1 . I made a cable for mine and it would not read the data. The cable worked on my 88 and 89 vehicles. Your ObdII will not be able to read the data. There was a transition period between 94 to 97.

[kennyrodgers]

Originally Posted by udidwht

You happen to have the ADX file for the 1994 Chevy P30? And how about an adapter to connect to the diagnostic port?

Hi.
I have the file, it's A219 if you have the list.
I think I could attach it in an email if you want to pm me your address.
As for the adapter, I use the one that came with aldl droid.
Cheers,
Pete.

[Houdoxi71]

If you can reflash your device, and have the obd 2 port, but the pins are wrong, they can be moved. But it will come as a shock to the next owner, I'd document the changes.

Posted this earlier for another reason.

[jcgribks]

You need to take it to a dealer. I had to take my 96 Itasca P30 454 TBI to my local RV dealer and he was able to read it. You need a reader that has its own power and doesn’t need to be powered by what vehicle you hook it too. We have what GM calls a bastard OBD as it’s a cross between the OBD I and OBD II. It’s has as others said has a OBD I computer but the newer OBD II plugin.

[Charlie 5320]

Originally Posted by Houdoxi71

If you can reflash your device, and have the obd 2 port, but the pins are wrong, they can be moved. But it will come as a shock to the next owner, I'd document the changes.

Posted this earlier for another reason.

Moving the wires on the port is a very GOOD way to FRY the ecm.
The PO needs to verify what ecm he has before doing anything else. Take the numbers off of the ecm and verify what it is for sure. Buying the CORRECT reader is going to be the cheapest way to go, much cheaper than a ECM.

[Houdoxi71]

Originally Posted by Charlie 5320

Moving the wires on the port is a very GOOD way to FRY the ecm.
The PO needs to verify what ecm he has before doing anything else. Take the numbers off of the ecm and verify what it is for sure. Buying the CORRECT reader is going to be the cheapest way to go, much cheaper than a ECM.

Most folks are only after the data stream and a +/- voltage point for their device (tach, temps,codes). The act of moving the pins themselves will do nothing to the ECM, only when another device is applied, such as a full pin equipped code reader, could cause damage.

Transition year vehicles are sometimes a pain, esp if a solution can't be found. I suggested documentation for a reason. This was commonly done years ago for custom setups, before writable devices came into play.

Not arguing, not flaming, just pointing it out. My included graphic was from a GM forum, that was dealing with the same issue. The page did date back to 2009 though, they were trying to get power to the connector, without grounding through a downline device.

The solution they had was to run power to a new set of pins in the oe locations, and power those with a toggle, then use a handheld that had OBD1 capability, but an OBD2 plug. This was done to cut power to a handheld, without the need to remove the device from the plug/vehicle when not in use.

I should have been more clear, my apologies.